Mini Travel Guides

We visited the Estonian Open Air Museum, one of my “Ten Things to Do in Tallinn” when we were in the city in March 2011, staying at the Barons Hotel in the old town. From the hotel, it was a 15 minute walk mostly through the old town to the main train station, where we caught bus no21 (1.6 Euro each way). The bus journey lasted 20 minutes and we were dropped off at the entry point. The bus does a circular journey, meaning you pick it up at the same spot.

Estonia Open Air Museum map

The Open Air Museum entry ticket costs 3 euro. There are excellent directions and the good path takes you through mixed woodland and past typically Estonian houses from bygone ages, which were brought here from all over the country and reconstructed on site.

Typical Estonian countryside building re-erected at the museum

There are also other types of traditional buildings like barns, fishermen’s net storage huts, saunas and several unusual windmills all through the Park.

Stone construction Estonian building

The Park is on Kopli Bay, meaning you also get great sea views and there are good picnic spots.

Classic Estonia type windmill at the museum

You can also go around the Park on a (very friendly) horse buggy, driven by a member of staff dressed in traditional clothing. On the day we visited there was snow and the buggy was on skis.

Friendly horses taking visitors on trips through open air the museum on their break

The Park is a good size and walking shoes are recommended.

Most buildings were padlocked, but there was one where a lady in traditional dress was baking some type of scones and you could visit the interior. This house was from the early 1900s and the interior decor looked somewhat Victorian.

Interior of typical 1930′s house at the museum

Unfortunately we weren’t offered any scones, although to be fair it wasn’t clear if they were ready at that time.

Model dwelling exterior

There is also a charming little gift shop near the area you buy the tickets.

Souvenir dolls at the museum

There are several toilets throughout the Park and although it’s fenced off, it is also patrolled by private security.

Another Estonia-style windmill at the museum

This is a very straightforward and pleasant day trip from Tallinn that won’t require early/late journeys as the Park’s nearby, or break the bank.

The bus journey also goes through some interesting Estonian-style modern housing estates.

Visiting the Estonian Open Air Museum near Tallinn

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We visited the Kumu Art Museum in Tallinn, part of the Art Museum of Estonia, when we visited Estonia in  March 2011, staying at the Barons Hotel in the Old Town. The museum is one of our recommended “Ten Things to Do in Tallinn“. This fascinating modern building is  best reached by a 40 minute walk from the Old Town which takes you through charming Kadriorg (Catherine’s Valley) Park, where the magnificent palace and art museum can also be seen and/or visited.

Kumu Art Museum exterior

The Kumu Art Museum is an unashamedly huge 5-year old ultra-modern  building, which fills its vast spaces with a unique mixture of pure Estonian art from various stages in its history and currently-themed temporary exhibitions.

Tallinn Art Museum posters from various exhibitions

We initially experienced the ‘For Love Not Money’ 15th Tallinn Print Triennial, featuring artistic takes on issues like family, politics, religion, fetishes, sex, yearning and dependency.

This exhibition was over two floors, the 2nd and 5th, and a good mix of artists was represented. Keeping in with the Estonian/Russian/Baltic themes, one of the exhibits featured a woman’s memories through 80 years of political change in the form of a cartoon character looking at a life-long collection of cards, while another featured allegories through sexual life, experiences and birth. Print shape co-mingling with context was explored in several, most unexpected, forms.

Sculptures amongst paintings at Kumu art Museum

The ‘Difficult choices’ permanent exhibition of Estonian Art from 1945-1991, covering the Soviet occupation era, struck several chords and familiar faces like the Russian Marxist revolutionary, economic theorist, political philosopher, author and lawyer Vladimir Ilyich Lenin as well as the head of the Politburo Stalin were amongst Estonian notables in the form of either a painting or bust.

The oppression of Estonians and their agony and spirit of fight and despair comes through clearly in these artistic representations, some of the most vivid and disturbing of the paintigs being life-size. As there was little/no influence from the West during this era, some of the works also rerpresented most unusual departures.

Some of the busts in a discrete area containing over 100

The Treasury permanent exhibition covered earlier Estonian art, approximately 18th century to 1945, and it was fascinating to note the similarities, influences and differences between it and styles predominating in the West during the same time period.

