There were some new glass fish sculptures in the pond which glistened in the sunlight.

Yet again, I’d a wonderful day out at Cragside. You can see all my Flickr photos here. If you’re in Northumberland, I recommend that you visit this lovely English garden.

Dahlias & Fish Sculptures at Cragside House Gardens, Northumberland

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Photo by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

This Art Hotel is a little gem in a perfect landscape. The hotel is an art gallery of the very best kind, meaning that your hotel room is a piece of art in itself. And you can’t fail to be impressed by the fact your bathroom has a shower like a carwash, or that you’ve got a giant sculpture in your room. Or the door opens like a drawbridge (that was my favourite). There’s even a room that’s based on a camera shutter, with a balcony all around the outside. It’s utterly wonderful.

You pick the room you’d like to stay in on your first night, and then the next day? You move. And the next, and the next. This stops someone renting out one of the art rooms for their entire stay, and gives you an entirely different experience each night. Of course, you can’t guarantee that every single room will be free (getting an early start will help that), but all of the rooms have something special about them.

Then there’s the restaurant. Overlooking the bay, I literally sat there for hours. Mostly because the beer was cheap and my boyfriend’s flight had been delayed, but honestly, I don’t think I’d have moved anywhere. Warm, peaceful, and utterly beautiful. Why would I want to go anywhere else? That said, unless you’ve hired a car (it was with said boyfriend), you can’t really go anywhere. There’s a very small strip of restaurants, but you either need to hop on the train or drive around.

And you should drive around, because there are about 20 sculptures dotted around the local area as well. You’ll need a few hours and a map to find them all, but it’s a lovely drive and you’ll see some stunning countryside. Make sure you pop into the gallery in the hotel too. Or, find yourself ‘borrowing’ on of their arty plates when your boy sneaks breakfast into the hotel room. Ahem.

The downsides to the hotel? Well, there might be a little beach, but it isn’t sandy. Which is a shame. But it’s yours. And so tiny you’ll probably only have to share with three other people. I learnt to swim in that sea, I didn’t really care about sand. And the hotel is pretty old, so it’s rough around the edges. One of the hotel rooms needed some serious work doing to it. And don’t, whatever you do, go for dinner at the restaurant right at the end of the bay. Not if you want your evening ruined by bad service and awful food. Luckily the service and food and the hotel is excellent.

And as prices for an art room tend to come it less than €100 (and much less if you go off peak), I can forgive them their downfalls. I adore it here. I want to stay in every single room. This is a really special hotel and I don’t think I could take another trip to Sicily without coming back to the Atelier Sul Mare . In fact, I might just go and check out the flight prices to Palermo now.

Atelier Sul Mare, Sicily’s Art Hotel

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A friend who is planning a trip to France recently called to ask if I knew anything about Peugeot’s “Buy Back” program. I didn’t, but was intrigued, so I did a bit of research so I could help him with his travel arrangements. He called me yesterday from France to report that his Peugeot “Buy Back” experience went swimmingly, so I decided to pass the information on to the readers at EuropeUpClose.com.

Here’s the deal:
A Non- European Union citizen traveling to France for more than 17 days is eligible to purchase a brand new Peugeot, drive it during your vacation (as you would a rental car) and then sell the car back to the dealership.

If you are arriving at Charles de Gaulle airport, there is a Peugeot dealer nearby that will sell you one. Another option is to request to be picked up at the airport/train station/hotel to go to the nearest dealership.

What’s in it for the dealership? In France (as well as throughout Europe), there is a Value Added  Tax (VAT) that makes luxury purchases (like a car) very expensive…20% more expensive, to be exact. If dealerships sell cars that are “slightly-used,” it saves the new owner this 20% tax. Individuals who are not citizens of the European Union are not required to pay this tax, however. So, the Peugeot dealer sells you the car (without VAT) for at least 17 days, you sell it back, and then the dealership sells it to an E.U. citizen or to a rental company (with no VAT, thanks to the fact that it is pre-owned).

