Eating at restaurants in Sweden can be expensive.  Very expensive.  Too many times I have looked at the bill only to start converting in my head to find I paid two or three times what I would have in the US.  It’s a horrible habit and one that I have to break.  At the same time, it helps me to find meals that are worth eating without feeling like I’ve thrown away money as I convert from kronors to dollars.

Swedish pea soup by VirtualEm

That’s what makes dagens lunch (the day’s lunch) so great as a Swedish budget travel tip.  Every day, restaurants throughout Sweden offer a set menu for a very reasonable price.  It’s one of the few opportunities for cheap meals in Sweden.  It usually includes a salad, bread, a drink, the main course, as well as coffee.  But it’s Thursdays that stand out.  Because nearly every Thursday you’ll find pea soup and pancakes on the menu.

It sounds like a horrible combination. And let’s be honest, pea soup is not the most visually appealing thing you can eat.  Despite the initial reaction of many, pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays is amazing.  The split pea soup is filled with ham and most people add a dollop of mustard for a little extra kick.  It is a national staple in Sweden that has been dominating Thursday menus in Sweden for generations.

The pancakes end up being a very filling dessert to follow the already filling pea soup.  Covered in whipped cream, either fresh berries or a berry jelly, and maybe a little sugar if you’re feeling adventurous, it’s a filling, and delicious, lunch.

Swedish pancakes stuffed with blueberries by norwichnuts

It’s not just restaurants that serve pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays.  The Swedish military eats it every Thursday.  Schools serve it.  Even your average Swedish household will make pea soup and pancakes on Thursday.  I, due to my complete inability to make a Swedish pancake that is not too thick or too burned, do not eat pea soup and pancakes at home on Thursdays.

Next time you’re looking for a reasonably priced meal on a Thursday in Sweden (and who amongst us doesn’t do that on a regular basis?) be sure to find the nearest dagens lunch deal and order the pea soup with pancakes.  You won’t be disappointed.  You won’t be hungry for the rest of the day either.

If you haven’t made it to Sweden yet, make your own pea soup and pancakes this Thursday.  Enjoy!

Picture by VirtualErn

Pea Soup and Pancakes – A Budget Swedish Culinary Delight

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Endless books and stories have been written about Turkish food which does not come as a surprise because this country with influences from many cultures has a sin fin of culinary delights to offer. Not only do the Turks treat their food with respect which means only fresh ingredients are used and nothing is boiled or fried to death, they also have an artistic nature which comes to the fore in the many concoctions that represent Turkish deserts.

When, of all people, my local bank manager told me that I hadn’t really been to Istanbul if I had never tasted a fish bun which is only served in Istanbul and only at the Galata bridge, I didn’t hesitate to make a beeline to the water on my next visit to Istanbul in search of a – so far – unknown delicacy.

Watch out for this sign and you have found the fish buns

I’ll eat anything that comes out of the water, mussels, oysters, shellfish, cold water fish, hot water fish even algae so my mouth was already watering when I got off the streetcar from Sultanahmed at the Eminönü  stop. Crossing over to the water front, you can’t really miss the ‘fish festival’ which takes place at the foot of the Galata bridge on the Eminönü side.

Brightly painted stalls with colourful attendants line the steps and the place before it and the signs announce the fish buns. Heat and smoke waves waft out of the stalls where huge filets of fish are sizzling on skillets.

This is where you get the drinks and condiments

The cooks, all in their embroidered costumes, use long tongs to flick the filets, then, when they are done, remove the spine and bones with incredible skill, slab the filet into a split open bun, add whatever seasoning or pickles you want and hey presto, you have a hot, fresh and delicious snack.

Fish bun cook and vendor

You can get either a cold drink or the obligatory glass of tea from other stalls and then you go and find a seat on haphazardly scattered around plastic chairs, the sea wall or the steps leading up to the bridge and enjoy. I have to admit, the bun was so good, I had another one.

