Mini Travel Guides

Farringdon isn’t short of an excellent pub or three. But there is one that stands out for me, above all the rest (and on the whole, the rest are nothing short of brilliant). The Gunmakers, tucked away on Eyre Street Hill is the perfect London pub.

It’s all about the real ale here, although you will get a decent class of wine as well. But you won’t get lager on tap, you won’t get quiz machines and you definitely won’t get peanuts in bowls. This is a real boozer, and a great one. The ale is well kept, and the choice changes often. There’s always regular ales, but the selection means that there’s always something new to try. And people do try, you’ll find standing room only on a Friday night, and the rest of the week is pretty busy too.

And then there’s the food. Which could have so easily have gone down the whole gastropub route. But instead of that, it’s just good, simple pub food. Really good, actually. Think whacking great steaks cooked simply and crumbles for afters.

The staff are friendly, the locals love the place, it’s the kind of pub that you can have a beer in on your own, or stay all night if you want to. It’s my favourite pub in the whole of London, and if you’re a real ale drinker, I’m sure you’ll love it here. It’s a local gem in a busy area. And even though it’s not easy for newbies to find, that doesn’t stop the crowd from spilling out onto the street. But it’s just as fun on quiet days, although they’re rare.

The only thing I don’t like? It (like most pubs in the area) doesn’t open on weekends. Which means I just have to cope with the mid-week hangover. It’s worth it.

One of London’s best pubs? – The Gunmakers

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Vieste, on the Gargano peninsula in Puglia,  is one of my top European travel tips, offering beautiful architecture, great weather, stunning coastlines, numerous nearby beaches and – to make it an even more attractive – a lively daily food market guaranteed to tempt your stomach.

I love to get a feel for a new destination by shopping for local specialities and the Vieste market, just at the edge of the new town’s Via XXIV maggio, is a great place to purchase Puglia produce, including olives, olive oil and sun-dried tomatoes.

Regional salami and cheeses are also good items to bring back home. These “donuts” of smoked mozzarella made from the milk of water buffalo are excellent and travel well.

Or you could try the “Vieste Bomb”, encrusted in spicy peperoncino.

Speaking of peperoncino, buy it here, along with garlic and wonderful dried parsley.

There are also excellent strong, red wines in the region and limoncino, a strong, sweet digestive, originally from the Campania region, but also common in Puglia.

You will have to leave the market and make your way to one of the many bakeries to buy the excellent bread and local desserts, such as the Kluster (photo below). Apparently, the name of this dessert changes from town to town in the region, along with the numerous regional dialects. The pastry base is a crispy, fried dough, topped by mixed nuts and a sinfully rich fig syrup. Yes, it’s as good as it sounds.

So along with the art and architecture and the surf and sand, set aside some time for the Vieste market and some culinary sightseeing. The downside is that you may wind up filling your suitcase to bursting with all your delectable purchases. The upside is that you can literally take a piece of your vacation destination home with you … enjoying the delicacies of Puglia around your dining room table.

Tempting your stomach at the outdoor market in Vieste, Puglia

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I might be a south London girl, but if I’m honest, I’m a snobby one. I live near Greenwich (nope, not even the posh bit) and I’m rather happy in the nice leafy parts of south London. Not Peckham. I had no idea until last weekend that Peckham Rye had nice leafy parts as well. With excellent pubs and very good food.

I was actually here to visit Frank’s Cafe. An amazing bar on top of the multistory carpack by the station (not easy to find). The cafe has closed for Summer, but you can still pop up and see the sunset and that’s well worth doing. Even if it’s freezing.

And then down a pretty little side street is the Victoria Inn. A wonderful surprise after you’ve walked down the high street and seen all of the foodstalls and crowds. It gets very busy. And the small of acrylic from the nail salons is amazing. A little bit like Magic Markers. Ahem.