Price-wise, it is often less expensive to do this program than it is to rent a car. It is in the dealership’s best interest that the car is well taken care of while in the possession of its first owner, so they offer zero deductable insurance coverage and a 24-hour service hotline. In the best case scenario, everyone benefits from this program.

Positive aspects of the “Peugeot Buy Back” program:
•    You get to drive a brand new Peugeot
•    The car is fully insured (zero deductible) and you have 24/7 breakdown coverage in case anything goes wrong
•    You only have to be 18 to participate in the buy back program (versus most car rentals that require the primary driver to be at least 21)
•    You can pick up and drop off the car in different cities within France
•    You can return the car without filling up the gas tank

Other things to consider:
•    You need to have the car for at least 17 days
•    The car will usually come to you with very little fuel in it, so be sure to locate a gas station near the pick-up location
•    You will be charged extra for pick-up or drop-off outside of France

Sound good? Check it out at AutoEurope for more information.

Croaghaun is the third highest sea cliff in Europe, though it’s sloped so I’m not sure you’d want to jump.  It’s the second highest mountain in Ireland, and many say this is the most untouched piece of land in Western Europe.

To hike the mountain – which isn’t a terrible hike, at least relative to mountains elsewhere in the world of similar height – isn’t like you can rock up to the car park and stroll up to the top.  Nor can you even see the cliffs without hiking to them, unless you get a  boat to take you there.  The nearest access point is Keem Beach, pictured above.

County Mayo, where you’ll find this gorgeous beach, also has a lot of other fun sightseeing.  Megalithic tombs, abbeys showing off Irish gothic architecture, and wildlife watching.  The biggest town is Ballina, which holds a popular street festival in July which makes a great time to come for a visit. You can find the best deals at hotels in Ballina using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Mountainviews has some great tips for how to get to the top of the Cliffs of Croaghaun – and how to get back, more importantly – all in one piece. Don’t forget to bring lunch!

Big Cliffs in Croaghaun, County Mayo Ireland

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British Airways plane at Glasgow Airport by Bob the courier

Glasgow Airport Accommodation

The Holiday Inn is less than a one minute walk from the terminal building.  You can check in from 2pm and checkout deadline is 12pm.The hotel receives an average guest rating of  76% from 280 verified reviews.  The price was £49 for room only.

The Express by Holiday Inn is a two minute walk from the airport terminal through covered walkways. A buffet breakfast, served from 6am – 10am is included in the room price.  Check in is from 2pm and latest check out is 11am.  The hotel receives an average guest rating of  76% from 411 verified reviews. The price was £49 including breakfast.

The Premier Inn is situated 400 metres from the airport on the other side of the motorway.  You could walk to the terminal in 5 – 10 minutes but if you have heavy bags or it’s raining, there’s a shuttle bus which costs £1 per adult each way. Check in is available from 2pm and latest check out is 12pm.  The hotel receives 84% from 78 verified reviews.  The price was £37 room only.

Ramada Glasgow Airport lies a 500 metres from the terminal building but there is a shuttle bus which costs £2 per person each way. Check in is from 2pm and check out by 12pm at latest.  There’s free wifi in the lounge. The average guest rating is 78% based on 247 verified reviews. The price for £45  for room only.

Parking Options

Some hotels will also include parking for up to 15 days either in a fly-park room rate or on payment of a supplement.  This may be a cheaper option than arranging parking directly with a car park provider.  However when comparing costs, remember to factor in any costs for getting to and from the terminal if transfers aren’t included in the hotel car parking rates, as transfers are generally included in the price quoted by car parks.

Glasgow Airport by maxf

Which Glasgow Airport accommodation would I choose?

If I had to check in for my flight after 6.30am, I’d book the Express by Holiday Inn as the price of £49 includes breakfast and it’s a short weatherproofed walk to the terminal. I’ve stayed at several Express by Holiday Inns and although the rooms have been on the small side, they’re comfortable and the self service breakfast is really good.  If I had a check in before 6.30am, I’d go for the Premier Inn for £37 room only. I’ve stayed in several Premier Inns and the rooms are usually fairly spacious and comfy.

Have you stayed at any of these Glasgow Airport hotels, how would you rate them?

