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Croatia Week on Europe a la Carte
Croatia Week will be running on Europe a la Carte from 15 – 21 January 2012. On Europe a la Carte we’ve put together 25 ideas on what to do in Croatia and city guides to Dubrovnik and Zagreb.
I’ve been to Croatia a couple of times; to Zadar and to the Istrian peninsula. I’d love to go back again to explore more of the country.
The Colosseum in Pula
Throughout the week I’ll be sharing our Croatian posts on things to do in Croatia on the Europe a la Carte Facebook page and in my Twitter stream using the hashtag #croatiatips.
Croatia Week on Europe a la Carte
Tips on the what to do in Europe. Copyrighted content published on Europe a la Carte.
25 Places to See in Croatia
Croatia is a fantastic European destination which has become increasingly popular after the war of the early 1990s. And with good reason, as not only has its history meant prices are lower than in western Europe (perhaps not for long if it joins the Eurozone?), but it is an amazingly scenic country with a photogenic coastline, great food and many other hidden gems.
Croatian seafood including Squid Rissotto
Over the years, many of the Europe a la Carte writers have visited Croatia and one former writer was based in Zagreb, so our archives are jam-packed with suggestions on places to see in Croatia. I’ve sorted through and here are my travel tips on 25 places to see to give you a good overall experience in Croatia – with plenty of relaxing coastal time included!
Plitvice Lakes
Starting off away from the coast, the Plitvice Lakes are not only one of the most gorgeous sites in Croatia, but one of my favourite places ever in all the world! The Plitvice Lakes National Park is in the middle of Croatia, close to the border with Bosnia & Herzegovina, and was with good reason one of the first natural sites to be put on the UNESCO World Heritage list. You can explore the lakes and waterfalls on foot via excellent pathways and small bridges and I promise you’ll break your personal record on number of photos taken in one day!
Plitvice Lakes by Amanda Kendle
Dubrovnik
At the southern end of Croatia, the city of Dubrovnik has already become a major tourist drawcard. There is plenty to see here but walking the walls around the Old Town is one of the highlights. You can get more Dubrovnik ideas in our Best of Dubrovnik Travel Tips post.
View over Dubrovnik by Amanda Kendle
Zagreb
The Croatian capital, Zagreb, is another great destination, and in particular its Old Town is well worth a good look around. There are all kinds of interesting insider tips from resident Neha in our Best of Zagreb Tips post.
Bol
Croatia is, of course, famous for gorgeous islands, beaches and clear blue sea, and a popular spot to enjoy this is at Bol, on the island of Brac. In particular, the Zlatni Rat beach at Bol is one of the most beautiful in the country – but at the peak of summer, be warned that you definitely not be alone there!
Zlatni Rat by ahenobarbus
Korcula
A kind of “mini version” of Dubrovnik is the walled town of Korcula which is found on (logically enough) the island of Korcula, one of the most visited of Croatia’s many islands. Check our post on five things to do in Korcula for more ideas.
Palmizana
For somewhere a little less popular, you can try the island of Palmizana (also known as the island of St Klement), a tiny island not far from Hvar. Our Croatian expert Neha proclaimed it be one of the best places to visit in Croatia.
Fish near Palmizana by neha
Trogir
A great day trip from the larger city of Split, a visit to the small town of Trogir is a fascinating one for those with an interest in the local history. The Fortress Kamerlengo in Trogir dates back to the fourteenth century but these days you can ascend it relatively easily (if you’re good with steps!), and there are numerous other historical sites to explore.
View over Trogir by Amanda Kendle
Groznjan
Grozhjan is best known as a artists’ colony where you can buy locally made souvenirs.
Biograd
A surprise spot for me when I visited Croatia was the coastal tourist town of Biograd. Not far from Zadar, Biograd has been a tourist resort since the 1920s and has plenty of tourist infrastructure so you can enjoy a holiday there, especially in summer. I was particularly taken by this cafe with its large outdoor (and very comfortable) sofas, although I haven’t been able to find out if it is still there!
Biograd cafe by Amanda Kendle
Volosko
A good part of Croatia all year round – it never gets too cold – is the Opatija Riviera, and a highlight here is the small fishing village of Volosko. As you might imagine, being a fishing village means there are fantastic seafood dining options here!
Hvar
If you ask around for the best island to visit in Croatia, plenty of people will tell you it’s the popular tourist destination of Hvar – and with good reason. A good tip from Neha is to climb up to the fortress at Hvar where you’ll be rewarded with some spectacular views.
View over Hvar by neha
Hum
For something a little different, you might like to try a spot in Croatia that’s made it into the Guinness records as the smallest town in the world – the town of Hum on the Istrian coast in northern Croatia. It’s a walled town home to just 23 people and the local pub is famous for a special 2,000 year old brandy recipe!