Exhibits with local character at the Kumu

‘The Colours of Light’ exhibition on the 3rd floor examined the functions of these elements as classic forms of expression in painting, as well as interpretations by Estonian artists during the pre-WW2 period.

Modern sculptures at the Kumu

The 5.5 Euro charge covered cloakroom facilities.

Some of the posters exhibited at the Kumu

A charming modern little cafe at the 1st floor by the auditorium, with lovely views over the grounds and Kadriorg Park, completed the rich experience.

Model of the Kumu Art Museum and its grounds

In my opinion, the Kumu Art Museum is a ‘must see‘ Tallinn museum during a visit to the city. I’d recommend that you leave at least 1/2 to 1 day in order to take in the experience.

The Kumu Art Museum in Tallinn, Estonia

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It is generally thought that the precursors to the modern museums were the so-called ‘cabinets of curiosities’. Wealthy individuals, established families or institutions collected a variety of objects ranging from fine art and sculpture, archaeological and historical objects to rare or curious natural objects and specimens. These collections would be private, and only open to ‘respectable’ individuals. The British Museum in London has in a sense re-created the feel of these early museums in their enlightenment galleries.

The oldest public museum in France, Musée des Beaux-Arts et d’archéologie (Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology) in Besançon, started out as the private collection of Jean-Baptiste Boisot, an abbot. He bequeathed his personal collection to the Benedictines of the city of Besançon on condition that the collection was open to the public two days every week. This was in 1694, nearly a century before the Louvre became a public museum in August 1793.

There are three aspects to this museum: archaeology, paintings and drawings.

The archaeology collection of the museum has some striking pieces, including the entire sarcophagus of an ancient Egyptian (21 Dynasty) royal scribe named Seramon, (above) and a few mosaic pavements from Roman villas. The mosaic below is the central motif of what is called the ‘Neptune Mosaic’ that dates to the second century BC. The archaeology collection also has a number of artefacts from various sites in the area.

The painting collection has some well known pieces of European art from the 14th to 20th centuries. Including some well known artists, such as Titian, Brueghel the Elder, Rubens, Goya, Renoir and Matisse. But the museum is particularly known for its collection of drawings. With over 5,500 Italian, Dutch and French drawings, this is one of the largest collections in France ranging from the end of the 15th century to the middle of the 20th century.

Henri Matisse, Nature morte au lierre, 1916.

So if you are visiting the France-Comte area of eastern France, and crave some high culture, this museum is a must.

The photographs I have used in this post have been taken from Magika42000′s photostream for this museum on Flickr.

Musée des Beaux-Arts et d’archéologie de Besançon: France’s Oldest Public Museum

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Before I even start, I should tell you all, I don’t really like the Millennium books.  I think they are overly detailed, they slog along, and they just seem a bit too stereotypical at times.  Luckily, this isn’t a book review.  Because even if those details can become a bit much, those details also give the reader a good glimpse into Stockholm as a city.

Knowing what café is on what street on what island in Stockholm might not be necessary for moving the plot along, but for those who have been on that island, on that street, at that café, it’s a fun exercise.  It makes for a great travel trip while visiting Stockholm, Sweden.

The Stockholm City Museum seems to agree.  The museum offers walking tours of Stockholm, stopping at places that appear in the Millennium books.  Because of the international popularity of the books, tours are offered in a variety of languages: French, Italian, Spanish, German, Portuguese, Danish, Finnish and Russian.

Picture courtesy of StefanRos. More pictures by StefanRos here.

Of course, they also offer an English language tour, which leaves every Saturday at 11:30 am.  The tour lasts about two hours and tickets can be purchased, for 120 SEK, from a few different places, including the museum itself.

Regardless of your opinion of the book, Södermalm, the island which is host to much of the action in the books, is a beautiful place and well worth wandering.  You’ll be surrounded by great little stores, bars, cafés, restaurants.  Not only that, but the area offers some amazing people watching, as the Stockholmers mill about on a Saturday.  Pick the Saturday after everyone gets paid (usually the 25^th of each month) and you’ll be amazed how the city comes to life.