Then I walked across the bridge towards Galata and watched the densely packed fishermen casting their rods into the Bosporus below and catching the fish to replace the one you have just consumed.

Fishermen on the Galata Bridge

Fresher impossible and a colourful, noisy and happy way of filling your stomach. To make matters even more picturesque, fish is not only grilled in the stalls but also in carved and gilded boats which are moored to the left of the bridge.

Floating fish bun restaurants

I can’t think of a healthier and cheaper snack. If you don’ like fish, don’t despair. The next gözleme, kebab, pide  or köfte is never far away.

Things to eat in Istanbul – Fish buns at the Galata Bridge

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

When I go on holiday, I like a bit of a mix. I love going off the usual track. I adore exploring new places and I will choose somewhere that isn’t ‘the norm’. But I also love being a tourist. And I hate the snobbery around it. Things become touristy because they’re good. They’re interesting. There’s something to look at. Call me boring if you must, but I want to go and see those places. Not all of them (usually the free ones), but what’s the harm in doing the popular stuff if you want to go?

Which brings me to Olde Hansa in Tallinn. One of the most popular restaurants in the city. And without a doubt, the most touristy. It’s a traditional restaurant, medieval in style and they go to town on the theme. And despite the fact that it’s rammed with tourists (like me), it’s excellent. Once you get past the method acting from the waitresses anyway.

The food is different. The decor beautiful. Yes, I do want to sit in a gorgeous old building by candlelight (although a little more would have been helpful). Would we like to try traditional root beer? Yes please! And everything will be tasty and different and the bulgar wheat dish will be amazing? OK then. Go for the meat dishes. And don’t be put off by the prices. The main courses come with all sorts of tasty goodies (even a little mini pie with beans) so you’re paying around £15 for your dinner with drinks.

Olde Hansa is an experience, without being tacky. Sure it’s packed so service was a bit slow, but it’s worth it. The traditional spiced wine we tried the next day was excellent. Yes, it was so good we went back. I’d recommend sitting outside if it’s sunny – old buildings and lack of air-con are not fun.

This won’t be the best restaurant you’ll ever eat in. But it’s really very good and the experience is worthwhile. Some tourist places are worth putting snootiness aside for. This one is a real treat.

Olde Hansa restaurant, Tallinn: Touristy but good

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

In London, we have the beloved Gordon’s Wine Bar. We adore Gordon’s, and rightly so. It’s a fabulous little spot, one of my favourites in London, despite it being a victim of its own success (and a well-timed Time Out article). But on a recent trip to Tallinn, I found myself in Gloria on Müürivahe. And it might just have pushed Gordon’s off the top of my ‘favourite wine bar’ list. Or, my favourite bars EVER list. It really is that special and it’s my top tip for visiting Estonia.

Gloria itself is actually all manner of things. It’s a fancy restaurant, with a teeny little guesthouse of only six rooms. There’s also a cigar bar. That’s a strange thing about Tallinn (or Estonia in general? I’m not sure). You can’t smoke in bars, but they do have designated cigar bars for that purpose, which is interesting. But, we were here for the bar. Which means going through the shop in the cellar.

And it’s a fabulous shop. If you didn’t know there was a wine bar behind it, you might never find it. And there’s something exciting about that, isn’t there? But we knew it was there, so we heading right for the little archway, not really sure what to expect.

What you get is rather special. Like finding a secret that no one knows about (we were the only ones in there, save for the waitress). There is not bar as such, well not that we found. Just a little maze of beautifully decorated rooms. Old photos, everywhere, lots of wood, lots of candle light. Tiny tables, little secret corners. Perfect for romancing. Or telling ghost stories.

The wine? Fantastic. Excellent glasses too, as you can see from that photo. The spirit glasses are beautiful. There are pricey options, but you can get a decent glass of red for under a fiver. You can get food here as well, but the menu is small. That said, they do use the same kitchen as the fancy restaurant, and it’s certainly much cheaper. The only downside is that the bar is closed on a Sunday (like a lot of bars in Tallinn), meaning I only got to come here once on my weekend away.