Cycling in Istria
And while in Istria, you might like to follow Heather’s tips on enjoying a cycle ride in Istria. You can cycle along paths by the sea and cool off in any number of great swimming spots along the way.
Cycling in Istria by Heather Cowper
Rovinj
The seaside town of Rovinj is another popular tourist destination in Croatia, again with good reason: gorgeous old buildings, a pretty marina, and fantastic seafood restaurants.
Rovinj
The island of Vis
If you’re looking for an island slightly less popular than Hvar, then perhaps the island of Vis might be more your style. Reached from Split, it was long off-bounds to even the locals (it was used as an army base until 1990) so it has managed to avoid many of the negatives of tourist-related development.
Makarska Riviera
The Makarska Riviera is a popular part of the Croatian mainland coast during summer. There are numerous small towns all along the coast and even more spectacular beaches.
Beach on the Makarska Riviera by mueritz
Rastoke
An interesting day or half day trip from Zagreb, as recommended by Neha, is the small mill village of Rastoke. There are old walkways around the village between the various mills and even the possibility to grab a coffee by a scenic waterfall.
Split
Being a major hub for inbound budget flights, and pretty centrally-located to boot, the city of Split is a common destination for visitors to Croatia. It has a bit of everything – a historical Old Town, great night life, good access to beaches and plenty of tasty food around. If the small coastal village life isn’t what you’re after in Croatia then a holiday in Split is a great alternative.
Split Old Town by lostajy
Pula
Karen spent some time in the Istrian city of Pula in the north of Croatia and admired its Coliseum and other historical features. It’s certainly a fascinating city and Jason wrote us a detailed post on Pula while he lived there.
Elaphite Islands
When you get down the Croatian coast to Dubrovnik, your ideal island experience becomes the Elaphite Islands, a group of six islands all within a reasonably short ferry ride of Dubrovnik. They are car-free islands making them great for a relaxing beachside holiday.
Trakoscan Castle
The Trakoscan Castle just outside Zagreb is a different side of Croatia again. It dates back to the thirteenth century and is now a museum with rooms set up to represent various authentic eras, and it even has dungeons!
Trakoscan Castle by Sobrecroacia.com
Sibenik
Sibenik is located on the coast between Zadar and Split and is known for both its spectacular St James Cathedral and its great food (seafood, of course!). Check Karen’s post on Sibenik and you’ll see her video of the centre.
Square in Sibenik
Krka National Park
Not far from Sibenik is the Krka National Park, which is not dissimilar in some ways to my beloved Plitvice Lakes National Park. It covers a part of the Krka River with numerous high waterfalls and pools of the river and you can explore it by boat and via walkways.
Losinj
Another tip from Jason was to visit the island of Losinj and its towns of Mali Losinj and Veli Losinj (meaning Small Losinj and Big Losinj, although apparently the names are the opposite to the size of the towns!). They feature some gorgeous churches and other historical architecture along with the ubiquitous Croatian seafood.
Zadar
The city of Zadar, another relatively large coastal city, is of particular interest for its installations in the promenade area. There’s a Sea Organ which is basically a large organ under the seaside steps which is “played” by the waves – very unique! – as well as the “Greeting to the Sun“, a nearby installation of glass panels which makes all kind of unique light patterns.
Your Croatian Tips
There are so many other spots to see in Croatia, both well-known and nearly unknown – so if you have any tips for what to do in Croatia, please leave a comment.
25 Places to See in Croatia
Tips on the what to do in Europe. Copyrighted content published on Europe a la Carte.
Eating the Adriatic – Chasing the Elusive White Truffle
Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula is home to some of the most sought-after culinary ingredients in the world and at the top of the list is the white truffle. Istria’s olive oil has been repeatedly ranked among the tippy-top, and its wines, made from the malvazija, teran, and muskat grapes, pair excellently with the local Mediterranean cuisine (they are a good value, too, most ranging $10-$30.)
Giancarlo Zigante put Istria’s white truffles on the map when he found the world’s largest, weighing in at 2.88 lbs, in 1999. It had the appearance of, and was roughly the same size as, a human 
brain, and today, it remains the largest white truffle ever found. Instead of selling it abroad, he sold it locally, prompting truffle aficionados from around the globe to visit Istria.
The Zigante Truffle Days festival, which is free to attend, was bustling when I arrived on a Saturday. It typically runs every weekend in October and the first half of November. Artisans were selling liqueurs, cheeses, fresh porcini mushrooms, and other local, seasonal cooking ingredients in giant white tents; there were truffle-hunting demonstrations with dogs and planted truffles and steaming pots of white truffle–infused goulash. For just 20 kunas (roughly $3.60), you could have all the wine you could drink, and everyone walked around with a glass. Furiously fast chefs presented cooking demonstrations, and well-dressed announcers described preparation methods over blaring PA systems. They said things like “now he’s plating the pasta” and “now he’s shaving white truffle over the pasta.” Illuminating stuff. At the end, the chefs handed out free samples, and it took my breath away to see full servings of fresh white truffle and linguini given away with the carelessness of rock show fliers.
