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Olde Hansa restaurant, Tallinn: Touristy but good

Olde Hansa restaurant, Tallinn: Touristy but good

When I go on holiday, I like a bit of a mix. I love going off the usual track. I adore exploring new places and I will choose somewhere that isn’t ‘the norm’. But I also love being a tourist. And I hate the snobbery around it. Things become touristy because they’re good. They’re interesting. There’s something to look at. Call me boring if you must, but I want to go and see those places. Not all of them (usually the free ones), but what’s the harm in doing the popular stuff if you want to go?

Which brings me to Olde Hansa in Tallinn. One of the most popular restaurants in the city. And without a doubt, the most touristy. It’s a traditional restaurant, medieval in style and they go to town on the theme. And despite the fact that it’s rammed with tourists (like me), it’s excellent. Once you get past the method acting from the waitresses anyway.

The food is different. The decor beautiful. Yes, I do want to sit in a gorgeous old building by candlelight (although a little more would have been helpful). Would we like to try traditional root beer? Yes please! And everything will be tasty and different and the bulgar wheat dish will be amazing? OK then. Go for the meat dishes. And don’t be put off by the prices. The main courses come with all sorts of tasty goodies (even a little mini pie with beans) so you’re paying around £15 for your dinner with drinks.

Olde Hansa is an experience, without being tacky. Sure it’s packed so service was a bit slow, but it’s worth it. The traditional spiced wine we tried the next day was excellent. Yes, it was so good we went back. I’d recommend sitting outside if it’s sunny – old buildings and lack of air-con are not fun.

This won’t be the best restaurant you’ll ever eat in. But it’s really very good and the experience is worthwhile. Some tourist places are worth putting snootiness aside for. This one is a real treat.

Olde Hansa restaurant, Tallinn: Touristy but good

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

In London, we have the beloved Gordon’s Wine Bar. We adore Gordon’s, and rightly so. It’s a fabulous little spot, one of my favourites in London, despite it being a victim of its own success (and a well-timed Time Out article). But on a recent trip to Tallinn, I found myself in Gloria on Müürivahe. And it might just have pushed Gordon’s off the top of my ‘favourite wine bar’ list. Or, my favourite bars EVER list. It really is that special and it’s my top tip for visiting Estonia.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

Gloria itself is actually all manner of things. It’s a fancy restaurant, with a teeny little guesthouse of only six rooms. There’s also a cigar bar. That’s a strange thing about Tallinn (or Estonia in general? I’m not sure). You can’t smoke in bars, but they do have designated cigar bars for that purpose, which is interesting. But, we were here for the bar. Which means going through the shop in the cellar.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

And it’s a fabulous shop. If you didn’t know there was a wine bar behind it, you might never find it. And there’s something exciting about that, isn’t there? But we knew it was there, so we heading right for the little archway, not really sure what to expect.

What you get is rather special. Like finding a secret that no one knows about (we were the only ones in there, save for the waitress). There is not bar as such, well not that we found. Just a little maze of beautifully decorated rooms. Old photos, everywhere, lots of wood, lots of candle light. Tiny tables, little secret corners. Perfect for romancing. Or telling ghost stories.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

The wine? Fantastic. Excellent glasses too, as you can see from that photo. The spirit glasses are beautiful. There are pricey options, but you can get a decent glass of red for under a fiver. You can get food here as well, but the menu is small. That said, they do use the same kitchen as the fancy restaurant, and it’s certainly much cheaper. The only downside is that the bar is closed on a Sunday (like a lot of bars in Tallinn), meaning I only got to come here once on my weekend away.

I’m already planning my next trip to Tallinn. Gloria wine bar has a lot to do with that. It’s nothing short of amazing. If you’re in this European city, go here.

If you’re planning a trip to Estonia, you can find the best deals at hotels in Tallin using the search box below.


Tallinn Hotels





Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


London’s best tapas

Tapas in London is good. Very good. If you avoid the La Tasca chain, anyway. But there are London tapas places that do it better than everyone else. Some that even rival the Spanish food in Spain. Here are my top Europe travel tips for finding the tastiest tapas in London. And of course, the best sangria.

London’s best tapas

Salt Yard, Fitzrovia, London by Ewan_M

Maison del Felipe: The Cut, Waterloo

Regarded by many as the best tapas in London. And it’s excellent. You’ll have trouble getting a seat, and you’ll often see the queue coming out of the door. But it is worth the wait. Go earlier in the week (and earlier in the evening) and you’ve got more chance to grab a couple of seats at the bar. Then just enjoy. Order whatever takes your fancy, try and speak Spanish to the friendly waiters (actually, don’t do that – they laugh at you) and listen to the live music.

