Mini Travel Guides

35 rue du Faubourg Monmartre. A street that’s a little off centre, more than a little off the beaten track, and stumbled upon only by accident. And home to A le mere de Famille, Paris’ oldest and most famous confectioners, my Europe travel tip for this week.

The shop is gorgeous. Filled to the bursting with sweet treats like the candied fruits above. They have a huge amount of (very creamy) chocolate, but the rest of their wares are just as tasty.

The packing might be simple, but it’s elegant and perfect. Detail is important in this shop. And so is interior design for that matter.

Such pretty fixtures. Think classic French and old curiousity shop elegance (as only the French could do so well).

It’s like Willy Wonka chocolate factory! Only real, and a bit more expensive.

Isn’t it pretty? Everything just so. Unfortunately there are no samples – probably to stop pesky people like me buzzing around the counter like an annoying tourist.

Not a huge sweetie fan? There’s lots of jams and jellies to choose from as well.

A bar of chocolate will set you back around €4, and there are some great bargains if you’re willing to look around. The shop is geared up for tourists (although I’m sure that wasn’t the case back in 1761) but everything you buy here will be tasty. A la mere de Famille is an institution and just strolling through back streets from the Pompidou will lead you here. It’s a beautiful shop and you should definitely pop your head through the door. Bet you don’t come out empty handed. There’s also the temptation of delicious Parisian pastries as described by Andy, can it really be true that French women don’t get fat with all these goodies on offer?

Everyone talks about how fantastic London’s Borough Market is, and whilst that’s true, there’s another London food market south of the river well worth a mention. Greenwich Food Market might be smaller, but it certainly is perfectly formed. And it’s growing too. If you’re looking for culinary treats in London, Greenwich Food Market is my Europe travel tip.

The cake stand in the centre is the most popular stand. People flock here for their yummy sweet treats. And it’s easy to see why. I want cherry bakewell cupcakes!

A trip to the food market wouldn’t be complete without buying some flavoured coffee. They’ll grind it for you there too.

The churros in Greenwich are very special. There’s not dipping sauce (you can’t dip and walk at the same time!) so they use a funny contraption to fill them with dulce de leche or chocolate sauce. You’ll love them. And won’t care one little bit that you’ve got sauce on your shoes.

The Spanish and Portuguese food in the market is excellent, and if you get there late afternoon on a Sunday, everything is half price.

Still hungry? Just stroll around, buying little snacks, whatever catches your eye. Organic sausages, sushi, Turkish food. Things you’ve never seen or heard of before. Vegetarians are catered for and there’s some new stands at the entrance of the market that are really great.

Still hungry? Pop over to Blackheath Farmers market on a Saturday (in the station carpark) and you can get loads of yummy food there as well. Walk through the park and you might burn off some of those churros calories too.

Greenwich Food Market runs from Thursday to Sunday in Greenwich Indoor Market. Make sure you get to this London attraction before 5 for all of the best stuff.  When you’re in Greenwich you can also visit the Royal Observatory and the Painted Hall and Chapel at the Old Royal Naval College.

For so many different reasons the Dordogne region of France could easily claim to be one of the best places to visit in Europe. It certainly is one of the most popular. Given this area has some of the most spectacular prehistoric art in the world, justifiably perhaps it boasts itself as being the prehistory capital of the world. But this region is internationally renowned for its traditional French cuisine.

The Dordogne is also well known for its strawberries; the earliest documented mention being as far back as 1895. This area is said to be particularly good for strawberry growing because of the high concentration of lime in the soil, and of course the great climate. It is in the limestone caves that the prehistoric paintings are to be found. About a quarter of France’s strawberries are grown in this area.

And just as this area makes the most of its prehistoric heritage to attract holidaymakers, so too a number of Dordogne towns and villlages host their own fête de la fraise. The timing of these fêtes are obviously determined by the fruit, so the month of May in the Dordogne should be kept mind in any Europe travel planning.

