Mini Travel Guides

Berlin is one of the most popular European touristic destinations. But it is also probably the largest European artistic center, full of young (and not so young) people with progressive ideas who are creating, innovating and leading the vanguard trends. There’s always something important going on in Berlin, so forget for a while the TV Tower and the Brandenburg Gate, and make a visit to the core of East Berlin, the place where things are happening.

You won’t need the usual one-day transport pass, as you’ll be going for a nice, long walk around the Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg neighborhoods. Here you can find murals, art houses, veggie food and second-hand clothing shops.

Begin your stroll by meandering through Mühlenstraße where the largest preserved section of the Berlin Wall stands. Coming from Berlin Ostbahnhof station, this can be a nice way of starting the day, setting the stage for what awaits. Where the wall ends, turn right to cross the  Oberbaumbrücke Bridge, stopping for a second to enjoy the nice view and the Molecule Man installation that stands on the river. Once on the other side of River Spree, you are already in Kreuzberg, a place full of excellent bars and cafes. Remember to keep your head up to enjoy the various murals on the walls of the buildings, including some by the great BLU.

Are you hungry already? After a walk through Gorlitzer Park, it’s a good moment for a nice veggie lunch. At Wiener Straße 19, you will find Yellow Sunshine , a vegetarian fast food restaurant with bio products and tofu or seitan hamburgers for a good price.

Now it’s time to cross the river again and head towards Frankfurter Alle, the center of Friedrichshain. But first, make a stop at Revaler str. 99, the site of  The Raw Tempel, a former railroad works and now a huge art complex where music, theater, clubbing and politics live together. Take a moment to look around - to see what is going on, and what’s scheduled for the night.

If you suddenly feel the urge to go shopping, then you’re in luck. On the corner of Frankfurter Alle and Peterburger Strasse you will find Humana, a huge second-hand store. With four floors of second-hand clothes, this shop is tidily organized and items are labeled. You will surely find it hard to leave empty-handed.

Moving up through Peterburger Strasse, you are now in a neighborhood of students and artists, political activists, and squatters. Turn right on Rigaerstrasse to take a look at the squats, painted doors and banners hanging from the windows. If you feel like drinking a beer, there are some small and interesting bars in this area where you can get one for a cheap price.

If you haven’t found any interesting night-time activity at the Raw Temple, it is then time to visit one last spot in the city. Bad news though: you will have to hop on the transport to Mitte; but this place is certainly worth it. Kunsthaus Tacheles is located in the center of the city (if such place exists in Berlin), a huge building squatted during the 90s and which now works as a multi-functional art complex. Cafes, bars, exhibitions, screenings and even a metal workshop are part of what you can find in this five-story building. Get lost in the halls of the place, and finish your day enjoying an experimental installation or underground party. You are experiencing Europe’s avant garde at it’s edgiest!

There is no shortage of tourist attractions in and around Berlin.  It is one of the best places to visit in Europe and one of my favourite Europe destinations.  Even so, sometimes it is nice to get away from the city.  That’s what makes Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam such an excellent Berlin day trip.  The palace is easy to find and accessible by public transportation from Berlin.

Sanssouci, much like Austria’s Schönbrunn considered the Viennese Versailles, is sometimes referred to as the German Versailles.  The palace was built in the Rococo style and used as a summer get-away for Frederick the Great.

Today, Sanssouci Palace tends to be crawling with tourists and is over-priced.  My Europe travel tips is that the expansive gardens are completely free and big enough to get lost in and forget about the crowds.  Depending on the time of year, you can wander down the stairs along the vineyards.

So if you’re looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle of Berlin head for Sanssouci Palace gardens.

Hackesche Höfe, a busy and popular place to shop in Berlin, was designed in the early 18^th century.  It’s not a common site that tourists visit, however it is a bustling area for locals. The rich history of the area might be interesting to tourists so it’s my Europe travel tip for those who want an experience off the beaten path.

The Spandau city commander, Count von Hacke, wanted a market built to extend Berlin’s urban area during the 18^th century.  The apartments surrounding the market became popular and respectable addresses. The tenants were proud of their large complex with eight rear courtyards.

The market progressed after it’s construction and by 1900, the market was a prime example of the Art Nouveau period.  The façade facing Hackescher Markt included a large, round arch and long, skinny windows.  The market included many courtyards and shops with a mixture of services offered.  The courtyards especially show the age of Art Nouveau, with many green vines mixed with modern, artistic shapes of glass to enhance the courtyard.  Today the Hackesche Höfe has a very lively atmosphere.  Rebuilt to emulate the original market, it offers many shops, courtyards and coffee shops to add to the busy atmosphere. A great way to experience Berlin.