I’m already planning my next trip to Tallinn. Gloria wine bar has a lot to do with that. It’s nothing short of amazing. If you’re in this European city, go here.

If you’re planning a trip to Estonia, you can find the best deals at hotels in Tallin using the search box below.

Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

Tapas in London is good. Very good. If you avoid the La Tasca chain, anyway. But there are London tapas places that do it better than everyone else. Some that even rival the Spanish food in Spain. Here are my top Europe travel tips for finding the tastiest tapas in London. And of course, the best sangria.

Salt Yard, Fitzrovia, London by Ewan_M

Maison del Felipe: The Cut, Waterloo

Regarded by many as the best tapas in London. And it’s excellent. You’ll have trouble getting a seat, and you’ll often see the queue coming out of the door. But it is worth the wait. Go earlier in the week (and earlier in the evening) and you’ve got more chance to grab a couple of seats at the bar. Then just enjoy. Order whatever takes your fancy, try and speak Spanish to the friendly waiters (actually, don’t do that – they laugh at you) and listen to the live music.

Rebato’s: South Lambeth Street, Stockwell.

This is my personal favourite. Not just my favourite tapas place, this is my favourite restaurant in London. I adore it here. I’ve worked my way through the entire menu now and everything is good. It doesn’t matter how much you eat here, the bill never seems to be over £20 a head. The sangria is excellent, and you have to try the lamb chops and Mediterranean prawns. Just make sure you try the door if it looks closed, it very rarely is.

Salt Yard: Goodge Street, Fitzrovia

This place is more upmarket, but it’s also one of the best tapas restaurants in the area. You’ll pay more for your little plates, so it’s worth going for a special occasion (or going for lunch and putting it on office expenses). But you do get what you pay for. Make sure you get the pork belly, and enjoy a couple of glasses of wine.

Barcelona: Lime Street, Bank

Yes, this is a chain. But if it can keep my Spanish friends happy, that’s good enough for me. It’s tucked away down a tiny little street so make sure you’ve got a map. Their set meals make everything simple. You’ll pay £15 for enough food to keep you happy. If there’s a large group of you, get the paella as well. This place probably won’t change your life (if, indeed, you think tapas can change you life), but it’s a good little spot to remember.

Barrafina: Frith Street, Soho

If you’re in Soho and you’re looking for Spanish food, this is where you come. You’ll have to wait, but then you get to sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. This is a fancy place with a trendy crowd. And honestly, it’s worth the wait. Freshly prepared ingredients and amazing seafood. And, alas, a price tag to go with it.

If you’re a meat lover, here are my tips for London’s best steakhouses.

Got a favourite London tapas restaurant, tell us about it?

One of the highlights of visiting different European destinations is the culinary delights that many cities and countries have to offer.  For some people, food is one of the main reasons for traveling.

For some, this may mean eating authentic meals from some of their favorite places like pasta in Italy and paella in Spain.  For others, culinary exploration may lead to a more inquisitive taste for different foods that you don’t normally eat like escargot in France, criadillas in Spain (bull testicles), or blood pudding/sausage in the UK or Germany.

While many people love fine dining and eating at expensive restaurants for their favorite or strange foreign meals, eating out while traveling in Europe doesn’t need to cost a lot.  My Europe travel tip for finding good budget restaurants in Europe is to discover where locals go to eat and head there.  Many times these places are off the beaten path and away from touristy areas.  Often times, you will need to ask a local or know someone who lives there to find some of these great places.  While guidebooks are a great help, so is the courage to open your mouth and ask.

For many people, a great meal is a fine dining experience with a few stars attached to the restaurant name and a world renowned chef cooking their dinner.  While these are great, eating local foods doesn’t have to be expensive.  Just do a little research, get away from the tourist areas, ask, and follow the locals for lunch or dinner.