Over 1,500 truffle hunters are registered in Istria, and many sell their truffles at the festival, but the largest stands were reserved for Zigante truffles. The Zigante name appeared everywhere. I felt as though I were at a Disneyland for food lovers, the Zigante name standing in for Mickey Mouse. Instead of grabbing a plate, I waited for lunch: a four-course truffle tasting menu at Restaurant 
Zigante, which is located in the center of the festival grounds. The meal began with a crumbly black truffle and sheep cheese mousse served with a balsamic reduction, toasted pine nuts and almonds, and dried fruit. The waiter explained that to make a dish that focuses on fresh white truffle, you need to begin with a good base; potatoes, eggs, and pastas are the best.
The next dish was my favorite: a simple linguini with a light cream sauce, finished with shavings of white truffle. I told the waiter that I needed more photos just so that he’d continue to shave truffle onto my dish. I couldn’t help myself. The aroma was a powerful combination of mushroom, garlic, and almonds enveloped in je ne sais quoi. When I took a bite, the flavors eluded me, and the more I used my taste buds to capture them, the more elusive they became. The most satisfaction came through simply breathing in the scent of the dish, or lightly breathing in as I took a bite. The meal ended with one of Istria’s most famous truffle dishes: white truffle ice cream. The ice cream itself was too rich, reminding me of half-melted French 
vanilla ice cream. However, the white truffle flavor was exceptionally potent—so potent that the table was divided as to whether or not the dessert was any good. It wasn’t the most elegant, but it made me feel as though the elusive flavor was finally within my grasp.
Before leaving, I had to go truffle shopping (a friend and one-time chef at San Francisco’s Delfina wanted me to send him a fresh truffle), and I learned a few tips for buying white truffles. A small truffle, roughly the size of a ping-pong ball, would cost 25 euro. A truffle that size was enough for two-four plates of pasta. I couldn’t believe that the price was within my reach. Then came the bad news: it would stay fresh for a maximum of seven days. Herein lies the dilemma for truffle lovers. Truffles are seasonal, and you need to visit truffle-growing regions at the right time of year and be prepared to eat truffles on the spot. It’s a great excuse to rent an apartment and cook lavish truffle dinners, using Istria’s extra virgin olive oil and pairing it with a bottle of Teran wine.
In two weeks, I would visit the white truffle festival in Alba, Italy, the most famous place in the world for procuring white truffles. I couldn’t wait to compare the experiences. But now I was headed for Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, for the last day of the Gastro Croatia press trip.
Hotel Recommendation in Buzet (near the Zigante Truffle Festival):
Vela Vrata Hotel - $$-$$$
This place made me feel metropolitan cool, even in the country. Located in the hilltop town of Buzet, the small hotel comes with incredible views. Carefully decorated, the rooms combine country charm with highbrow interior design. The in-house restaurant serves traditional local dishes. Spa, Jacuzzi, and free WiFi.
Follow our own “Ravenous Traveler”, Mattie Bamman, as he eats his way through Croatia, Slovenia and Italy.
Written by and photos by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com
Related posts:
- Eating the Adriatic: Dubrovnik, Croatia
- Eating the Adriatic – Pag, the Magical Island of Cheese
- Eating the Adriatic – From Split and Sibenik with Love and Wine
Eating the Adriatic – Pag, the Magical Island of Cheese
When we arrived at the bridge connecting Pag, the island of Cheese to Croatia’s mainland, we got out of our car to feel the wind. Named bora, this violent wind churned the sea hundreds of feet below. The seawater that had been turquoise just a few miles south, was now deep, dark blue and riddled with white caps; the bora lifted clouds of seawater into the air. The terrain was equally beaten, and I didn’t see any shrubs that grew over three feet tall. A couple of metal poles stood bare along the roadside, their signs torn off and carried over the edge of the cliff. When I got out of the van, I walked at a 45-degree-angle.
a“Every house is made of concrete. If they were made of wood, they would be in Italy.” Local Cheesemaker
Why is this type of environment so good for cheese making? Well, because of the cute little “sheepsees”. Smaller than average, Pag sheep are a unique breed, with stock that originates in Sardinia, and size counts on Pag because there’s very little food. “All of the rocks in the fields are turned over each morning,” explained Ante 
Ostaric, manager at Paska Sirana cheese factory. “They have to be that persistent to find enough food.”
As we drove across Pag, I couldn’t help feeling bad for the little sheep. They huddled behind rocks among one another with their sad little sheep expressions. Then I tried Paski Sir. The most famous cheese from Pag (which retails at $30 a pound in the U.S. if you can even find it, but which is quite affordable in shops along the Dalmatian Coast), Paski Sir is the richest hard cheese that I’ve ever tried, with flavor crystals, aka tyrosine (condensed white balls of amino acid), that popped in the mouth.