Hackesche Höfe is also the home to the first ever S-Bahn station in Berlin. The fact that this is where the first train station was built shows the amazing popularity and high traffic that moved through the market during earlier days. The S-bahn station is a great example of the Historicist movement. Often when we think of Historicism, we think of grand buildings such as the Reichtag or the Berliner Dom.  These buildings are truly Historicist, however Berlin hides many more examples of Historicist architecture that we often overlook.  The S-Bahnhof at Hackescher Markt is a prime example of this kind of architecture.  In 1882 the first S-Bahn train traveled, with Emperor Wilhelm I as the guest of honor, through a new railway route.  The urban railway station at Hackescher Markt was an impressive station built to excite Berliners about the new train system.  The hall measures about 100 meters in length and 16 meters in width.  It has a low-arched roof and originally offered a skylight in the middle.  The side facing Hackischer Markt is richly decorated with low arches above shops and an upper story with round windows.  The side panels of the walls are ornate and detailed.  Hackescher Markt was built to reflect the beauty of the Renaissance.

Hackescher Markt is not only a beautiful structure revealing aspects from the Renaissance, but it also is home to one of Berlin’s most important historical milestones.  The addition of a street train was essential for the rapidly growing Berlin.  The railways allowed Berliners to travel from easy to west without causing traffic.  The new railway line symbolized Berlin’s movement to become an ultra modern city.  There was a demand for public transportation, due to the population increase.  Hackescher Markt and the first ever S-Bahnhof stands today as a reminder of the beginnings of a well thought out city.

If you’re interested in exploring Berlin further and stepping away from the typical sights, take the S-bahn to Hackescher Markt to see the beginnings of a bustling city.

On your next trip to Berlin, one of my top European travel tips is to take a day-trip to visit the castles of Potsdam. Many people overlook this historically significant city when they visit Germany, but Potsdam is a gem that is sure to excite any history buff. The city is located about thirty minutes outside of Berlin in the former East Germany. Potsdam includes several magnificent castles that survived WWII largely without damage. One of my favorites? Schloss Sanssouci.

Schloss Sanssouci was a summer residence for Frederick the Great. Designed in the eighteenth century, the palace has a rococo feel with a French twist. Take a tour of it to see for yourself. Cost is reasonable considering tourists get to not only tour the palace, but also have a guide: 8 Euros for everyone or 5 Euros for students. Most people spend about an hour and a half exploring the palace, but one could easily get lost in history and spend a half of a day there.

Each room in the palace is decorated and styled differently. Explore from room to room and listen to the tour guide tell stories of the palace. One of the greatest rooms in the palace is one that was designed specifically for Voltaire. The walls are painted with visuals of birds and trees.

Locals of Potsdam love to share a story about the time Napoleon visited the place. During his visit, Napoleon was welcomed at the back entrance of the palace. However, he was unaware that he was welcomed into the back at the time. He was impressed with the grandeur of the building and was quite content with the welcoming. When it was mentioned to him later that he was welcomed in through the back, he threw a steaming fit and left at once.

After a tour of the palace, tourists should be sure to walk around the grounds of the palace. The garden is gigantic and worth walking through. There are many stairs leading down to the garden. This is where your best photo-taking moment will be. Have your photographer stand lower on the stairs to get the perfect photo of you with the beautiful Schloss Sanssouci hovering in the background.

On your walk through the garden, make sure you take a look at Frederick the Great’s grave. He was buried with his nine pet dogs.

Have you visited the any of the palaces at Potsdam? Which is your favourite?

If you’re headed to Berlin, you probably know by now that the city is full of museums. One museum that tends to be overlooked is the Käthe Kollwitz Museum located in the Charlottenburg area. The museum houses a collection of works created by Berlin’s most acclaimed female artist, Käthe Kollwitz.

The loss of her son in World War I, the lost of her grandson in World War II and the many sick, poor and afflicted people she worked with inspired art that many would describe as dark and depressing. Kollwitz’s work depicts heavy themes of poverty, sickness, death and fear. Visiting the museum is by no means an uplifting experience, however a visit does provide many powerful and thought provoking moments about the horrors of mankind. While the museum may seem rather small, the villa actually houses nearly five decades of work that depicts the oppressed, the sick, the needy and the dead. You’ll find an array of charcoal sketches, lithographs, sculptures and woodcuts throughout the villa that opened in 1986.

