Mini Travel Guides

If Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian islands are Croatia’s debutantes, then the Šibenik Riviera is an elegant elder cousin.  With a bit more reserve and a bit less bling, the region still shows its Croatian genes: sunshine and ocean, seafood and an enduring local culture. The shore is lined with quiet towns where vacationing Croatian families swim and cook, escaping the inland heat for a few weeks each summer.

Though vying to join Croatia’s tourist renaissance, many of these towns still retain their workaday character. The island of Primošten has one of the more developed tourist economies in the Šibenik region, with beaches, nightlife, and a summer arts festival.  More as a testament to perseverance than taste, taverns serve babic wine, the local vintage whose grapes are grown on the rocks of the island.

We had coffee in Zaton, a tiny bay rimmed by cafes and leafy trees. With mostly fishermen and farmers, Zaton seems as if it has remained unchanged for generations. Fishing boats, hulls dented and scraped, rock in the harbor. The tiny post office sells CDs by Croatian popular singers; the postmaster will happily play a sample track for tourists.

The biggest city in the region, Šibenik, is a maze of stone. From hilltop to the water, the old city slowly descends downhill; curving, shallow staircases connect upper and lower levels. The streets feel as if they’ve been dug out in the narrows between buildings. Like many Croatian towns, Šibenik has embraced development within the architecture of the past. An icon of such history, the Cathedral of St. James stands in the center of town. A chalky gray dome juts above the surrounding tile roofs, asserting its somber, simple lines into the landscape. The UNESCO heritage site is one of Croatia’s only Renaissance cathedrals.

On a hill overlooking the city stands the Fortress of St. Michael. Now largely in ruins, the fortress ascends through multiple levels, up rickety staircases, before a view opens out to reveal the Cathedral’s gray dome, the irregular geometry of red roofs, and the opaque blue of the bay.

Sprinkled with islands – some habited, some wild – the estuary has a unique half-salt, half-fresh water consistency. In Krka National Park, the fresh Krka River cascades into the Adriatic. Just a few years ago, visitors could swim out to the waterfalls; now, hiking and boat trips are the best ways to visit the park.

We were lucky enough to stay with a local family in the tiny village of Raslina not far from Zaton. Two convenience stores, a pizza restaurant, and a small harbor define the commercial activity of Raslina. It’s a sleepy town, buzzing with cicadas at mid-day. Many of the homes bear mortar marks from shelling during the conflict of the 1990s. A narrow strip of rocky beach provides Raslina’s main entertainment. Few permanent residents remain in this village; it’s now a summer getaway for middle-class Croatians.  Children leap from the dock into the choppy water. Their parents paddle languidly and return to shore for sunbathing.  In one corner of the beach, a few teens with long hair sit in the back of a pickup, blasting heavy metal music.

Old men chuck bocce balls on a single court in the center of town; the adjacent bar has built a beer tap in the court, so that players can quaff without ever leaving the game. The old men sit there for hours, drinking beers, smoking endless cigarettes, tossing balls with a listless intensity. They are the old vanguard, the lifelong residents of this increasingly transient town. They give this place its character; rather than being a playground for international tourists, the Šibenik estuary is a truly Croatian place to vacation.

Written by Caitlin Dwyer and Photos by Matt Bozigar for EuropeUpClose.com

One of the most pleasant spots you’ll come across when exploring Pula attractions is the ancient core of  the town’s main square. Also known as Forum, this square has been the centre of town activity since the 1st century.

The Forum was an important religious and administrative address during the Roman era. Remnants from the time continue to be the highlight of square even today, drawing in thousands of tourists.

Back then the square housed Roman temples – of particular importance were the twin temples. One was dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva while the other was built in the honour of Augustus. The latter, luckily, continues to command just as much awe as back in the day, as it stands fully preserved.

Another important landmark is the Communal Palace. For years it has been the seat of government, run by the Romans and Venetians, and even by the current regime. As the mayoral seat, it continues to influence the town’s administrative and legislative landscape.

The ancient buildings play the perfect backdrop to the many cafes that line the square. It is also the location for many cultural events and festivities especially during the summer months. You can also go on Karen’s photo and video tour of Pula and read Jason’s Pula – The other side of Croatia.

If you’re planning a trip to Pula you can find the best hotels deals using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Visiting the Main Square in Pula, Croatia

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Bol used to be a small isolated fishing village on the island of Brac in Croatia. Now it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country, visited mainly for its many beaches. Given its location – flanked by mountain and sea, the town enjoy a great climate and a picturesque landscape.

The Water – Like the other stops on the Adriatic, the sea is the main point of interest in Bol too. The town is lined by pebbled beaches – the most popular being Zlatni Rat – that offer the perfect opportunity to sunbathe, swim, sail and indulge in various water based activities like windsurfing, snorkelling and scuba diving; there are a number of underwater caves and shipwrecks to explore in these parts. Rental boats and other water sport equipment are available along the beaches, as are beach chairs and a constant supply of beer.