Oh, yes, the pub. It’s a little gem. Totally unexpected. The kind of gastropub that you’d expect to find in Greenwich or further into yummy mummy Dulwich. All cosy tables and an open kitchen where they serve up some excellent food. I’ve never had a fancy Scotch egg before, but the chorizo ones that they dish up here are amazing. Skin-on chips and alioli are excellent. Everyone went crazy for the breaded halloumi, but I wasn’t convinced (because I don’t like halloumi – that’s not their fault). All excellent bar snacks, and we ordered more than one round of chips throughout the night. Snacks were wavering between £3 and £5 if I remember rightly.

We stayed here much longer than we were planning. There’s some really nice touches to this place that make you want to stick around. The jugs of water on the bar, the smiley (attractive) staff. The wine that’s served in a litre carafe rather than in a bottle (£18 for a rather tasty plonk). It’s warm, it’s cosy but it’s still big enough to not be overcrowded on a Saturday. In fact, at 10pm on the evening I was shocked the place wasn’t entirely packed out.

I really like this London pub, and I’ll definitely come back. Would I make a special trip to Peckham for it? Perhaps. If I was in that part of town, it would be the first place I came. I really really want to work my way through the rest of the food menu.

The Victoria Inn is on Chourmet Road, just five minutes from Peckham Rye Station. Wine image from Andreas Kollegger‘s photostream. Skyline image by yours truly.

London Pub Review: The Victoria Inn, Peckham Rye

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I’m about to tell you of my favourite secret restaurant in London. Le Mercury isn’t the easiest place to get to, right at the back end of Upper Street in Islington but if you do come here, it’s so very worth the walk. It’s also worth getting a bus. But once you do arrive, you’re in one of the best local restaurants in London.

Le Mercury is a French restaurant where nothing is over priced. In fact, I’m amazed at how cheap it is. Sure, you’re not getting gourmet here. But for £3.95 a starter £7.95 for a main and £3.95 for a dessert, I think you’ll expect that. You’re paying cheap put grub prices in a nice place. The food doesn’t ever feel cheap. Great vegetarian options too. I’ve never had a bad course here.

Favourites for me are the lobster ravioli starter. How that starter is only £3.95 I don’t know. I’m absolutely certain it’s not frozen. Fantastic food. And the steak, whilst it’s not the best steak you’ll ever have is really good for the price you pay. It’s nice having bubbly with your dinner if you feel like it. It’s affordable here so if you’re celebrating, you can get a little more tipsy than usual without feeling guilty. The wine is good too. More of that please.

The restaurant itself is traditional, nothing to shout about but nice enough. Kinda romantic actually. Service can be a little brisk, but they tend to just leave you to your evening. I come here for catch ups with lovely people, so it’s not ever an issue that you don’t order within seconds of sitting down. Not when you’re busy eating all the amazing fresh bread anyway. They also don’t rush you. It’s a deceptively big place, so you’re not shoved out of the door as soon as you’ve put down your knife and fork. They stay open until 2am at the weekends so if you’ve been to the cinema, you can still get dinner afterwards. I love that about them actually. How many times have you come out of watching a film and everywhere has stopped serving?

Le Mercury won’t win any awards for fine dining. What it will do is feed you very very well, get you a little bit tipsy and leave you change from a £20 note. I don’t know of many places in London that can do that in such a nice setting. If you do, please tell me. In the meantime, it’s completely worth the trek to Islington from South London.

Flickr image from tobiastoft‘s photostream.

Le Mercury Restaurant, London

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Provence’s interior has so many lovely hill towns and stunning nature , that visitors are forgiven for not wanting to jeopardize a tranquil holiday with the hustle and bustle of larger towns. Yet Avignon, Arles and Aix-en-Provence make my A-list of Provence towns, as they’re all great European destinations.

Avignon

This monumental city is a joy to discover, starting from its fortress-like city walls. Avignon’s importance derives from its role as the medieval Rome. For a period of 70 years, beginning with Pope Clement V’s flight from Italy in 1309, Avignon served as the seat of the papacy.

The Palais des Papes is a must on any visit to Avignon and there are both guided and self-guided tours through the Provençal Vatican. Tickets also include entrance to the 12^th century bridge, which spans just over half of the Rhône River (damage was a direct result of sieges and flooding) and provides stunning views of the town.

Thomas has already written about the excellent Festival d’Avignon , founded in 1946 and held each year in July.