The Käthe Kollwitz Museum is easily one of my favorite museums in Berlin and one of my top “off the beaten track” European travel tips. Kollwitz inspired me to give more consideration about the sick and the needy living in the world today. She was a true humanitarian and was never blind to the harsh realities facing her people during war. It’s nearly impossible to leave the museum without wanting to make a huge difference among people in the world.

If you find that you enjoyed the Käthe Kollwitz Museum, then I suggest heading over to the Neue Wache on the north side of Unter den Linden. The building has been used as a war memorial ever since 1931 and houses one of Kollwitz’s best works — Mother with her Dead Son. This powerful piece depicts a mother holding her dead son who died in World War II. You may notice that the sculpture mirrors the Pieta located inside of the Vatican in Rome – which depicts Mary holding Jesus Christ after the crucifixion. If you noticed this parallel, then you’re right on target. Kollwitz wanted to create a statue that showed the ultimate pain felt from a mother mourning the loss of her son. Also notice the oculus on the ceiling of the building. Kollwitz’s sculpture is placed directly under the oculus so that it is exposed to harsh weather. Being exposed to rain, snow and cold temperatures is supposed to symbolize the suffering from two World Wars.

If you love art or if you consider yourself a pacifist, then you won’t want to miss seeing work created by Germany’s most famous advocate and female pacifist, Käthe Kollwitz.

If you’re facinated by the ancient sites of Greece and Rome, then you’ll love the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, one of the highlights of the Museuminsel or Museum Island where you’ll also find several other major museums and galleries. Although I didn’t get time to visit the others when we were there last spring, the Pergamon has the reputation for ‘If you only see one, see this one’

The Pergamon Altar at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin

Even if you’re not normally one to hang out at ancient monuments, this museum is a great place to get a manageable taste of the antiquities in under an hour when you just see the highlights with the audio-tour. The museum gets it’s name from the huge Pergamon Altar which is more of a complete building frontage, that has been transported into the first room of the museum. Here you can sit on the very steps of the building which once stood in Turkey as you listen to the audio-guide and view the figures on the frieze at close quarters – once they were painted in bright colours and gilding rather than the current stark white marble.

Market Gate of Miletus at the Pergamon Museum

Next you walk through the huge Roman market Gate of Miletus, and imagine the high walls that once surrounded it and the bustle of people passing through. Then just when you may be getting tired on the monochrome marble and stonework comes a burst of colour in the colbalt blue Ishtar gate, from the Babylon of King Nebuchadnezzar, with amazingly preserved tilework of horses and lions along the processional way.

Once you’ve completed the audio-guide with these highlights, there are many other interesting things to explore in the museum, but we had teenagers in tow and they had reached their culture limit by that time and we had to move on.

Ishtar Gate in the Pergamon museum in Berlin

If you’re on a budget, it’s worth noting that there is free entry to the museums on all on Thursday evenings and that children under 16 are free.

All photos by Heather on her travels on flickr

I’ll admit it. When my Berlin-savvy friend asked if I’d like to stop by the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor), I said “yes, of course!” As we strolled past the Hotel Aldon (of Michael Jackson fame), I racked my brain trying to think of what I remembered (or had ever learned) about the Brandenburg Gate and came up next to empty. I guess this is the beauty of traveling- to discover new places and ideas and to educate ourselves about the historical and cultural significance of certain sites. Thankfully, my Berliner friends gave me a general overview of the Brandenburg Gate’s history as we stood in front of this impressive monument at the end of Unter den Linden (Berlin’s principle boulevard).

When I got home, I felt compelled to learn more about this great German symbol of both division and unification. It is a former city gate, the only remaining one of several that were used as a formal entryway into Berlin in the late 18th, 19th  and early 20th centuries. Originally constructed in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate was commissioned by Friedrich Wilhelm II and designed by Karl Gotthard Langhans.

The gate was modeled after the Propylaea, the entrance hall of the Acropolis in Athens, Greece. The Propylaea was the gateway to a shrine of the ancient world; likewise, the Brandeburg Gate served as the passage into the most important city of the Prussian empire. The Brandenburg Gate is topped with a quadriga (a car or chariot drawn by four horses) carrying the goddess of victory. Her image was meant to invoke the virtues of peace, friendship and statesmanship. Considering the gate was erected as a monument to represent peace, it is ironic that it was used as a Nazi party symbol and eventually became part of the Berlin wall during Communist rule in East Germany.

The Brandenburg Gate was one of the only structures near the famed Pariser Platz that survived World War II. The bullet holes left in the gate were patched and parts of the façade that had been ruined by explosions were reconstructed shortly after the end of WWII, though the rest of Pariser Platz was in ruins.