Many of the world’s greatest culinary products come from harsh conditions. The best olive oils and wines are made from trees and vines that have had to suffer—from the salt wind and arid soil of southern Italy, to the hail and stints of intense heat in Oregon. The small size and reduced diet of Pag sheep produces milk with a very high fat content, which results in very rich cheese. To me, it tasted as though brie and Parmesan procreated.
If you like wine with your cheese, you can visit Vina Otoka Paga winery (just up the road), which provides free tastings every day during the summer, and sometimes in the winter. Besides the cheese, Pag is worth visiting for the all-night beach parties in the summer, when the wind is less severe.
Before the cheese tasting, I toured the coastal city of Zadar (33 miles south), and heard the world’s first Sea Organ (San Francisco has built a replica, but the idea originates in Zadar). Built by Nikola Basic, the organ is actually played by sea waves. Our guide, Ana explained how it works:
Play Sea Organ Zadar
Zadar is a city of 75,00 built on a small peninsula, and the homes are built right up to the edge of the sea. The ancient Roman ruins around St. Donatus’ Church are just steps away from the waves, and the restaurants remain committed to Mediterranean fare. Ana took us to her favorite pastry shop, Pekarnica Krostula, which served excellent burek (a savory phyllo pastry filled with cheese).
At first, the city didn’t strike me (especially after visiting Dubrovnik , Split, and Sibenik), but it quickly won me over when we visited the outdoor market where honey, strands of garlic, essential oils, and several different types of rakija were being sold. Ana explained that old folks eat figs and drink rakija in the morning. “Figs are good for digestion and rakija is good for circulation,” she explained with a laugh, which seemed to imply the dubiousness of the theory. This didn’t stop me from trying Maraska distillery’s Marischino liqueur, one of the most famous liqueurs in Croatia. Maraska distillery is located in Zadar, and the powerful, cherry-infused booze was delicious at 11am.
Tomorrow morning we leave early for the Istrian Peninsula, one of the only places in the world where high-quality white truffles grow. It’s also known for its beaches, olive oil, wine, and hilltop towns. I can’t wait. In fact, I’m dying to eat those truffles. Dy-ing.
Restaurant Recommendations in Zadar
2Ribara - $-$$$
The décor isn’t traditional, but the food is. The pizzas are good if looking for a budget option, but try the octopus salad or the brancin ili orada na zaru (grilled sea bass), which comes with the traditional side dish blitva na dalmatinski (Swiss chard and potatoes). The bass is baked with a secret topping, but the waiter let the following ingredients slip: thyme, parsley, rosemary, Grana Padano, basil, garlic.
Blaza Jurjeva 1
Krostula – $
Excellent breakfast pastries. The burek sir, a phyllo dough and cheese pastry, was the best I had in Croatia.
Multiple locations. See website
Hotel Recommendation in Zadar
Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik - $$$$
This five-star hotel has an especially good breakfast buffet with a huge selection of foods from around the world. The rooms are modern, and most have views of the sea. There’s a theme park too, and this hotel is great for travelers looking to entertain their children without leaving the hotel. It is located a 10-minute drive outside of Zadar. 15 minutes free WiFi in the room.
Majstora Radovana 7
Restaurant Recommendation in Pag
Na Tale – $-$$
Located in the center of Pag, this restaurant specializes in lamb rotisserie, a very popular cooking method in the area. The whole lamb is slow-cooked on a spit in a large rotisserie, and served with potatoes and grilled onions. The décor is rustic, but the service is professional.
Stjepana Radica 2
Written by Mattie Bamman for EuropeUpClose.com
Related posts:
- Eating the Adriatic: Dubrovnik, Croatia
- Eating the Adriatic – Traditional Dubrovnik Dishes
- Eating the Adriatic – From Split and Sibenik with Love and Wine
Island Hopping in Croatia
My island hopping along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast began in the port town of Split. I had arrived thinking I would stay for just a day or two and then make my way to the islands, but something unexpected happened: I fell for Croatia before even setting foot on one of its stunning islands.
I got to the islands eventually, and was glad I did. But beforehand I slowed down and took the time to leisurely explore Split. Beyond the shining white promenade, I discovered a bustling fish market, explored the ruins of Diocletian’s palace, and sipped coffee for a people-watching break in the main square.
Eventually it was time to get moving in order to see what the islands along the Dalmatian Coast had to offer. With each new stop along this coastline, I was pleasantly surprised to see that one island could actually be more beautiful than the next.
Brac
I boarded a ferry for the island of Brac. The ferry takes you to the town of Supetar, but I had another island destination in mind: the town of Bol. Bol is home to the famous beach, Zlatni Rat. Located on a peninsula that dramatically juts out into the sea, Zlatni Rat is one of the most picturesque beaches I’ve ever set foot on.