Three fêtes of note are in the towns of Vergt, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne and Marmande. Of the three, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne claims to have created the world’s biggest strawberry tart (photograph below). These French food festivals attract thousands of visitors, all for a piece of the strawberry pie! Last year the tart in Vergt measured 4m across and used 240kg of strawberries, which were arranged in segments that represented fruit from different local areas. Of course the connoisseurs believe they can taste the difference in the strawberries from the different areas. Only one thing missing then – 150 litres of cream.

The World’s biggest strawberry tart – Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne by redharmony

If any Europe a la Carte readers are heading to the Dordogne in the first two weeks of May this year (2010), the dates to remember are: Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, 9 May; Marmande, 15 May; and Vergt, 16 May.

This past summer, my family and I were driving from Rome to Bari to catch a ferry. Since we were making good time (not always a given on Italian highways during the holiday periods), we decided to stop off to explore the Adriatic seaside town of  Trani ,  just north of  the city of  Bari in the region of Apulia .

This charming port town, with its long history, is a top Europe travel tip.  Trani first emerged as an important trading post during the Crusades, and later reached the height of its power under the rule of Emperor Frederick II in the 13^th century, when the town’s imposing castle was built. Today, it’s a lovely place to spend a few hours, a day or a relaxing weekend. The port itself is charming, with its picturesque fishing boats, beautiful, imposing palazzi, with their ornate carving and cool courtyards, and tempting tables of portside restaurants where you can sample the freshly caught seafood accompanied by one of the many excellent, local Apulian wines.

Most visitors come to see the spectacular Trani cathedral, initiated in 1099 and completed 1143.  The imposing bell tower was added in the 13^th century. The cathedral is built of local, white limestone, which, like other buildings in this region, changes dramatically in the changing light of day.

Photo courtesy of Trani tourism website

The cathedral is built just along the sea and, in the hot summer months, some of the windows are open and visitors can enjoy the sea breezes and the sound of the waves from the lovely interior. As in much of the architecture of Apulia, an Arab/Moorish influence can be observed in much of  the ornamental elements, particularly on the cathedral’s portal.

This charming little town definitely merits a visit. It’s a nice stop for anyone headed to the ferries departing from Bari or an easy trip or weekend destination for those arriving in the Bari airport.

One of the (many) reasons I like living in Rome is the wonderful year-round climate. Still, come winter time, I do miss seeing snow – if not actually shovelling it – so I am happy to be close enough to the mountains to enjoy nice weekends skiing in Italy.

One of my top Europe travel tips is to visit the mountains close to Rome, the Apennine mountains in the neighbouring region of Abruzzo. Although Abruzzo skiing is not as good as that in the resorts of northern Italy, the proximity and convenience of the Abruzzo resorts make them extremely popular weekend destinations for Romans and a great Europe destination.

Abruzzo is an ideal travel destination in all seasons. In the winter there is downhill and cross-country skiing, sledding and ice skating. In the summer, there is fantastic hiking, biking and horseback riding. Abruzzo is still a fairly undiscovered Italian region and tourist masses never descend upon the charming mountain towns in the same numbers as they do in neighboring regions such as Tuscany and Umbria. Yet the towns are lovely, the food and wine extremely good, the mountain air rejeuvenating and the nature breathtaking.

One of the most popular Abruzzo skiing resorts for Romans also happens to be one of the closest and easiest to reach by highway, the town of Ovindoli. Ovindoli is about a 1 ½-hour drive from Rome and all but the last 15 km is easy highway driving. It is equidistant from the airport in Pescara, on the Adriatic coast. The town itself is small, with plenty of hotels and apartment rental options and many restaurants serving up hearty mountain fare.

Food in Abruzzo is simple, but excellent. Regional specialties include the chitarra pasta, fresh egg pasta – thicker than linguine, but narrower – served with the local saffron sauce, delicious gnocchi (especially good in this potato-producing region) with ragù (tomato sauce with meat), sausages, scamorza (melted cheese) or arrosticini (lamb skewers), all of it perfectly accompanied by the regional red wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

My family and I often enjoy Abruzzo skiing at Monte Magnola , just 3 km from the center of town. If you are driving up with your own car, head up early as the parking lots fill up quickly. There is also a frequent shuttle bus which departs throughout the day from the town square.