The best Glasgow Airport hotels

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Although we have traveled to Europe more than 40 times, this was our first trip to Spain. We were delighted with the invitation, and we decided to add an extra week to our trip so we could visit Barcelona. We are so glad we made this trip. Spain is so different from the other places we have been to in Europe, that we were constantly surprised by the unique architecture, the abundance of fresh produce and seafood and the exceptionally friendly people.

Benicassim, which is located on the Costa del Azahar north of Valencia, is a resort town that is a favorite of the British. The FIB (Festival Internacional de Benicassim) Music Festival draws thousands every year, mostly from England. This year the Festival was held July 15 -18 with Kasabian, Vampire Weekend, The Prodigy and Gorillaz as headliners. But there were scores more bands performing on the three stages over the four nights.  The weather, though hot during the day was glorious for this outdoor, nighttime venue.  Next year’s dates for the Benicassim FIB are July 14-17^th.

Our days were spent touring this gorgeous part of Spain and in partaking in long, delicious lunches of tapas and fine wine. One day we drove to the Medieval, walled city of Morella. The drive to Morella was memorable in itself. We drove on some one-lane roads up and down the El Maestrat region’s mountains. The mountains were terraced centuries ago and are still used for agriculture today.  There are several viewpoints along the way, where you can get a postcard view of the majestic Morella sitting atop a high outcrop.  We finished the day with a visit to Peniscola, a  fortified town built on a narrow peninsula on the Mediterranean.  This area of Spain, the Castellon, is where the Knights of the Templar lived and fought.

One evening we took a hike on the hills above Benicassim to the ruins of a castle that was once the fortress of the legendary El Cid. It was a 5k hike that was led by a young historian, which made the hike all the more interesting and fun.  The memory of watching the dramatic sunset from the castle grounds still stays with me.

Although Valencia itself was not on the agenda, we found two days to visit this fantastic, yet overlooked city.  It was truly my favorite city on this trip. Just three hours south of Barcelona by fast train, Valencia, the third largest city in Spain, is so beautiful, it takes my breath away. The buildings have a Moorish influence that distinguishes it from Barcelona and other cities to the north.  And the City of Arts and Sciences, set just outside the old town, is spectacular. Designed by Valencia born architect Santiago Calatrava, the City of Arts and Sciences is a large-scale urban recreation center for culture and science which also incorporates L’Oceanogràfic, an underwater city designed by the late Felix Candela.

We then spent five memorable days in Barcelona, enjoying the Ramblas, the sea, the museums, and the legacy of Gaudi.  The days were quite hot, but walking under the arching plane trees on the Ramblas, with the intermittent breeze from the Mediterranean, made it more tolerable.  The hot days gave way to wonderfully comfortable nights which is when this city comes alive. We can’t wait to go back!

Written By Terri Fogarty and photos by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Cafes in the old part of Naxos

First on my Naxos sightseeing schedule was the Portara which is also the trademark of Naxos. The monumental gates stand on a tiny island connected to Naxos town and the port by a causeway. Built in the 6^th century BC the gates are thought to have belonged to a temple to Apollo which however was never completed. Stone blocks from the unfinished temple were transported and used for other buildings but the gates were just too massive to be moved, so, they still dominate the view and are a must see. t

Portara - gates to the Apollo temple

Be careful though especially if a strong meltemi is blowing which is often the case in summer, I nearly got blown off the causeway but then I weigh only 48 kilos. Waves are crashing against the seawall on either side of the causeway and count on a – rather refreshing – sea water shower on your walk across. The views down the steep cliffs are nearly as amazing as the sight of the gates themselves.

That's what's along the causeway!

Having it made across safely, I had my first refreshment stop in the beautiful café which is tucked in a sheltered niche of the causeway.

Back in Naxos harbour, I made my way along the waterfront and then turned left towards a sign indicating the Old Market. It’s really one of the many access roads to the castle of Marcos Sanudo which is the other trademark of Naxos. Built in 1207 it marked the beginning of the rule of the Venetians over the island which lasted until 1564 when it was conquered by the Ottomans.