Despite the fact that the beach is a little pebbly, it was a relaxing, enjoyable place to spend a few days soaking up the sun. And for the more active visitors, wind surfing is the most popular sport (it also provides plenty of entertainment for sunbathers.)
The town of Bol itself is home to everything from open-air cocktail bars to quaint bakeries where you can grab a snack en route to the beach.
Hvar
From the ferry terminal in Bol, I boarded a boat for the next island on my itinerary: Hvar. While Zlatni Rat is gorgeous, Hvar Town elevates beach beauty to another level. At the center of the town is a harbor where boats (and plenty of yachts) were bobbing away.
Perched above the town is a castle and former fortress that is not only a historic site, but also offers sweeping views of the harbor and nearby islands. No trip to Hvar is complete without a hike to the fortress. I had read that hundreds of islands make up this archipelago, but this only became clear once I had hiked to the top of the fortress. Split had taught me to take things slow. Once I got to the top, I was pleased to find a restaurant where I could sit, relax, and take in the views over a local beer.
Seeing all the boats and yachts below made me want to get back on the water and continue the journey.
Dubrovnik
After wandering the stone streets of Hvar for a few days, I was back on the ferry and bound for the scenic walled city of Dubrovnik. Hours later we arrived in the port, ready to explore. It was evening and many of the day’s cruise ship passengers had already departed.
Just as night was falling, Dubrovnik became quiet. A gentle buzz came from restaurants and homes. My first experience in Dubrovnik was enhanced by the ability to stroll the streets with few other visitors in sight. I was glad to have arrived in this magical city outside the high season.
Island hopping in Croatia can be especially popular during the summer, when yachting and boating is at its peak. But, travelers who are looking to avoid the crowds and take in the culture might want to follow this itinerary in spring or fall instead.
Written by Jessica Colley for EuropeUpClose.com
Related posts:
- Ten Reasons to Visit Croatia This Summer
- Up Close Picture of the Week: Hvar, Croatia
- The Pretty Port of Hvar, Croatia
Europe’s Western Balkans: Croatia
Veteran travel writer Bruce Northam has reported (mostly good news) from 125 countries. His book, Globetrotter Dogma: 100 Canons for Escaping the Rat Race & Exploring the World, was cited by National Geographic as one of “Ten better choices: insightful travelogues that will inspire rather than dictate.” Bruce’s wander continues on www.americandetour.com.
The cruise ship industry helped introduce the world to Croatia’s spectacular coastal mountain landscape that’s strewn with World Heritage Sites and everything else demanded by well-rounded vacations. Although members of the European Union, Croatians have yet to adopt the Euro, which is sometimes deemed a necessity to create economic prosperity. However, they have made inspiring progress since their early 90s troubles, as evidenced by a new north-south Autobahn-like highway, efficient car rental services, seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and completely developed, multidimensional tourism options. Slightly smaller than West Virginia, Croatia isn’t peering back at its Communist legacy and strides on as an irresistible destination—so much so that avoiding summer is recommended. Western friendly is an understatement
Impressive Zagreb, the classic European-style capital, has the talent to fulfill a variety of hedonistic whims—within walking distance. In addition, electricity pioneer Nikola Tesla lived here (and in Niagara Falls, N.Y.) Ironically, across from Tesla’s commemorative plaque is one of the city’s 247 charming gas lamps. Aged and trendy styles mingle along cobblestone streets where outdoor café dining and drinking is a lifestyle
Croatia, with its predominantly Roman Catholic population, was the first Balkan nation to give up Latin in favor of its own language for Catholic Church liturgy. A particular sentiment on the tribute wall under Zagreb’s famous Stone Gate caught my eye. This hulking 13th century arch-entry is the last remaining of the five gates that guarded the old city. The admired under-arch painting of the Virgin Mary is surrounded by dozens of tribute plaques. One tribute to her, a remnant of a bygone era sharing a timeless message reads, “Thank you Mother for your help throughout 50 years of marriage.” I know a few married folks who want peace prizes for surviving fifty weeks.
Southbound and into the mountains, Plitvice (Plit-vitz-ah) National Park, on the A-list to becoming one of the new Seven Natural Wonders of the World, is a nearly unfathomable series of 16 descending multi-level lakes and ponds. Each body of water is adjoined by waterfalls splashing over walls that were created by long-ago fallen calcified tree logs that dammed the river 16 times and transformed this ancient river valley into a medley of connected storybook lakes. The highest and lowest watersheds are separated by 435 feet while seven miles of elevated boardwalks and 25 miles of trails touch every corner of this cloud nine. It really is one wow after another.