The mountain is panoramic and is popular with skiers and snowboarders. There are also easy slopes for children and beginner skiers and lessons can be easily arranged.

Just a few kilometers from Ovindoli is a second ski resort, Campo Felice . The closest towns are Rocca di Cambio (at 1434 meters from sea level, this is the highest town in the Apennine mountain range) and Rocca di Mezzo.

This isn’t an area used to lots of foreign tourism, so fewer people will speak English or other foreign languages. Nevertheless, you’ll be able to make yourself understood and will most likely have a great time in this unspoiled region. Enjoy your Abruzzo skiing holiday!

Croatia continues to top the list of most favoured Europe destinations. And if you too are planning to visit to these shores, one of my most recommended Europe travel tips is to make time for at least one meal at a Konoba.

The Konoba is a traditional Croatian tavern. It comes with rustic features like stone walls (with picture frames of Croatian heroes and Adriatic creatures), wooden tables (simple, chunky and sturdy looking, usually with a blue or red chequered tablecloth), a shaded courtyard with tables under giant trees, an open-hearth fireplace, and hidden from view, a cool, delicious cellar.

The menu is limited but rich in local flavour and easy on the wallet. The ingredients are fresh and sourced from the surrounding region, if not from the backyard, and everything is freshly prepared by the inn-owners, from the olive oil to the wine and bread on offer.

The experience is refreshing too. Chances are you’ll share conversations and receive recommendation from friendly inn-owners. Feel free to ask questions and learn more about the recipes and region. At the end of the meal, don’t be surprised to receive an invitation to share some rakija, a fruit-herb brandy, with the regulars. These shots are not only delicious, but they also double up as digestives.

Konobas grace every corner of the country and are very easy to find. If you’re looking to get away from the pizzas and sandwiches, in favour of something richer and more traditional, a Croatia konoba is where you need to be.

I just sent a good friend off packing for a long weekend trip to Amsterdam and gave her some of my Europe travels tips, a list of my favourite restaurants in the city. I thought it was a bit selfish not to share them, so here are a few really special places you should check out where you’ll find the best Amsterdam foods.

Best Breakfast and Tea

You won’t believe this one, but just past the gay saunas and sex shops of the red light district you’ll find the Bakkerswinkel (translates at baker’s shop). It’s a cosy little place with a huge selection of teas, coffees, and the BEST scones in Amsterdam. They are almost better than what you can get in the UK. Perfect start to the day.

Best Sandwich

You can’t go wrong with the massive, more bread than you can eat sandwiches made to order at Pasta Di Mamma on P. C. Hoofdstraat. They make the fresh balls of bread daily and then all of the ingredients are fresh and oh-so-delicious. Come hungry.

Best Place to Take Your Mum

I LOVE this choice: it’s just steps from the Westerkerk and it is a local secret, so hold onto it. It’s Moeders (dutch for monther) and your mum will love you forever for taking her to this wonderful place. The walls are covered with pictures of patron’s mothers, and all of the crockery/cutlery are donated from mums. You can get an amazing stamppot (a Dutch dish made with mash, spinach, and sausage) and don’t skip the Moeders coffee, it packs a powerful punch.

Best Takeaway Food

There’s no shortage of takeaway food in Amsterdam, from the kebab shops to the queues wrapping around the corner for a fresh batch of fries! But my favourite place is Wok to Walk. You simply choose noodles or rice, meat or veg, then add on your selection of sauce and veggies. They stir fry it while you watch, then on your way you go. Some of the smaller ones are takeaway while there is one larger dine-in place (but I still prefer the takeaway option). Fresh and filling.

Do you have a favourite food or place to eat in Amsterdam?

Photo by katielips

Although I was brought up in London, I’m constantly reminded when I return of the many great places to visit that are new to me. One of these is Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, and ever hopeful that spring is just around the corner, I thought I’d share some Europe travel tips on what to do there.