Marcos Sanudo's Venetian castle

Exploring the castle and in fact the entire Venetian settlement which covers the hill is a truly unique experience and one of the best things to do in Naxos. It’s uphill but not very steep and broad stone steps make it easy. The Old Market has a lot of wonderful shops, some souvenir, but some with amazing artwork, paintings and antiquities. Much of the way you walk through a tunnel which gives shelter from the summer heat.

Entrance to the Old Market

At every twist and turn Venetian houses with their low entry ways emerge, all inhabited today and many of the mini mansions still in possession of the successors of the original Venetian owners.

I would have loved to visit the Venetian museum, but unfortunately I was too late. Make a note that museums are closed on Monday and on the rest o the week close at 3pm. Some do not open later, but the Venetian museum re-opens at 7.30pm. You can also admire the house of Marcos Sanudo himself, a church at the very top and simply enjoy one fabulous view after another. What I found particularly appealing is that this historical site is not a ‘site’ at all but a richly inhabited part of Naxos town where more than a few studios and apartments are for rent.

I arrived back down on the other end of the promenade where you find a café which offers the richest and most sinful ice cream dishes I have had in a long time.

A well deserved ice cream at the end of the day trip

Exploring the history of the Greek island of Naxos

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Museums are starting to realize the importance of courting their future visitors and, as parents, it’s nice to see how many art museums have started to put together age-appropriate information and activity guides for children.

The Van Gogh Museum (on the left), with the Rijksmuseum in the background

One small museum that gets it right is the Vincent Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Chances are, Van Gogh admirers would take their kids along on a visit  to this excellent museum anyway, but it’s even nicer to know that parents can request the activity guide to make their visit more enjoyable for young children.

Wheatfield with crows, 1890

The activity guide was filled with interesting information and asked children to record their observations about certain artworks and about Van Gogh’s shifting techniques, his use of thick brush strokes and his preference for vibrant colours during his years in southern France.

The bookshop sells an excellent publication for children, Vincent & Theo: Brothers in Art. It is geared towards elementary school and middle-grade readers and chronicles Van Gogh’s struggle as an artist and the special relationship with his brother, Theo.

So on your family visit to Amsterdam, my European travel tip would be to take your kids along to the Van Gogh Museum as it’s a very child friendly Amsterdam attraction.  They will be certain to enjoy it as much as you do.

The Vincent Van Gogh Museum is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Fridays it has extended hours, 10:00-22:00. Adults are 14 euro, children and teenagers under 18 are free.

Child Friendly Amsterdam Attractions: The Van Gogh Museum

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Croatia is situated in the South-eastern part of Europe along the Adriatic Sea. It shares land borders with Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia and Montenegro, and a maritime border with Italy.

The country was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until World War I, and then became a part of Yugoslavia. In 1991, Croatia declared its independence. What followed was the long and brutal Balkan War.

Croatia has long since recovered from its war wounds and most scars. Given its long and sunny coastline, numerous islands, and rich history, the country has developed into a great tourist destination. A visit to Croatia is a treat for the senses, with each region showing a new face, from unspoilt islands to Roman ruins and sprawling vineyards.

Passports & Visas

Passports are required to enter and leave Croatia. Visas are not required for citizens of the US, Canada, Australia, UK and other EU countries for visits of up to 90 days. For longer visits contact the Croatian embassy in your home country. Visitors from other countries require tourist visas to enter the country. You may also be asked to produce a return ticket and other details (proof) of your stay.

Obtaining a US Passport
The US Government Website is where to start.

Visa Information
Contact: Consulate General of Croatia
For local consulates, look under Consulates on the Website

American Offices
Provides consular assistance to US citizens
United States Embassy
2^nd Thomas Jefferson Street
10010
Zagreb
Tel: 385-1-661-2200

General Information

Culture and History of  Croatia
A brief history of Croatia

Currency and Money of Croatia
The official currency of Croatia is the Kuna (1 Kuna = 100 Lipas).

While Euros are accepted by hotels and for large payments, most stores, restaurants and cafes accept payment only in Kunas and by credit card; all major credit cards are accepted, including American Express.