An Art Walk – Walking along the waterfront opens up a great sea view. It also doubles up as an art walk. One of the quirky aspects of the town is that the waterfront is peppered with interesting (sometimes complex, but never boring) stone sculptures. For the art inclined, this walk leads to Bol’s Branislav Deskovic Gallery. Not only is this a historic Renaissance town house, it also houses over 250 works of art by some of the most prominent Croatian artists like Ivan Mestrovic and Edo Murtic.

Nightlife – Post sundown the party in Bol moves from the beaches to the shore. There are a number of cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs to choose from, particularly along the promenade. During the summer months when every establishment is open for business, the lively beats of pop hits can be felt all along the town, through the night and into the early morning.

The easiest way to reach Bol is on the local ferry line or via taxi boats from other high profile Croatian stops including Split.

Being on the tourist trail, Bol has a variety of accommodation options, the HotelsCombined price comparison site can help you quickly find the best deal.

Croatian Attraction – Bol on the island of Brac

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Fort Lovrijenac is a Dubrovnik landmark that isn’t located within the city walls. It can be seen from along the walls over the Pile Gate, and is one of the most photographed landmarks in the city.

The fort was built to defend the ancient kingdom against the advancing Venetian army. Its walls are 121 feet high, and overlook the water. Entry to the Fort is included within the price of the wall tours.

A Different Perspective – Most tourists scale the Dubrovnik city walls for views of the city, which includes Fort Lovrijenac. But for a different angle, walk the short distance from the Pile Gate to the Fort and enjoy a fresh look at Dubrovnik’s old core. While the tower interiors are plain, the views are worth the climb.

Drama on the Adriatic – The Fort Lovrijenac is one of the most important venues during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. At this time the Fort transforms into a theatrical venue. It is best known for staging productions of Shakespeare, particularly Hamlet, in addition to other regional and internationally renowned plays.

A Stage for a Wedding – The fort doubles up as a wedding venue too. With the lapping water and towering history, it is a very romantic setting. It has an on location chapel (chapel of St. Lawrence) and its courtyard, which is also the stage for theatrical performances, hosts wedding parties. The Fort stairways too have become an iconic setting for the perfect ‘newly weds’ photograph.

Other Dubrovnik attractions worth visiting are the Morning Market, the Rector’s Palace and Stradun.  If you’re planning a trip to this Croatian city, you can find the best deals on Dubrovnik hotels using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Dubrovnik Attractions – Fort Lovrijenac

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It was literally a hole in the wall.  But the nameless bar, advertised only by a wooden sign reading “COLD DRINKS,” had a spectacular setting: perched on a fifteen-foot ledge outside the medieval walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia.  Rocks fell away into the ocean; a few meters below, skinny kids were diving off into the green-blue water.  A yacht idled in the bay while kayaks splashed around its hull.

As the premiere tourist destination on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik has plenty to recommend it: warm, swimmable, salty water; restaurants tucked into back alleys; a relaxed pace of life; fresh seafood.  Tourists have certainly discovered its charms; at night, the old city teems with both foreign and domestic tourists, sharply-dressed and high-heeled.  Outdoor cafes cater to the beach-weary crowd, while clubs thump in the upper reaches for a younger set.

Dubrovnik has gained its fame because of its walled city, a UNESCO heritage site.  The winding stone streets, reminiscent of Siena or Hania, ooze old-world charm.  Staircases climb between buildings, revealing alleys strung with laundry, apartment buildings, and 7th century fortifications.  While the main streets have been taken over by sandal and gelato shops, old Dubrovnik still has plenty of undiscovered back passages.

We took a midday walk around the city ramparts.  Red tile roofs spread out below us.  We could peer down into courtyards, or off the far side into the clear water, several hundred feet below.  Rigged-up sailboats were heading out to the nearby Elafiti islands to beach-hop for the afternoon.

Outside of the old city, Dubrovnik has a beach-town atmosphere.  In the Lapad neighborhood, a pebbly beach provides a social gathering point for locals. Slathered in sunlight, bathers occasionally lower themselves into the sea for relief from the heat.  Off the rocks on the far side, we leaped into the water alongside some elderly Croatians; they paddled around us, amused by our enthusiasm.  We stayed in the silky water until our bodies wrinkled.

The Lapad boardwalk leads down to the beach.  Lined with restaurants and vendors of beach toys, it offers a subdued alternative to the old city.  Men sit smoking on the fountain walls; toddlers splash in the water.  A creperie-on-wheels fixes quick Nutella pancakes, wrapped in paper and topped with a dollop of cream.