Arles

Arles is a pleasant town, just at the edge of the interesting Camargue National Park. The city center has enviable Roman ruins, including the best-known, les Arènes. Although this Roman amphitheatre is missing a level, it is still in excellent condition and used for performances during the summer. In addition to the amphitheatre, be sure to also visit the Roman theatre and the Roman baths.

Photo courtesy of Web-provence website

Arles is also famous for its one-time resident, the Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh moved to Arles from Paris in 1888. His was influenced tremendously by the bright colours and strong sunlight in southern France and much of his most beloved paintings were done during this productive period in Arles.

It was to Arles that Van Gogh enticed the artist Paul Gauguin, with the hope of creating a type of artistic fraternity in Provence. Unfortunately, tensions ran high between VanGogh and Gauguin, most notably in the fight between them that led to Van Gogh famously slicing off part of his ear on December 23, 1888, resulting in  his subsequent committal to an asylum in nearby St Rémy de Provence.

Unfortunately, VanGogh’s rented “Yellow House” has survived only in his paintings. The building was bombed and destroyed during World War II. Yet the café immortalized in one of VanGogh’s most recognizable paintings, Café  Terrace at Night, is still active today as the Café VanGogh and attracts numerous visitors. Enjoy a coffee in this lovely spot.

Aix-en-Provence

This pretty, small city is just 25 kilometers north of the seaside city of Marseilles. Its elegant old town is charming and was once home to artist Paul Cézanne and author Emile Zola. There are no must-see museums or sites in this pleasant city, although you can’t help but be enthralled as you wander its lovely streets and relax on one of its perfect little squares. Be sure to note the numerous, picturesque fountains. There are about 40 of them in the old town and the carvings are often whimsical.

Numerous French and foreign students call Aix home. The university was founded in 1409 and the tradition is still going strong; the university also has a popular programme for foreigners studying French. Aix is also the home to a lively weekly market.

Enjoy your visit to these lovely towns – some of the best places to visit in Europe – on your next trip to Provence. Do you have any Provence travel tips to offer readers?

Three A-list towns in Provence: Avignon, Arles, and Aix

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If you are visiting Rome and doing it right, there is no reason you should be feeling hungry between meals. Nevertheless, to be fully versed in Rome’s food culture, no visit to this European City is complete without a stop at Volpetti, on Via Marmorata in the Testaccio neighborhood.

Be sure to stop in and have a look around. Volpetti has a wide selection of prosciutto,  bresoala, sausages, mozzarella, cheeses, pasta, gnocchi, wines and preserves. You can also have sandwiches made to take on a picnic lunch.

There are also torte rustiche, pastas and appetizers that you can take home for a delicious dinner.

Romans love their fried antipasti, especially fried baccalà and  fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers), as well as the arrancini, balls of rice. All of these Roman favourites can be purchased prepared, ready to be fried up in your kitchen.

Just around the corner from the shop is Volpetti più, open for lunch and dinner Monday – Saturday. This is a tavola calda (cafeteria), where you can select what you want to eat (pastas, lasagne, fried specialties, meatballs, cheeses, pizza) in a casual setting. Prices are reasonable.

It’s a great place to stop to eat if you are visiting attractions nearby like the Museum Centrale di Montemartini or the Protestant Cemetery . Buon appetito!

Volpetti is located on Via Marmorata, 47. Volpetti più is on Via Alessandro Volta, 8, just around the corner from the main shop is open Monday to Saturday from 10:30 - 15: 30 and from 17:30 – 21:30

When in Rome: Volpetti delicatessen

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Europhiles who love shellfish, particularly oysters and mussels, Cancale has to be the best place in Europe to get your fix! And that is exactly what I did last week!

The fishing Village of Cancale, northern Brittany.

Cancale is a small fishing village on the northern Brittany coast, often referred to as the ‘oyster capital’ of Brittany. Apparently, Louis XIV had his oysters taken to Versailles from Cancale. Today, oyster and mussel farming are still the predominant activity in this picturesque fishing village. Well, that, and the numerous restaurants that then serve these locally-grown shellfish to the many tourists that come to the village each year.