ATMs are widely available across the country. Cash and travelers checks can be exchanged at most banks and currency exchange bureaus. It is advisable to exchange currency locally and preferably at banks, as they offer a better rate of exchange. Banks operate from 8am to 4pm on weekdays.

Driving in Croatia
It is important to pay close attention to all Croatian driving rules. Croatians drive on the right side of the road; headlights are required to be switched on even during the day; at unmarked intersections, the car on the right hand side has right of way. Most road signs are self explanatory and universal.

The speed limit within cities is 50kmph; 90kmph in the outskirts; 110kmph on major roads; and 130kmph along the motorways. Speeding fines must be paid on the spot. Also be warned that the blood alcohol limit is 0.05% and tests are administered frequently by police officers. Fines range from 500 to 3000 HRK.

Traffic can get very congested along the highways and boarder crossings during the summer, especially during the weekends. The highways also run through a number of tunnels. It is advisable to wear sunglasses while driving during the summer.

Electricity in Croatia
Croatian electrical outlets supply 220 volts. This requires the standard 2-point plugs used across Europe. Unless, you come from a country that follows the same measure, it is best to carry a travelling adaptor to ensure all your appliances work properly.

Etiquette in Croatia
Croats are a warm and friendly people. They are very proud of their country, culture and food. However, be sure not to pry for recent war stories. This is still a very sensitive topic in Croatia.

Croatia is a Catholic country, and religion plays a major role in Croatian life. Family is also a very important institution in Croatian society. Many extended families live close together, if not in the same complex.

It is a norm to greet and engage shopkeepers while entering and exiting any commercial establishment. Most people speak English, but learning a few basic Croatian phrases goes a long way. Be sure to respect local beliefs and customs.

Public Hours in Croatia
Most shops work from 9 am to 8 pm on weekdays, and are open from 9 am to 3 pm on Saturdays. During peak tourist season (July-September) stores may be open longer and even on Sundays. Markets are generally open in the mornings, shutting down post lunch.

Safety in Croatia
In general, Croatia is a safe place to visit with low levels of crime. However, it is prudent to follow general travel safety rules: keep your valuables safe, do not travel alone in poorly lit neighborhoods and watch out for pickpockets in tourist areas, especially during festivals and beach parties.

Time Zone
Croatia follows GMT + 1 in winter and GMT + 2 in the summers.

Tipping in Croatia
As a service tax is included in the bill, tipping isn’t obligatory. However, when tipping for good service, the standard tip is around 10 percent at restaurants, and a rounding of the bill or leaving a few coins at cafes.

Toilets
Most restaurants, bars, and malls offer facilities for customers. Additionally, toilets can be found at service stations and mobile toilets are often available at or near toll stations and at highway rest stops.

Weather in Croatia
Croatia experiences two principle climate patterns – Continental within the country’s interior and Mediterranean along the coast.

Inland Croatia experiences a continental climate, with bright, hot summers and temperatures ranging from 20-30°C; and mild to cold winters with temperatures ranging from -5 to 10°C.

The Croatian coast and islands on the other hand enjoy Mediterranean weather, with long hot summers (temperatures are usually in the mid 30s) and mild, rainy winters. The coastal regions experience varied wind patterns throughout the year – the south-easterly Jugo in the autumn; and the Bura and the Maestral, a soothing summer wind.

Main Sights

Overview of the Main Croatian Sights

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia has amazing historical sights to see

Getting Around

Air Transportation
A guide to Croatian Airports

Boat and Ferries
Given the country’s long coastline, ferry services form a vital link in the country’s transportation network, linking the many islands to the mainland. Most ferries along the Adriatic are operated by a company called Jadrolinija (http://www.jadrolinija.hr). Service is year-round on most routes. Transporting cars can be expensive. A number of ferries also run from Italy to Croatia through the year; their frequency is higher during the summers.

Rail
Croatia’s railway network connects all the major inland cities; however, it does not run along the coastline, and popular coastal cities like Dubrovnik cannot be reached by train. You can opt for either the high-speed trains, known as tilting trains (these only run between the major cities) or the regular speed services. The rail system also connects Croatia with countries like Slovenia, Austria, Italy, Hungary, Germany, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Serbia. Railway timetables and other details can be found at the Croatian Rail Website.