In this easy ambience, it is hard to imagine that Croatia was recently part of war-torn Yugoslavia.  While tourism has helped Croatia’s economy to rebound, the faces of its people still show an unusual weariness: the reserve and endurance of a nation that underwent immense change.  Blessed with the natural beauty of their coastline, Croatians have harnessed tourist income to transform their country into a modern European nation; and Dubrovnik is the premiere example of this new fresh, vibrant face.

Written by Caitlin Dwyer for EuropeUpClose.com

Autumn, or Jensen, as it is known here, is my favourite time to travel around Croatia. I find everything, right from the colours and sights to the service better during this quieter period.

1. Cool and Red

The temperatures are known to soar during late July and August. It’s perfect if you mean to flop on a beach through your stay, but if you are planning on some sightseeing, it can get really hot and uncomfortable. Autumn on the other hand is just perfect. The heat has been watered down, and the bitter winter winds are still a few months away. The temperatures are in the low 20s and the leaves are red.

2. No More Summer Crowds

During the summer months thousand of visitors make their way to Croatia. As a result highways, hotels and beaches are permanently clogged. This makes for a pretty great party atmosphere, but if you are anything like me, you may prefer some peace and quiet and the chance to explore the place at your own pace. Come September, the crowds begin to filter out and this makes the country a whole lot roomier.

3. Cost Effective

Like most popular tourist destinations, prices along the Croatian coast tend to inflate during the peak season. At times the prices are plain ridiculous. But post September many establishments return to more acceptable off-season prices. I also find the service during this time is much better as compared to that offered by hassled, disinterested summer hires. The other thing to consider is accommodation. During the summer months, the best deals get snapped up beforehand, and in winter, many hotels and boarding facilities shut for the season. This makes autumn the best time to score a good deal without stress.

When do you think is the best time to visit Croatia?

Croatia in Autumn – Best Time to Visit?

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The Maksimir Park is the largest green space in Zagreb city. It is named after Bishop Maksimilijan Vrhovac, the man who was first responsible for establishing the park in 1794. At the time the park was set up it was on the outskirts of the city, today it is part of suburban Zagreb.

This Zagreb attraction has always been a very popular stop in the city; it’s my Zagreb travel tip for this week.

Photo By ruscca

A Green Space – Maksimir Park is a much loved urban escape. It is a sprawling green complex with nooks and corners, lakes and walkways, benches and trails. The traffic sounds coming in from the park boundary are dulled by the thick tree cover and flowing water, ensuring peace and quiet. This Zagreb park is located right opposite a large football stadium, which hosts local and international football events as well as concerts. At such times the thousands of spectators also use the park as the perfect waiting area, both before and after the events.

A Running Track – Maksimir Park is very popular with joggers, runners and even cyclists as the park provides a safe, continuous, and picturesque track. People come in from all over the city to take advantage of this very setting. The park is well connected by the local tram service (take tram no.11 from the Main Square to the Park).

A Pleasant Coffee Break – Maksimir Park is a great coffee place. There are several cafes within the complex that serve good coffee and even better views. If cafes aren’t your thing, find the closest ice-cream vendor and head to an empty bench.

The Zoo – The Zoo is a more recent addition to the Park, and is very popular with young families. There are a number of large (lions, bears, cheetah, bison) and small animals, including endangered species. Of particular interest are the feeding sessions; the sea lion feeding time usually draws quite a crowd. Entry to the zoo is from within the park; tickets (30 Kuna) can be purchased at the zoo entrance.

Photo by Landii

Holiday Concerts – During the summer months (particularly Saturdays) and on bank holidays the park hosts small music concerts. These concerts are free and can be enjoyed by everyone. For more information about the park and the park’s events calendar for the park, head to the information centre located in the Gatekeeper’s cabin, close to the park entrance.

If you’re planning a trip to the Croatian capital, you can find the lowest prices at hotels in Zagreb with the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Five Reasons to Visit Zagreb’s Maksimir Park

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After you’ve explored Dubrovnik’s old town, it’s time to explore the surrounding regions. Dubrovnik is within close proximity of a number of beautiful islands and towns, where you can enjoy natural beauty, history and culture, and the best local food and wine. Here are my tips for Dubrovnik day trips.

The Peljesac Peninsula – The first day trip destination on the list is the nearby Peljesac Peninsula. Known for its vineyards and olive groves, the most popular activity here is wine tasting. There are a number of commercial and family owned vineyards, and many are open to wine tours. You can sign up for a tour group from Dubrovnik or make your own way by bus or ferry.

Elaphite Islands – The Elaphite Islands are another popular day trip from Dubrovnik. These are a group of 14 islands, out of which only the three main islands – Sipan, Lopud and Kolocep – are populated. The Elaphite Islands are known for their beautiful beaches, bays and coves. To get to the Elaphite Islands, sign up for a tour cruise or use the ferry service to from Dubrovnik.