Cancale’s oyster beds.

Cancale is perfect for growing mussels and oysters because it is an east-facing bay. The bay is protected from the strong winds that frequently lash the northern Brittany coast. So you do not end up eating a good portion of the Brittany coastline every time you have an oyster.

Oysters – the original fast food.

The seafront has many restaurants all offering fresh, local shellfish with specialities such as Fruits de Mer, at very reasonable prices. But, there is no need to go to a restaurant, unless of course you want to. There are also always a number of vendors, literally on the seaside, who sell fresh oysters for eating there and then, or to be taken away. The vendors will prepare a plate of twelve oysters and a lemon – some will even sell you a plastic cup of white wine – for just 4 Euros. This is a far cry from some of the European cities where you will pay upwards of 3 Euros per oyster! I was somewhat bemused when I was told to ‘eat the oysters, throw the shells into the sea, and return the used lemon and empty plate’.

Enjoying a few oysters myself; the oyster beds picture above are just behind me.

Oysters, straight from the sea at Cancale, northern Brittany

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When visiting Seville, eating out can be a chew up a large part of your travel budget.  Whether you eat tapas or enjoy a nice restaurant, the cost of food can add up quickly. Here are my tips for cheap eats in Seville, so you’ll have more money to spend on Seville attractions such as the Alcazar, the Cathedral, the Bascilica de la Macarena, the Barrio Santa Cruz, and Flamenco dancing.

This isn’t to say eating cheaply means eating poorly.  You can find some healthy meals while enjoying unique, local experiences in Spain when you are traveling.  Eating cheaply means going where many tourists aren’t going.  Eating cheaply can mean sharing a few tapas and making it a meal rather than going to a restaurant.  While there are many options out there, here are a few places to find some cheap meals, and great experiences.

Seville University (Credit: Ronan Crowley)

The local university - While in Seville, take a walk around the university.  Universities and colleges are fascinating places to explore and see what life is like for young people.  While wandering through the university, we stumbled upon a cafe filled with university students grabbing a bite between classes.  We decided to try it out and had a couple of chicken sandwiches and a drink for less than 10 euros.  More importantly, it was fascinating to watch the students interact and just enjoy being college students.

El Corte Ingles – Seville (Credit: Metro Centric)

Department stores - In many countries, big chain department stores, like El Corte Ingles,  often have grocery stores on one of the floors.  Wandering through the aisles to see all the foods that Spanish people eat is quite an experience – some are familiar while others are quite foreign.  Buying bread, meat, fruits, and vegetables can be a great way to sample Spanish food, see how the locals eat, stock up for a picnic, and save money.  Not only can you get a cheap meal but you can also buy plenty of healthy snacks to help you save money as well.

Cheap meal – Chinese food in Spain (Credit: Jeremy Branham)

Cheap restaurants - Not all restaurants are expensive.  Wandering through certain neighborhoods, you can check out the menus and what the daily specials are to see what they have to offer.  While wandering near the Cathedral, we stopped at a local Chinese restaurant and had fried rice, an egg roll, chicken with almonds, a drink, and a dessert for 6.50 Euro.  Not only was it a cheap meal, it was good as well.  We were the only ones in the restaurant and it was a great experience to hear Chinese people speaking Spanish.

Enjoy some of the great restaurants and food that this Andalusian city has to offer.  However, if you want to save money,  you can take my Seville budget travel tips.

If you’re planning a trip to Seville, find the best rates at hotels in Seville, with the HotelsCombined price comparison site, which quickly looks through the databases for more than 30 accommodation suppliers to find the best deal for you.

Eating cheaply in Seville

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Eating at restaurants in Sweden can be expensive.  Very expensive.  Too many times I have looked at the bill only to start converting in my head to find I paid two or three times what I would have in the US.  It’s a horrible habit and one that I have to break.  At the same time, it helps me to find meals that are worth eating without feeling like I’ve thrown away money as I convert from kronors to dollars.