Car Rental
Rental cars are available in all major cities and at airports. It is recommended that you book a vehicle online to avail yourself of special offers and discounts. If you are driving to Dubrovnik, you’ll have to pass through Bosnia- Herzegovina. Have the necessary travel documents ready for the border police. Rental companies need to be informed if the car is going to be transported on a ferry.

Taxis
Taxis are widely available in all cities. They can be found outside airports, bus stations, hotels and at taxi stands around the cities. All taxis have an electronic meter. The meter displays a base rate when you commence your trip. This figure increases thereon till you reach the destination.

Buses
Buses are an economical and effective way to travel within Croatia. Tickets are reasonably priced and the buses themselves are comfortable. It is advisable to reserve bus tickets to popular coastal destinations during the summer. Tickets are available at the bus station (and on the bus itself for shorter routes). Seats are assigned during purchase of ticket. You can look up bus timetables at the Autobusni Kododvor website.

Trams
Zagreb’s tram network covers the entire city. You can buy a single ticket or a 24-hour ticket, which is more cost-effective if you will be using the tram more than once.

Health

Tourists traveling to Croatia are not required to take any specific vaccines. However, it is advisable to be immunized against Hepatitis A and typhoid. Tourists need to be wary of conditions like heat exhaustion and heat stroke during the summer. Be sure to stay well hydrated and use plenty of sunscreen.

Croatian medical facilities are of a high standard. Citizens of counties that have signed the Health Care Convention with Croatia receive free medical care. Other tourists are required to have medical insurance.

Lodging

Depending on your needs, you can choose from a number of accommodation options, including: hotels, hostels, villas, apartments, campsites and trailer parks. It is best to make hotel reservation in advance during the summer, as this is peak tourist season. On the other hand, a number of apartments are available to tourists. These are generally clean, comfortable and affordable.

Public Holidays in Croatia

1 January – New Year’s Day
6 January – Epiphany
8 April – Easter Sunday & 9 April- Easter Monday
1 May – Labor Day
7 June – Corpus Christi
22 June – Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
25 June – Statehood Day
5 August – Victory Day and National Thanksgiving Day
15 August – Assumption Day
8 October – Independence Day
1 November – All Saints’ Day
25-26 December – Christmas Holidays

Telephones in Croatia

Public telephones are easy to find in Croatia. These can be operated by using phone cards. Phone cards, of several denominations, are available across the country at newspaper stands and kiosks. You can make both local and international calls using these cards. In addition to phone booths, you can also use public phones at the post office.

Dialing Procedures
The international code for Croatia is + 385. For outgoing calls dial the code (00) and country code.

For calls from the USA or abroad to Croatia, dial the country code (+ 385), followed by the area code (the local area code is related to the area zip code), followed by the phone number. While phoning within Croatia, dial the area code and then the local phone number.

For cell phones: Croatia uses the GSM 900/1800 frequency. This means American phones are not compatible in the region. It is cheaper to buy a local SIM card in Croatia. There are a number of service providers offering economic tariff plans.

Useful Country Codes:
The country code for Croatia is + 385
USA and Canada is +1; UK +44

Emergency Numbers in Croatia
Emergency calls can be made to 112.
Other specific emergency numbers include: Ambulance: 94
Police: 92
In case of car trouble: 987

Returning to the US

Customs, VAT & Duty Free
All travelers, both foreign and domestic, are exempted from customs duty on non-commercial goods. Expensive, technical equipment, however, must be declared when entering Croatia.

If you are traveling with pets, it is essential to produce an International Certificate issued by an official veterinarian. The vaccinations need to be updated and administered at least 15 days before the travel period, but not earlier than six months from the stipulated timeframe.

You are entitled to a VAT refund for goods purchased in Croatia over 500 Kuna. Be sure to ask for a PDV-P form from the point of purchase. Be sure to complete the form and get it stamped. This should be verified by the Croatian Customs service when leaving the country. For further information, consult the Croatia Customs Administration website.