While in Madrid, we wandered upon a lunch buffet where many locals gathered to eat.  Lunch included a plate, a drink, a dessert, and as many trips as you want to enjoy pastas, salads, meats, and Spanish food at the buffet.  While eating at a buffet may not be a typical Spanish meal, it was surprisingly good. A lot of the food was fresh but the best part of the experience was the price and watching locals enjoy a meal during lunch.  While it wasn’t a typical Spanish meal, it was a chance to see how some Spanish people choose to eat lunch and go while still enjoying some local cuisine and favorite foods.

In Lisbon, a great sandwich spot was Casa das Sandes, the Portuguese version of Subway.  While eating a sandwich may not be a typical Portuguese meal, it was interesting to see what options they had for their sandwiches and how they were prepared.  Experiencing customer service, watching the preparation, and even how you pay for your food can be just as enjoyable and educational as the good itself.  It was nice to see that locals ate here as well and that you could do so at a good price.

When traveling, eating can be one of the highlights of the trip.  While many love to explore culinary tastes and dining experiences, not every meal has to cost a lot of money.  Eating at a local place during lunch away from the tourists can save you money (to splurge later on those big dining experiences), get you away from the tourists, and help you gain a little insight into local life and what they do for meals.

My family and I decided to use the French town of Annecy as a stop on a drive to a holiday in Brittany. We had been told it was a beautiful, medieval town along Lake Annecy in the Haut Savoie region.

We absolutely loved our weekend trip to charming Annecy and can’t wait to get back for a longer visit. The walks around the winding medieval streets and along the canals are beautiful and lovely Lake Annecy is just a short stroll away from the old town.

No visit to Annecy is complete without some shopping at the Sunday Market in Annecy’s vielle ville (old town). The Michelin Green Guide calls it the best market in France. We were skeptical – France has so many wonderful markets – but after our Sunday of wandering the colourful stalls in the winding streets of this idyllic mountain town, we had to agree. The stalls are packed tight through the narrow streets of the old town, making foot traffic slow. But who’s in a rush with so many colours to delight the eye and delicacies to tempt the stomach?

Photo courtesy flickr.com/photos/willj

No visitor should leave Annecy without tasting the reblochon cheese for which the region is famous. Try it in the regional dish of tartiflette (ready for it? Potatoes, reblochon cheese, cream and lard. Yes- it is literally a block of cheese in your stomach, but it’s delicious.) Fondue is another popular dish.

Photo courtesy www.pbase.com/scherrer

My European travel tip is to spend some time in charming Annecy, enjoying the architecture, nature, hiking (ideal for walking off all that tartiflette!) and wonderful cuisine. This would also be an ideal base for exploring other lovely towns of the beautiful Haut Savoie region.

London isn’t short of a steakhouse. Unfortunately, if Shaftesbury Avenue is anything to go by, it’s all Aberdeen Angus Steakhouses. No! There are tastier London restaurant options for steak lovers! Here are my London food and drink tips for the best steakhouses in the city.

Hawksmoor.

My personal favourite. Hawksmoor know their meat. They treat it with love (not hippy love, manly steaky love) and you won’t ever have a bad steak here. Or a bad cocktail. Or brunch. Or burger. They’re renowned for their lunchtime burgers – and at £15 a pop they really should be. Dinner won’t set you back less than £50 a head, but you’ll be so happy you came here. Do it immediately.

Goodman.

The Goodman and Hawksmoor are always in competition with one another. Foodies seem to prefer one or the other. The Goodman have branched our more recently (they used to cook their steaks ‘the Goodman way’ but if you ask for rare, they’ll do it now). They’re a bit swankier thanks to their Mayfair location, but they serve good cow.