Serpentine Lake in Hyde Park

Hyde Park was once a hunting ground for Royalty, but these days it’s one of the green lungs of central London with plenty of amenities for visitors. The best way to approach the park is on foot or by tube from wherever you’re staying – the nearest tubes are too many to mention, so I suggest that you download the map from the excellent Royal Parks website and approach from whichever direction is most convenient for the things you want to see. The western half of Hyde Park merges into Kensington Gardens where there also many things to enjoy.

Hyde park for sports

If you’re staying near the park and like to keep fit, it’s an excellent place to run and jog, perhaps doing a circuit or two around the Serpentine Lake that runs through the centre of the park. Cycling is permitted on roads and some cycle paths and you can even swim in the lake at the Serpentine Lido and paddling pool between Easter and October. Near the Lido, you’ll find the tennis centre where you can turn up and play and there’s even horse riding in the park available from the Hyde Park Stable if you ring to book in advance.

Hyde park for families

Princess Diana Memorial Playground

The park is a mecca for kids to enjoy a bit of space away from the noise and London traffic and you can enjoy a picnic in summer or a walk beside the Serpentine Lake to feed the ducks. There are several playgrounds around the park but the most popular is the Diana Memorial Playground on the edge of Kensington Gardens, which is often packed with kids swarming over the pirate ship at the centre. Near the Lido is the Princess Diana Memorial fountain, a loop of shallow water that children love to paddle and dabble in when the weather’s warm. If you have older children, they may also enjoy some of the other sporting activities I’ve already mentioned.

History and Culture in Kensington Gardens

On the western edge of Kensington Gardens is Kensington Palace, home of the late Princess Diana and other members of the Royal Family, where you can visit many of the Palace rooms and see the Royal Ceremonial dress collection as well as an exhibition of some of the clothes Princess Diana wore. If you’re an art buff you can visit the Serpentine Gallery for free when there is an exhibition being held – visit the website to see what’s on.

Afternoon tea in Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens

Kensington Palace in London

There are many places to eat in the parks including the Serpentine Bar and restaurant and the Lido cafe, but one that is ideal for afternoon tea is the Orangery at Kensington Palace where you can have the Debutante’s afternoon tea in the elegant surroundings of the former Orangery. If you’re approaching from the Knightsbridge side, you could push the boat out in elegant luxury on the Park Terrace of the Mandarin Oriental hotel, where they serve lunches and afternoon tea from May to September, overlooking the park.

I’d like to thank Miko Selcuk, Senior Concierge at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park for passing on many of these great tips to me – Do say Hi to Miko for me if you visit the Mandarin Oriental for afternoon tea this summer.

For more information on Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, visit the Royal Parks website.

Photo Credits: Starrgazr, UGArdener, UGArdener

Romans have loved their bread for the past 2000 years. The famous “Panis et circenses” (bread and circuses) poked fun at how easily the Emperors could maintain their power over the masses in Ancient Rome. Although the circuses (gladiatorial battles, pageantry and ancient circus performances) may have been replaced today – some would claim by soccer – bread remains just as important to the daily life of Romans as it did in ancient times.

When in the Eternal City, do as the Romans do and visit a veritable institution, Panella l’arte del pane (Via Merulana, 54 – close to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore), one of the city’s most famous bakeries.

Romans and visitors alike flock here daily for various types of freshly-baked bread, pizze, appetizers, torte rustiche and cakes. The recipes are from all regions of Italy and are baked according to traditional recipes, always using fresh, seasonal ingredients. The window displays are also seasonal and change frequently.

Take your purchases home or enjoy a snack or a light lunch along with the locals – at stools around a central table, where you can order freshly-baked, mouthwatering delicacies. Rome is one of the best places to visit in Europe and sampling some of Panella’s wares can only add to your enjoyment of the eternal city.

If you love fresh fish and seafood you’ll love the vast array of species on sale at the Fish Market in La Boqueria in Barcelona. I was at there in December 2009 during the Catalanya Experience BlogTrip09 as we shopped for the ingredients for our Cook & Taste traditional cooking workshop. We needed shrimp, monkfish and clams for our main course of Fideua (Noodle Paella).

Have you visited Boqueria market, which section did you find most interesting?