Split, Croatia’s largest coastal town, is known for Deocletian’s Palace. This sprawling Roman castle-palace, constructed between 295 and 305AD, is special in many ways. Deocletian reigned for 21 years, the longest of any Roman Empire ruler. He is also one of the few Roman emperors to abdicate voluntarily and die naturally. After the Roman evaporation, his palace remained empty until the 7th century when nearby residents squatted within the walled fortification to flee invading barbarians and it has been occupied ever since. It is one of the rare World Heritage Sites draped in laundry–3,000 people still live in this public domain– and it is home to street musicians, restaurants, and a few high-end retail shops stirred in for good measure. One family has been living in the same house for 1200 years. Serving as Split’s true city center, this perfectly preserved Roman palace draws you into this period of history, without the threat of a public lashing.
I found a supreme example of grace meeting gourmet at Sperun Restaurant, an indoor/outdoor buffet-trattoria. While dining, I took my turn sharing wines with the owner—he ‘works’ from table to table, amusing customers—and then he sent me down the block to the fisherman’s church to count my blessings.
Nearby is Gothic Trogir, a city dating to the 2nd century BC that was remodeled by 15th century Venetians and eventually occupied by Napoleon’s army. But, the darling of docking cruise ships and the locomotive for Adriatic postcard sales is Dubrovnik’s old city castle fort that begs and shares wonder. Walking around the lookout rim crowning this mega-stadium sized complex is a lesson in architecture. The inner labyrinth of broad avenues and narrow streets becomes a party complex in the evening. The polished cobblestone main drag is no less than a model runway at night; tanning and serial-smoking are still in vogue. The earnest people may not have forgotten the past, but they’re enjoying their future.
Hotel Options
Zagreb’s centrally located Palace Hotel is a smart choice. Plitvice’s Jezero Hotel is basic but delightful in its rural locale. Split’s seaside Hotel Park has small elegant rooms. Split’s Sperun Restaurant is at Sperun 3 in the old town. 021/346 9999
* RAIL EUROPE cruises into Croatia—in style. www.raileurope.com.
Written by and photos by Bruce Northam for EuropeUpClose.com
Related posts:
- Europe’s Western Balkans – Communist Hangover, Cured: Slovenia
- Europe’s Western Balkans: Montenegro
- Europe’s Western Balkans: Bosnia-Herzegovina
Best of Zagreb Tips
Here’s my round up of all the Europe a la Carte tips on things to do in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, from our expert Neha. It’s one of those cities that a lot of people pass through on their way to somewhere else but don’t stop to appreciate – I’m guilty of that too, having spent two or three hours there in the middle of the night while changing buses! If you are planning a trip to Croatia, then take some time to explore Zagreb with the help of Neha’s insider tips.
Zagreb City Museum by neha
Podcast on Things to Do in Zagreb
Subscribe to the Europe a la Carte Podcast in itunes or audioboo
Landmarks of Zagreb
The main cathedral of Zagreb, the The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Mary, is an impressive neo-gothic building with particularly tall spires, and you can use them to navigate your way around the town centre.
Zagreb’s cathedral by neha
The Croatian National Theatre is also well worth a look, and if you have any interest in opera, ballet or theatre, then check out what will be performed during your visit.
Zagreb’s Old Town is also full of intriguing architecture, including the Lotrščak Tower, which dates back to the 13th century. These days you can climb to the top of the tower for some good views over Zagreb. You should also take a look at the Stone Gate in Zagreb, the only surviving town gate from medieval times.
Zagreb’s stone gate by neha
You will also inevitably come across Illica, the main street of Zagreb. Look out for the cafes in between the numerous buildings; there is also plenty of convenient accommodation along this street and it’s a handy location to stay in.
Zagreb’s main street, Illica by neha
If you’re visiting in December, then the main city landmark becomes the Zagreb Christmas Markets, with a giant Christmas tree being erected on the main square and numerous stalls being set up to sell all kinds of Christmas fare.
Christmas Markets in Zagreb by neha
Museums and Galleries in Zagreb
One of the most visited museums in Zagreb is the Zagreb City Museum, housed in an old convent in the Old Town. Exhibits range from artefacts from the Iron Age through to modern models of the city of Zagreb.
Art lovers will get a lot out of this round-up of five Zagreb galleries, including the Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art and the Mestrovic Studio where famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic’s works can be found.
In the Old Town you can find the Croatian Museum of Naive Art; there were several famous Croatian artists in the naive style in the 1930s and they popularised this art form, making this museum full of the works of successful local artists.
Naive art by neha
Parks in Zagreb
The planners of Zagreb apparently realised the importance of parks. The largest green area in Zagreb is Maksimir Park. It includes a running track, several cafes, a new zoo and concerts during summer.
Closer to the centre, the Lenuci’s Horseshoe (or Lenucijeva Potkova) is a series of parks and squares running between the main station and the main square in the shape of a horseshoe.
Lenuci’s Horseshoe by neha
And finally, while not quite a park, the tree-lined Strossmayer Promenade is still very green and is also home to the Strossmarte street festival during the summer.