Rebato’s: South Lambeth Street, Stockwell.

This is my personal favourite. Not just my favourite tapas place, this is my favourite restaurant in London. I adore it here. I’ve worked my way through the entire menu now and everything is good. It doesn’t matter how much you eat here, the bill never seems to be over £20 a head. The sangria is excellent, and you have to try the lamb chops and Mediterranean prawns. Just make sure you try the door if it looks closed, it very rarely is.

Salt Yard: Goodge Street, Fitzrovia

This place is more upmarket, but it’s also one of the best tapas restaurants in the area. You’ll pay more for your little plates, so it’s worth going for a special occasion (or going for lunch and putting it on office expenses). But you do get what you pay for. Make sure you get the pork belly, and enjoy a couple of glasses of wine.

Barcelona: Lime Street, Bank

Yes, this is a chain. But if it can keep my Spanish friends happy, that’s good enough for me. It’s tucked away down a tiny little street so make sure you’ve got a map. Their set meals make everything simple. You’ll pay £15 for enough food to keep you happy. If there’s a large group of you, get the paella as well. This place probably won’t change your life (if, indeed, you think tapas can change you life), but it’s a good little spot to remember.

Barrafina: Frith Street, Soho

If you’re in Soho and you’re looking for Spanish food, this is where you come. You’ll have to wait, but then you get to sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. This is a fancy place with a trendy crowd. And honestly, it’s worth the wait. Freshly prepared ingredients and amazing seafood. And, alas, a price tag to go with it.

If you’re a meat lover, here are my tips for London’s best steakhouses.

Got a favourite London tapas restaurant, tell us about it?


Eating local on a budget in Europe

One of the highlights of visiting different European destinations is the culinary delights that many cities and countries have to offer.  For some people, food is one of the main reasons for traveling.

Eating local on a budget in Europe

For some, this may mean eating authentic meals from some of their favorite places like pasta in Italy and paella in Spain.  For others, culinary exploration may lead to a more inquisitive taste for different foods that you don’t normally eat like escargot in France, criadillas in Spain (bull testicles), or blood pudding/sausage in the UK or Germany.

While many people love fine dining and eating at expensive restaurants for their favorite or strange foreign meals, eating out while traveling in Europe doesn’t need to cost a lot.  My Europe travel tip for finding good budget restaurants in Europe is to discover where locals go to eat and head there.  Many times these places are off the beaten path and away from touristy areas.  Often times, you will need to ask a local or know someone who lives there to find some of these great places.  While guidebooks are a great help, so is the courage to open your mouth and ask.

For many people, a great meal is a fine dining experience with a few stars attached to the restaurant name and a world renowned chef cooking their dinner.  While these are great, eating local foods doesn’t have to be expensive.  Just do a little research, get away from the tourist areas, ask, and follow the locals for lunch or dinner.

While in Madrid, we wandered upon a lunch buffet where many locals gathered to eat.  Lunch included a plate, a drink, a dessert, and as many trips as you want to enjoy pastas, salads, meats, and Spanish food at the buffet.  While eating at a buffet may not be a typical Spanish meal, it was surprisingly good. A lot of the food was fresh but the best part of the experience was the price and watching locals enjoy a meal during lunch.  While it wasn’t a typical Spanish meal, it was a chance to see how some Spanish people choose to eat lunch and go while still enjoying some local cuisine and favorite foods.

In Lisbon, a great sandwich spot was Casa das Sandes, the Portuguese version of Subway.  While eating a sandwich may not be a typical Portuguese meal, it was interesting to see what options they had for their sandwiches and how they were prepared.  Experiencing customer service, watching the preparation, and even how you pay for your food can be just as enjoyable and educational as the good itself.  It was nice to see that locals ate here as well and that you could do so at a good price.

When traveling, eating can be one of the highlights of the trip.  While many love to explore culinary tastes and dining experiences, not every meal has to cost a lot of money.  Eating at a local place during lunch away from the tourists can save you money (to splurge later on those big dining experiences), get you away from the tourists, and help you gain a little insight into local life and what they do for meals.


Market Day in Annecy, France

My family and I decided to use the French town of Annecy as a stop on a drive to a holiday in Brittany. We had been told it was a beautiful, medieval town along Lake Annecy in the Haut Savoie region.

Market Day in Annecy, France

We absolutely loved our weekend trip to charming Annecy and can’t wait to get back for a longer visit. The walks around the winding medieval streets and along the canals are beautiful and lovely Lake Annecy is just a short stroll away from the old town.