Relais de Venise

Not the best steak you’ll ever eat, but for the bargain price of £20, you get some very good steak frites. Twice. I’m not sure why they’ve give you second helpings (are there more places in London that do this? I need to know about this kind of thing), but anywhere that gives me the opportunity for two meals in one is onto a winner. Avoid the desserts and don’t get offended by the staff. They cart you in and out like cattle.

Sophie’s

This little steakhouse has a very good reputation in West London. Their lunch specials are excellent value. You can’t argue with the two course option for £11.50 – including a rib-eye. If you’re in the area, it’s a good option.

Popeseyes

This is a simple concept. The menu lists the cuts of steak. Then it lists the weight of the steaks. You pick your favourite cut (rib eye for me please) and then the size. Sometimes things should be simple, shouldn’t they?

Gaucho

This Argentinian chain isn’t getting any less popular. It might be a little more mainstream than some of the steakhouses in London, but that doesn’t mean that the cut of their sirloin is any less impressive. I’d check out the others first, but I’m excited about my forthcoming visit here.

What’s your Europe travel tips for a great steakhouse in London? Tell me about it!

Flickr image from Basheertome‘s photostream.

All along western Norway you find quite a few old, old treasures, the old wooden hotels. Many of then are originally from a period long forgotten (or almost forgotten?) when British and other European travellers came to Norway to climb in the mountains, to hike in the nature.  These travellers were used to a certain style, and it didn’t take the owners of the guesthouses along their road long to adapt to the style required.

The old farm Røisheim is one of these places, filled to the brim with an old fashioned charm from days gone, at the same time all the needs of a modern traveller are catered for.  Staying at such an establishment is my Europe travel tip if you’re visiting Norway.

Every night the huge matklokke at Røisheim chimes when dinner is served. Dinner at Røisheim, a 5 course meal which must have been prepared by the elves, the main elf being Fru Ingrid, who reigns in the kitchen today.

Every course served is a pure piece of art, in appearance, in taste, in an atmosphere which is found in very few places. If the old plates could tell their stories, if the walls could show glimpses from days way back in time…….. Well, when you eat your meal at Røisheim the rooms do tell their stories. Open your eyes and your ears, see, listen, and you will be surprised what you’ll learn.

Every bedroom at the old farm is different. The one we were given had this lovely bed, and it had a wooden bath tub inside the bedroom. Make sure you have time to fill the tub, before dinner, before breakfast the next morning. And enjoy your time!

Here are links to my posts Romance at Røisheim and Dinner at Røisheim.

Something to celebrate this week – this is my 100th post at the Europe a la Carte Blog. In honour of making a century, I decided to post on one of my all-time favourite travel experiences in Europe (and beyond) – travelling on the Trans-Siberian railway across Russia.

A ride on the Trans-Siberian railway is the best way to reach the European part of Russia from the eastern side and is probably my favourite European journey.  It’s an iconic journey and there’s lots to know about it but today I was thinking with my stomach about the food options available from the track side vendors as you journey across Russia on the Trans-Siberian.

As you can see from the photo, a typical Trans-Siberian food stop is a pretty fascinating affair. During a typical  rail journey day, there are several timed stops which are about twenty minutes in length, meaning you have plenty of time to get off the train, stretch your legs, and stock up on the local food. And I mean local – the platforms fill up with locals who have cooked up a pot or two of Russian meals and snacks at home, brought down their little table and are ready to serve it up to you.

There’s probably nothing more authentic, and on my trip I soon learnt to ignore the official railway shops and head straight to the interesting conglomeration of locals ready to fill my stomach. Whether or not it’s true, I followed a Europe travel tip from a fellow traveller to seek out the “babushkas”, the old ladies, who were reputed to be offering the best food at the lowest price. I probably should have bargained but the prices were so cheap I usually paid whatever they asked for. From fresh berries from their gardens to heavy Russian meals full of potatoes, I never had a bad deal from a track side vendor on the Trans-Siberian, and I’d encourage you to try them too.