Swedish pea soup by VirtualEm

That’s what makes dagens lunch (the day’s lunch) so great as a Swedish budget travel tip.  Every day, restaurants throughout Sweden offer a set menu for a very reasonable price.  It’s one of the few opportunities for cheap meals in Sweden.  It usually includes a salad, bread, a drink, the main course, as well as coffee.  But it’s Thursdays that stand out.  Because nearly every Thursday you’ll find pea soup and pancakes on the menu.

It sounds like a horrible combination. And let’s be honest, pea soup is not the most visually appealing thing you can eat.  Despite the initial reaction of many, pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays is amazing.  The split pea soup is filled with ham and most people add a dollop of mustard for a little extra kick.  It is a national staple in Sweden that has been dominating Thursday menus in Sweden for generations.

The pancakes end up being a very filling dessert to follow the already filling pea soup.  Covered in whipped cream, either fresh berries or a berry jelly, and maybe a little sugar if you’re feeling adventurous, it’s a filling, and delicious, lunch.

Swedish pancakes stuffed with blueberries by norwichnuts

It’s not just restaurants that serve pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays.  The Swedish military eats it every Thursday.  Schools serve it.  Even your average Swedish household will make pea soup and pancakes on Thursday.  I, due to my complete inability to make a Swedish pancake that is not too thick or too burned, do not eat pea soup and pancakes at home on Thursdays.

Next time you’re looking for a reasonably priced meal on a Thursday in Sweden (and who amongst us doesn’t do that on a regular basis?) be sure to find the nearest dagens lunch deal and order the pea soup with pancakes.  You won’t be disappointed.  You won’t be hungry for the rest of the day either.

If you haven’t made it to Sweden yet, make your own pea soup and pancakes this Thursday.  Enjoy!

Picture by VirtualErn

Pea Soup and Pancakes – A Budget Swedish Culinary Delight

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Endless books and stories have been written about Turkish food which does not come as a surprise because this country with influences from many cultures has a sin fin of culinary delights to offer. Not only do the Turks treat their food with respect which means only fresh ingredients are used and nothing is boiled or fried to death, they also have an artistic nature which comes to the fore in the many concoctions that represent Turkish deserts.

When, of all people, my local bank manager told me that I hadn’t really been to Istanbul if I had never tasted a fish bun which is only served in Istanbul and only at the Galata bridge, I didn’t hesitate to make a beeline to the water on my next visit to Istanbul in search of a – so far – unknown delicacy.

Watch out for this sign and you have found the fish buns

I’ll eat anything that comes out of the water, mussels, oysters, shellfish, cold water fish, hot water fish even algae so my mouth was already watering when I got off the streetcar from Sultanahmed at the Eminönü  stop. Crossing over to the water front, you can’t really miss the ‘fish festival’ which takes place at the foot of the Galata bridge on the Eminönü side.

Brightly painted stalls with colourful attendants line the steps and the place before it and the signs announce the fish buns. Heat and smoke waves waft out of the stalls where huge filets of fish are sizzling on skillets.

This is where you get the drinks and condiments

The cooks, all in their embroidered costumes, use long tongs to flick the filets, then, when they are done, remove the spine and bones with incredible skill, slab the filet into a split open bun, add whatever seasoning or pickles you want and hey presto, you have a hot, fresh and delicious snack.

Fish bun cook and vendor

You can get either a cold drink or the obligatory glass of tea from other stalls and then you go and find a seat on haphazardly scattered around plastic chairs, the sea wall or the steps leading up to the bridge and enjoy. I have to admit, the bun was so good, I had another one.

Then I walked across the bridge towards Galata and watched the densely packed fishermen casting their rods into the Bosporus below and catching the fish to replace the one you have just consumed.

Fishermen on the Galata Bridge

Fresher impossible and a colourful, noisy and happy way of filling your stomach. To make matters even more picturesque, fish is not only grilled in the stalls but also in carved and gilded boats which are moored to the left of the bridge.

Floating fish bun restaurants

I can’t think of a healthier and cheaper snack. If you don’ like fish, don’t despair. The next gözleme, kebab, pide  or köfte is never far away.

Things to eat in Istanbul – Fish buns at the Galata Bridge

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