Market Day in Annecy, France

No visit to Annecy is complete without some shopping at the Sunday Market in Annecy’s vielle ville (old town). The Michelin Green Guide calls it the best market in France. We were skeptical – France has so many wonderful markets – but after our Sunday of wandering the colourful stalls in the winding streets of this idyllic mountain town, we had to agree. The stalls are packed tight through the narrow streets of the old town, making foot traffic slow. But who’s in a rush with so many colours to delight the eye and delicacies to tempt the stomach?

Market Day in Annecy, France

Photo courtesy flickr.com/photos/willj

No visitor should leave Annecy without tasting the reblochon cheese for which the region is famous. Try it in the regional dish of tartiflette (ready for it? Potatoes, reblochon cheese, cream and lard. Yes- it is literally a block of cheese in your stomach, but it’s delicious.) Fondue is another popular dish.

Market Day in Annecy, France

Photo courtesy www.pbase.com/scherrer

My European travel tip is to spend some time in charming Annecy, enjoying the architecture, nature, hiking (ideal for walking off all that tartiflette!) and wonderful cuisine. This would also be an ideal base for exploring other lovely towns of the beautiful Haut Savoie region.


London’s best steakhouses

London isn’t short of a steakhouse. Unfortunately, if Shaftesbury Avenue is anything to go by, it’s all Aberdeen Angus Steakhouses. No! There are tastier London restaurant options for steak lovers! Here are my London food and drink tips for the best steakhouses in the city.

Londons best steakhouses

Hawksmoor.

My personal favourite. Hawksmoor know their meat. They treat it with love (not hippy love, manly steaky love) and you won’t ever have a bad steak here. Or a bad cocktail. Or brunch. Or burger. They’re renowned for their lunchtime burgers – and at £15 a pop they really should be. Dinner won’t set you back less than £50 a head, but you’ll be so happy you came here. Do it immediately.

Goodman.

The Goodman and Hawksmoor are always in competition with one another. Foodies seem to prefer one or the other. The Goodman have branched our more recently (they used to cook their steaks ‘the Goodman way’ but if you ask for rare, they’ll do it now). They’re a bit swankier thanks to their Mayfair location, but they serve good cow.

Relais de Venise

Not the best steak you’ll ever eat, but for the bargain price of £20, you get some very good steak frites. Twice. I’m not sure why they’ve give you second helpings (are there more places in London that do this? I need to know about this kind of thing), but anywhere that gives me the opportunity for two meals in one is onto a winner. Avoid the desserts and don’t get offended by the staff. They cart you in and out like cattle.

Sophie’s

This little steakhouse has a very good reputation in West London. Their lunch specials are excellent value. You can’t argue with the two course option for £11.50 – including a rib-eye. If you’re in the area, it’s a good option.

Popeseyes

This is a simple concept. The menu lists the cuts of steak. Then it lists the weight of the steaks. You pick your favourite cut (rib eye for me please) and then the size. Sometimes things should be simple, shouldn’t they?

Gaucho

This Argentinian chain isn’t getting any less popular. It might be a little more mainstream than some of the steakhouses in London, but that doesn’t mean that the cut of their sirloin is any less impressive. I’d check out the others first, but I’m excited about my forthcoming visit here.

What’s your Europe travel tips for a great steakhouse in London? Tell me about it!

Flickr image from Basheertome‘s photostream.


Old wooden hotels in Norway – Røisheim

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

All along western Norway you find quite a few old, old treasures, the old wooden hotels. Many of then are originally from a period long forgotten (or almost forgotten?) when British and other European travellers came to Norway to climb in the mountains, to hike in the nature.  These travellers were used to a certain style, and it didn’t take the owners of the guesthouses along their road long to adapt to the style required.

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

The old farm Røisheim is one of these places, filled to the brim with an old fashioned charm from days gone, at the same time all the needs of a modern traveller are catered for.  Staying at such an establishment is my Europe travel tip if you’re visiting Norway.

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

Every night the huge matklokke at Røisheim chimes when dinner is served. Dinner at Røisheim, a 5 course meal which must have been prepared by the elves, the main elf being Fru Ingrid, who reigns in the kitchen today.

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

Every course served is a pure piece of art, in appearance, in taste, in an atmosphere which is found in very few places. If the old plates could tell their stories, if the walls could show glimpses from days way back in time…….. Well, when you eat your meal at Røisheim the rooms do tell their stories. Open your eyes and your ears, see, listen, and you will be surprised what you’ll learn.

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

Every bedroom at the old farm is different. The one we were given had this lovely bed, and it had a wooden bath tub inside the bedroom. Make sure you have time to fill the tub, before dinner, before breakfast the next morning. And enjoy your time!

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim

Here are links to my posts Romance at Røisheim and Dinner at Røisheim.