Zagreb Cafes
Neha recommendations for locations in which to sip a coffee include Tkalciceva in the city or slightly further afield at the artificial lakes of Jarun or the Sljeme peak (reachable by cable car).
Zagreb Cafe
Day Trips from Zagreb
If you want to escape winter in Zagreb, Neha recommends heading about two and a half hours away to Volosko, a small fishing village on the coast which has a reputation for warmer weather. It’s famous for its seafood restaurants so take your appetite with you!
Volosko by neha
One of the most obvious day trips from Zagreb is to head to the Plitvice Lakes. This is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited and I can’t recommend it highly enough, except to say that rather than making a day trip from Zagreb to Plitvice, try to stay there for a couple of days instead.
Plitvice Lakes by Amanda Kendle
Neha also recommends several other day trips from Zagreb, including Samobor, Veliki Tabor and Trakoscan castles and Krapina.
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Your Tips on Things to Do in Zagreb
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Best of Zagreb Tips
Browse through our travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.
The Best of Dubrovnik Travel Tips
Dubrovnik in southern Croatia is easily one of my favourite European cities, because it seems to have everything I like: beautiful views of the sea, UNESCO-listed historical beauty, great food and friendly people and a touch of the exotic, since it’s only become a mainstream destination for Western tourists in relatively recent times. This collation of our tips for what to do in Dubrovnik should help you plan your trip or simply inspire you to add Dubrovnik to your list of must-see places in Europe.
View over Dubrovnik by Amanda Kendle
Podcast on Things to Do in Dubrovnik
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Walk Dubrovnik’s Walls
The old walls of Dubrovnik are between five and eight hundred years old (they took a few hundred years to be built!) and are certainly one of the sights which give Dubrovnik so much charm. You can walk around the top of the walls in as little as an hour, but take your time and spend closer to half a day doing it if you can.
Walking around Dubrovnik walls by Amanda Kendle
Stradun – Dubrovnik’s Main Street
In the old town, exploring Stradun, the main street, will give you a good overview of Dubrovnik in a short time. Its gorgeous architecture is reason enough to take a walk here but there are also plenty of sights located in just this small area, including the Onofrio Fountain, the Sponza Palace, St Blaise Church, the Bell Tower and the Franciscan Monastery Pharmacy.
Stradun by Neha
The Rector’s Palace
One of Dubrovnik’s must-visit buildings is The Rector’s Palace. It’s a place where you can both admire the intricate architecture as well as explore various different exhibits.
Rector’s Palace by Neha
Fort Lovrijenac
For a Dubrovnik attraction which (for once) is just outside the city walls, visit Fort Lovrijenac – you’ll probably have had a good view of it from the walls, and the entry price is included in a city wall ticket, so take the extra stroll and do it! You can get even more incredible views from the towers of the Fort and you might come across some newly-weds – it’s a very popular wedding photo venue.
Fort Lovrijenac by Neha
Dubrovnik’s Morning Market
With Dubrovnik often feeling a little over-run by tourists these days, it’s great to find something that still seems like it’s really for the locals. The morning market in Dubrovnik is held on Gundulićeva Square near the Rector’s Palace and amongst the fresh produce you’ll even find some stalls selling some locally-made souvenirs.
Dubrovnik Market by Neha
Dubrovnik’s Jewellery Boutiques
You’ll find many jewellery boutiques in the lanes of the old town, often run as family businesses, where you can pick up hand made pieces at every reasonable prices.
Dubrovnik Jewellery Boutique by Neha
Day Trips from Dubrovnik
There are lots of fabulous day trips to make from Dubrovnik, and the most popular ones involve visiting some of the many islands situated nearby. Some of Neha’s island day trip suggestions include Korcula, Mljet and the group of 14 islands which make up the Elaphite Islands. You can use regular ferry services to these islands or join tour groups – take your pick – but you can guarantee a very scenic day out either way.
Sailing near Dubrovnik by Neha
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Your Tips for Things to Do in Dubrovnik
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The Best of Dubrovnik Travel Tips
Browse through our travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.
What’s your dream Europe trip?
In a dream world, right now I’d ignore my emails, pack a weekend bag and skip to the airport. My dream Europe trip? If money wasn’t an issue, a little bit of this:
Sipping cocktails in a London hotel (and perhaps playing tourists for a couple of days), before getting a taxi to the airport and hopping on a plane to Northern Italy. The catching a train through the countryside. Hopping on an off trains as I see fit. Parma, Verona, Milan. Maybe visiting my ol’ friend Florence for the day. Stopping in little hotels, just because they’re pretty, trying little trattoria’s for lunch. That’ll keep me happy for about a week. Trains are so cheap in Italy that I’ll be able to keep on the move.
Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Then hopping over to the West of Sicily on the ferry (for such a small Island there’s an awful lot that I haven’t explored), Off I go to eat arancina and drink unusual spirits. There’s plenty of exploring to be done, most of it best done by car – those little villages all need visiting (in my imaginary dream holiday, I can also drive). Seafood will definitely have to be eaten by the sea.
Then? A short flight to Croatia, to go and play on my very own private island. There are so many dotted around the place, and not at all expensive. Some for playing on for the day, some with lighthouses that your can rent out. I’ve never been to Croatia, so I’ll walk around, taking lots of photos. I’m not really a beach dweller, and get bored after an hour or so. I need some thing to do, and Croatia seems like the perfect place to keep me busy.
Rovinj, Croatia
Oh, what’s that? It’s nearly time to come home? I don’t really want to, so I’m going to fly back to Paris instead. I’ve been to Paris a couple of times, but the catacombs were being restored after (terrible) vandalism, and I didn’t get to go. I’ve also never been to the Sacre Coure, and despite visiting the Louvre, I want to see some of the art inside too.
Pyramids at the Louvre, Paris
Obviously I’ll eat all the cake too. And maybe stay at One by The Five Hotel Paris.
Oh, it really is time to come home now? Oh, that’s sad. Can I go first class on the Eurostar? Actually, it’s my Holiday, so I’m allowed on the Orient Express. That’ll do nicely for my dream Europe trip.
For more travel inspiration read the Europe a la Carte Dream European Travel Itinerary, compiled as part of the Blog’s 4th birthday celebrations.
What’s your dream Europe trip?
Browse through our travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.
Idle Time in the Šibenik Riviera, Croatia
If Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian islands are Croatia’s debutantes, then the Šibenik Riviera is an elegant elder cousin. With a bit more reserve and a bit less bling, the region still shows its Croatian genes: sunshine and ocean, seafood and an enduring local 
culture. The shore is lined with quiet towns where vacationing Croatian families swim and cook, escaping the inland heat for a few weeks each summer.
Though vying to join Croatia’s tourist renaissance, many of these towns still retain their workaday character. The island of Primošten has one of the more developed tourist economies in the Šibenik region, with beaches, nightlife, and a summer arts festival. More as a testament to perseverance than taste, taverns serve babic wine, the local vintage whose grapes are grown on the rocks of the island.
We had coffee in Zaton, a tiny bay rimmed by cafes and leafy trees. With mostly fishermen and farmers, Zaton seems as if it has remained unchanged for generations. Fishing boats, hulls dented and scraped, rock in the harbor. The tiny post office sells CDs by Croatian popular singers; the postmaster will happily play a sample track for tourists.
The biggest city in the region, Šibenik, is a maze of stone. From hilltop to the water, the old city slowly descends downhill; curving, shallow staircases connect upper and lower levels. The streets feel as if they’ve been dug out in the narrows between buildings. Like many Croatian towns, Šibenik has embraced development within the architecture of the past. An icon of such 
history, the Cathedral of St. James stands in the center of town. A chalky gray dome juts above the surrounding tile roofs, asserting its somber, simple lines into the landscape. The UNESCO heritage site is one of Croatia’s only Renaissance cathedrals.
On a hill overlooking the city stands the Fortress of St. Michael. Now largely in ruins, the fortress ascends through multiple levels, up rickety staircases, before a view opens out to reveal the Cathedral’s gray dome, the irregular geometry of red roofs, and the opaque blue of the bay.
Sprinkled with islands – some habited, some wild – the estuary has a unique half-salt, half-fresh water consistency. In Krka National Park, the fresh Krka River cascades into the Adriatic. Just a few years ago, visitors could swim out to the waterfalls; now, hiking and boat trips are the best ways to visit the park.
We were lucky enough to stay with a local family in the tiny village of Raslina not far from Zaton. Two convenience stores, a pizza restaurant, and a small harbor define the commercial activity of Raslina. It’s a sleepy town, buzzing with cicadas at 
mid-day. Many of the homes bear mortar marks from shelling during the conflict of the 1990s. A narrow strip of rocky beach provides Raslina’s main entertainment. Few permanent residents remain in this village; it’s now a summer getaway for middle-class Croatians. Children leap from the dock into the choppy water. Their parents paddle languidly and return to shore for sunbathing. In one corner of the beach, a few teens with long hair sit in the back of a pickup, blasting heavy metal music.
Old men chuck bocce balls on a single court in the center of town; the adjacent bar has built a beer tap in the court, so that players can quaff without ever leaving the game. The old men sit there for hours, drinking beers, smoking endless cigarettes, tossing balls with a listless intensity. They are the old vanguard, the lifelong residents of this increasingly transient town. They give this place its character; rather than being a playground for international tourists, the Šibenik estuary is a truly Croatian place to vacation.
Written by Caitlin Dwyer and Photos by Matt Bozigar for EuropeUpClose.com