Island of Mljet – Nature lovers should make their way to the island of Mljet. Though the island is a little further off from some of the other stops, this is the place to enjoy local flora and fauna. In fact a part of the island is a designated National Park. other activities on offer include biking, trekking, rafting and kayaking. You can reach Mljet by catamaran and daily ferries that operate on this route. Check local listing for seasonal schedules.

Korcula Island – The walled town of Korcula makes for an enjoyable day trip. However, I highly recommend you schedule more than just one day for Korcula, and explore the rest of the island too. Read more about Korcula here.

Bosnia and Herzegovina – Another interesting excursion from Dubrovnik is to the neighbouring country of Bosnia-Herzegovina. The town of Mostar in particular is easily accessible from Dubrovnik. The region is known for its local history and culture; Bosnia enjoys a unique cultural mix that gels Turkish influence with the Balkan way of life. Daily buses run from Dubrovnik to Mostar and Sarajevo. Be sure to carry your passport and other vital documentation when heading across the border.

Do you have Dubrovnik day trips to recommend?

Day Trips from Dubrovnik

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If you don’t have too much time to spend in Dubrovnik, the city’s main street, Stradun, is where you hit the ground running to start your Dubrovnik sightseeing. The street runs from the Pile Gate to the Ploce Gate and is lined with Dubrovnik attractions, atmosphere and activity:

The Large Onofrio Fountain – The large Onofrio fountain is located very close to the Pile Gate. It was constructed in 1438 to source water for the city from the Dubrovacka River located 12km over. This is a great place to enjoy street artists and to catch a breath.

The Stairway to the Walls – The Pile Gate is also where you can begin your tour of the ramparts.  One set of stairs begin right opposite the fountain; the tickets for the wall tour are available at the tourist office, located on the other side of the fountain.

The Stepping Stone – While sitting at the fountain you’ll see a number of tourists jumping onto a small stone jutting from the monastery wall, or trying to. The challenge is to get there without support. Given the stone isn’t wide enough, this can be a very entertaining spot.

Franciscan Monastery – The Franciscan Monastery is one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. It  has been filling up prescription since 1317. You can learn more about the time at the pharmacy museum inside.

The Sponza Palace – The Sponza Palace was once the local mint. Today it doubles up as a city archive and exhibition hall. Of particular interest is the Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders, in memory of soldiers who lost their lives during the war.

The Bell Tower – The bell tower closes or frames out one end of Stradun. It is located between the Ploce Gate and the St. Blaise Church. Be sure to catch the two green bronze structures, the Dubrovnik twins, ringing the bell every hour.

Orlando’s Column– Orlando’s Column on the Luza Square was put in place in the 15^th century as a symbol of the kingdom’s independence. Back then it was the point of public gatherings, today it is a focal meeting point in the city.

St. Blaise Church – At the edge of the street is the St. Blaise Church. It was built in honour of the patron saint, and he can be found standing over the church and in the church. The stained glass windows, the newest addition to the church, are worth seeing post sundown.

The other attractions on Stradun are the fancy cafes and boutiques. However, it is important to keep in mind that these establishments can pack quite a punch on the wallet.

Stradun – The Heart of Dubrovnik

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Grožnjan is one of my favourite stops in Croatia, particularly in the warm months, when the artists are at work. The town is best seen ducking in and out of studios and galleries, and shopping is one of the most enjoyable things to do in Grozhjan..

My tips for Groznjan shopping.

Jewellery – There are a number of jewellery workshops and studios around Grožnjan that specialize in both contemporary and traditional jewellery. Depending on the materials used and the designs, these pieces could set you back by anything between 50 Kuna to well over 500 Kuna. Don’t buy the first piece you see. Considering how small Grožnjan is, first take a tour of the place, walk into other jewellery stores and once you’ve seen them all and compared prices and styles, pick the one(s) that works for you the best.

Art – A number of artists spend their summers in Grožnjan, and a number of art studios double up as galleries. There is a great mix of styles available in Grožnjan, from local landscape to naive art and even innovative media. Since entry is free, go ahead and visit as many as you can. Walk in, watch the artists at work, browse through an impressive collection and if  one catches your fancy, help the artist put a little red dot next to it.

Wine – Along with a number of wine bars there are also a number of little boutiques and stores where you can purchase the finest Istrian wines. Istria is known as Croatia’s wine country and prides itself for the quality of wines produced. Treat yourself to a bottle, and if you are looking for a special souvenir, these make for great gifts too.

Souvenirs – Instead of spending your time and money at the tacky souvenir stalls in the bigger towns, consider purchasing unique handcrafted souvenirs at some of the local studios in Grožnjan. For one, these souvenirs are authentic made-in-Croatia-items, for another you’ll be helping out a local artist.

For a closer look at Grožnjan, take a look at Karen’s video here.

Shopping in Grožnjan, Croatia

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