Old wooden hotels in Norway   Røisheim


Eating at a Russian railway platform

Something to celebrate this week – this is my 100th post at the Europe a la Carte Blog. In honour of making a century, I decided to post on one of my all-time favourite travel experiences in Europe (and beyond) – travelling on the Trans-Siberian railway across Russia.

Eating at a Russian railway platform

A ride on the Trans-Siberian railway is the best way to reach the European part of Russia from the eastern side and is probably my favourite European journey.  It’s an iconic journey and there’s lots to know about it but today I was thinking with my stomach about the food options available from the track side vendors as you journey across Russia on the Trans-Siberian.

As you can see from the photo, a typical Trans-Siberian food stop is a pretty fascinating affair. During a typical  rail journey day, there are several timed stops which are about twenty minutes in length, meaning you have plenty of time to get off the train, stretch your legs, and stock up on the local food. And I mean local – the platforms fill up with locals who have cooked up a pot or two of Russian meals and snacks at home, brought down their little table and are ready to serve it up to you.

There’s probably nothing more authentic, and on my trip I soon learnt to ignore the official railway shops and head straight to the interesting conglomeration of locals ready to fill my stomach. Whether or not it’s true, I followed a Europe travel tip from a fellow traveller to seek out the “babushkas”, the old ladies, who were reputed to be offering the best food at the lowest price. I probably should have bargained but the prices were so cheap I usually paid whatever they asked for. From fresh berries from their gardens to heavy Russian meals full of potatoes, I never had a bad deal from a track side vendor on the Trans-Siberian, and I’d encourage you to try them too.


France and Fruits de Mer

France is world renowned for its cuisine, its varied cuisine from north to south, west to east. It is, therefore, only right that I share some aspects of France’s culinary traditions; after all, this is one reason France is such a popular Europe destination.

France and Fruits de Mer

Western France, particularly Normandy, Brittany and the other regions along the Atlantic seaboard, have numerous fishing villages that provide the nation with daily fresh fish. A popular choice amongst the French and tourists alike is a plateaux de fruits de mer, a seafood platter (one is photographed above). These range from simple but no less enjoyable platters of a range of shellfish and crustaceans to quite elaborate dishes that come in two tiers of iced trays with something of almost everything.

Most seafood platters contain a variety of the following, which obviously varies according to availability and season: oysters (l’huîtres), mussles (la moule), shrimps (la crevette), prawns (la gambas), crab (le crabe), crayfish (la langoustine), lobster (le homard), periwinkles (le bigorneau) and welks (le bulot). Platters also vary in composition and then price: a cheaper platter will contain most of the above but without a crab or lobster, these are included on more expensive platters. The seafood is pre-cooked and served cold, so they more often than not come on a bed of ice.

France and Fruits de Mer
Suzyesue enjoying a seafood platter on the Ile de Ré.

So, if your Europe travel planning involves relaxing in a small and quiet seaside fishing village enjoying seafood served straight from the local fishermen, you really should be thinking about a visit to western France. France is certainly one of the best places to visit in Europe for fresh seafood in tranquil coastal villages.

France and Fruits de Mer
The fishing village of Etretat, on the Upper Normandy Coast.


The Best Bakeries in London

I adore pastry. It’s a thing of genius. Sweet, savoury, flaky, crumbly, all covered in butter. Pastry is basically the answer to any problem. I’ve solved many a dilemma with a bit of apple pie. So I need to know exactly where the best bakeries in London are (who knows when apple pie moments might strike?) I’ll be honest, I prefer pastry goodies to cupcakes.

The Best Bakeries in London

Here are my Europe travel tips for my favourite independent bakeries around London (and there’s not a cupcakery in sight!):

Rhodes: Rhodes is my local bakery, so it gets two thumbs up. But it’s worth it. Their pecan pie is to die for. There’s a branch in Greenwich but also a permanent stall in Borough Market. Everything is tasty in here, and you can get a great cup of coffee as well.

Euphorium: The go-to bakery chain in Angel. If you don’t like this place, there’s something wrong. Go and eat all the croissants! And the muffins. And the little mini quiches. Mmmm pastries.

Flour Power: I adore Flour Power for one reason: Their banana cake isn’t just the best banana cake I’ve ever tried, it’s also one of the best cakes I’ve ever had. Twice-cooked, moist and gooey. It’s heavenly.

Konditor & Cook: This little London chain is lovely. Great cake (and not too expensive either). Their gluten-free hazelnut concoction is my favourite.

Esca: This little Clapham bakery does those giant meringues that the French go mad over. They’re like candy floss, only much more Parisian. Hurrah!

If you’re taking a city break to the UK capital, perhaps you should check out the location of hotels in London before booking and stay close to one of these London bakeries?

Got a favourite bakery in London? Tell everyone in the comments.