Pedestrians, bikes and vehicles were allowed to pass through the gate until the Berlin Wall was constructed just west of the Brandenburg Gate in August, 1961 and access stopped. The Gate reopened in 1989 after the Wall came down and buildings in Pariser Platz were reconstructed.  From 1998-2002, motorized vehicles were allowed to pass through the gate, but only pedestrian traffic is allowed now.

I wish I could have been back at the Brandenburger Tor on November 5, 2009. U2 played a concert in front of it in honor of the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Now that would have been an education.

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Having visited the palace of Versailles in France, I had a feeling that I would not be impressed by King Frederick II’s Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam, Germany. Sure enough, when we pulled up to the old villa, I thought, well this is pretty good, but it isn’t so much. Then our tour guide told us that we were looking at the servants’ quarters.

King Frederick II (also known as Frederick the Great) lived during the 17th Century and united a significant portion of Prussia’s territory during his lifetime. He was known for being  sensitive to the Enlightenment Movement while simultaneously ruling with ruthless authority. When he was a teenager, he tried to flee from his father in order to escape becoming king. However, he was captured and, as punishment, was forced to watch his childhood friend beheaded.

The grounds of the Sanssouci Palace are located outside of the city of Potsdam, which is located near Berlin, and you can get to it by bus, train or  rental car. The grounds are so impressive and so massive that—if it is a nice day—they can consume an entire day (I recommend packing a picnic with a bottle of wine or two).

After I was told that I was looking at the servants’ quarters, we entered the palace grounds, which stretch for what seems like miles. Around every corner of the grounds we found gargantuan and beautiful feats of architecture as well as more polite gazebos and fountains. There are terraced gardens, ponds, a Chinese House, and multiple fountains that show Frederick’s love of ancient Greek artwork.

Another reason that the grounds feel so endless is that there are multiple buildings that served as palaces, notably the New Palace, which was built by Frederick simply to show off his power. The palaces display Rococo and Baroque architecture.

When we came to the official palace there was no mistaking it. Standing on a hill with intricate arbor of grapevines rolling down in front of it, the palace looked both cold and secretive, like a lost empire. The tour inside is worth the price. My favorite room is the room that King Frederick II had decorated specifically to the tastes of the writer, Voltaire. Dazzling beyond any verbal description, the walls are completely composed of gold that is shaped into nature scenes that include vines and life-size birds. The decorations are three-dimensional and jump out at you from all sides. The intricacy and deliberation of the work is awe-inspiring, and lends credit to the rumor that Voltaire and he were more than just friends. The fact that the poet—for reasons unknown—stopped visiting King Frederick II before the room’s completion, and in fact never saw the room himself, is a poetic tragedy on multiple levels.

After visiting the palace, I wandered along the ponds and fields around the palace with a head full of facts about the King’s life. Frederick the Great is thought to have lived a lonely life, and it didn’t take much imagination for me to picture him strolling alone along the banks of his massive ponds or rows of  grapevines.

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Bordering the Berlin Wall, Kreuzberg borough was home to students, artists, leftist radicals and a large Turkish population throughout the 1960s-1080s. When the wall fell, the area became, once again, the center of Berlin. Though Kruezberg is still an eclectic area, rising rents are making it increasingly difficult for alternative businesses and artists to survive in the area.

Kreuzberg is home to the largest Turkish population in Germany as well as a plethora of unique shops and some of the best eats I had during my trip. I also suggest checking out the following vibrant Berlin areas for a multifarious smattering of boutiques, cafes, and local culture: Oranienstrasse, Görlitzer Park, Oberbaumbrücke Bridge, and Bergmannstrasse.

Oranienstrasse

Oranienstrasse is home to one of the liveliest stretches of cafes and shops in Berlin. Due north of the Kottbusser Tor (U) subway stop (from Erkelenzdamm for two blocks east to Mariannenstrasse), you’ll find everything from bookstores to camp gay bars, clothing boutiques and Turkish imbisses. Near Heinrichplatz, at the intersection of Oranienstrasse and Adalbertstrasse, there is another wonderful grouping of cafes and bars.

I enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Bateau Ivre, a bar and café serving earthy, delectable plates at reasonable prices – I had the beet and cambazola quiche and orange almond ginger soup with a glass of rose, which ended up being my most memorable meal of the trip.
Bateau Ivre
Oranienstr. 18
U-bahn: Goerlitzer Bahnhof

Görlitzer Park

Nearby Görlitzer Park (“Görli” as it is affectionately called by locals) is definitely worth a visit. It is located where the Görlitzer banhof (train station), which was bombed during WWII, once stood. The park contains several freestanding sculptures, the dilapidated  railroad station, and lots of natural foliage. When the weather is nice, you can expect to find locals picnicking, lounging, playing frisbee, or engaging in impromptu drum jams. The charming Edelweiss Café, located in the park, is the perfect place to spend the afternoon reading, sipping wine, talking with friends, and enjoying the view.

Oberbaumbrücke Bridge

Closer to the Spree River, you’ll find the impressive Oberbaumbrücke bridge (the former border between Kreuzberg and Friedrich)  as well as plenty of charming streets filled with cafes, bars, nightclubs and funky boutiques.

Bergmannstrasse

If you’re looking for casual restaurants and boutiques full of vintage, repurposed, or handmade clothing and accessories, head straight to Bergmanstrasse.
I had a late dinner at Café Milagro, a delightful bar and Italian restaurant.  I recommend the spinach and goat cheese pizza and the tomato basil and garlic soup. The copious Mediterranean sampler platter (piled high with olives, cucumbers, hummus, eggplant, cheese and breads) was a fantastic value. They have a great wine and beer selection as well. If you choose to sit outdoors, you can cover your legs with a fleecy blanket provided by the establishment – this seemed to be the trend at Berlin cafes with sidewalk seating.
Café Milagro
Bergmannstr. 12
Ubahn Gneisenaustrasse

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As I was searching for a place to stay for a week in Berlin ,  I was drawn to Schoenberg (in former West Berlin, near Charlottenberg) because of its central location (near Potsdamer Platz) and the choice of excellent hotels in the area. As I researched the area, I discovered how unique and colorful Schoenberg’s history and present culture are.

We stayed in the Hotel City B and were very satisfied with our experience. The rooms were quite large (by European standards), with a kitchenette, dining area, flat screen TV, full bath and separate bedroom with a queen bed. The rates in March were very reasonable – our room was 89 Euros per night (smaller rooms were available for 59 Euros a night). The hotel was also very quiet- when we were in our room and walking down the hallways, we often felt like the only people there (which obviously wasn’t the case, given the number of people we saw at breakfast each morning). Hotel City B offers a substantial breakfast in its ground-level dining area. We enjoyed a wide selection of meats, cheeses, breads, spreads (jams and Nutella), yogurt, fruit, juice and coffee for 9 euros. When we stepped outside, the Bulowstrasse U-bahn station was conveniently located directly across the street.

Schoenberg is known for its vibrant cabaret culture in the 1920s and 1930s and has been Berlin’s gay district since that time. Schoenberg has inspired many artistic creations such as Christopher Isherwood’s play “I am Camera,” which later became “Cabaret” (the musical). Today, most of Schoenberg’s cabarets have been replaced by their modern counterparts (bars and clubs), and the area is still incredibly vibrant.  
Take a stroll up Potsdamerstrasse, Schoenberg’s main boulevard, and you’ll end up at the famous hub, Potsdamer Platz. While you’re there, be sure to check out Kulturforum Berlin, a multi-disciplinary, multi-building arts collective. The Kulturforum is located at Potsdamerstrasse and Scharounstrasse and the nearest U-bahn/S-bahn stop is Potsdamerstrasse.

The original idea for the Kulturforum dates back to right after World War II. The city’s art collections had been split between East and West Berlin. Kulturforum was West Berlin’s response to East Berlin’s impressive Museuminsel (Museum Island). The architect for the original Kulturforum was Hans Bernhard Scharoun. Since it’s inception in the 1950s, the Kulturforum has grown to ten buildings, hosting some of the finest art and performances in Germany.

Institutions at Kulturforum (and the year they were constructed):

Philharmonie (1963)
Concert Hall
Neue Nationalgalerie (1968)
New National Gallery: A museum containing mostly late 19th and 20th century art.
Neue Staatsbibliothek (1978)
State Library
Musikinstrumentenmuseum (1984)
Museum of Musical Instruments
Kunstgewerbemuseum (1985)
Museum of Applied Art: Exposition of handicrafts from medieval times to the present day.
Kammermusiksaal (1987)
Chamber Music Hall: Concert Hall with a seating capacity of 1123
Wissenschaftszentrum (1988)
Science Center
Kupferstichkabinett (1992)
Museum of Graphic art
Kunstbibliothek (1992)
Art Library
Gemälderie (1998)
Museum with a large collection of European art from all eras.

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