Picture courtesy of Robin Iversen Rönnlund. More pictures by Robin Iversen Rönnlund here.

Keep in mind you do not meet at the museum! Instead, the meeting point for the tour is Bellmansgatan 1, for Millennium fans, better known as the apartment of Mikael Blomkvist.

Millennium Books Walking Tours: Following the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

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I was intrigued when I first heard about one of Istanbul’s latest attractions: an ice museum because that’s one of the last things you would associate with a city in a generally hot country. In fact, the ice museum which opened its doors in April 2010 is the only one in Europe created in a warm country.

Located in FORUM Istanbul, one of the city’s most fashionable shopping malls, a visit to the ice museum is a brilliant choice. Apart from the show, history and exhibits, the museum is open every day of the week, whereas many other museums and historical places in Istanbul are closed on Mondays. So, why not combine a Monday looking at ice sculptures with doing some shopping – window or otherwise – in the pleasant surroundings of FORUM Istanbul. The FORUM is easily reached because it has a separate stop on the METRO (clearly indicated) and is located close to the Central Bus station  in Bayrampasha.

FORUM Istanbul shopping mall in Bayrampasha

Entering the forum from the Metro stop, you descend two floors and find the entrance to Magic Ice right opposite the escalator. Admission is TYL 20 and then the fun begins , because first you have to dress up. You are given an ice blue, protective, hooded  cape with gloves dangling from the collar to put on over your clothes to protect you from the freezing temperatures which are needed to preserve the art behind the ice tunnel. Very fetching outfit, I think.

Wrap up warmly!!

Then you delve into the blue lighted world of ice, walking between semi transparent walls with elaborate lamps over head. The theme of the museum is based on the history of the voyage of the Vikings to Istanbul in 880 and the story is etched into sheets of ice, thankfully in Turkish and English. You can admire an entire Viking boat, a house, an elk and, of course a Viking and read the story of one of the warriors by the name of Halvan who visited the Hagia Sofia and etched his name in runes into one of the walls.

Part of a Viking boat

At the end of the walk an ice bar awaits and you are offered a drink in a glass made from ice. That’s when you need to gloves, so your fingers won’t freeze off. A fabulous chandelier made from ice hangs over the bar.

Chandelier hanging over the bar

Take off your cape and visit the museum shop. Plenty of carved Vikings are in evidence but the souvenirs  I liked best are glass enclosed replicas of some of the exhibits in the museum. You are not allowed to take photographs inside the museum but the PR lady kindly gave me permission when I told her that I was writing about it.

The nicer souvenirs from the museum shop

Then, if you like, go to the upper floors of the shopping mall, have a snack and enjoy two bookshops where you can get a great selection of English language books, something not easy to come by in Turkey outside of Istanbul .Or else, stock up on any imaginable brand of international cosmetics and browse the displays of designer shops as well as more affordable but very chic local creations.

You can find some great deals on Istanbul hotels using the LateRooms search box below.

Magic Ice – Istanbul’s Ice Museum

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Vienna is surely one of the best European destinations. To truly enjoy the city, a visitor shouldn’t rush, but should instead slow down and enjoy age-old Viennese traditions. Few of these traditions are as enjoyable as taking time to relax, warm up,  people watch, and read in the venerable institution of the Viennese café.

Outside these lovely cafés, the hectic and distracting pace of 21^st century life may go on as usual, but inside, be sure to pack away your laptops and hide your iphones in order to fully enjoy the splendours of turn of the 20^th century Vienna. The cafés are all well stocked with international newspapers. The coffee is served Viennese-style, on a  platter, accompanied by a glass of water with an overturned spoon. Desserts are, of course, sinfully rich. Be sure to incorporate one (or many) visits to some of these cafés into your next visit to Vienna.

Demel

The grande dame of Viennese café culture, Demel was established in 1786. The “K.u.K” proudly displayed on its portal and on its confectionary boxes, indicate that it was the official imperial bakery (Kaiser und Kaiserin). Emperess Sissi was said to have been extremely fond of the sweets produced by Demel.

Firmly wedded to tradition, Demel refused to remove the “K.u.K” even after the collapse of the Empire rendered it irrelevant and unpopular. Almost one hundred years after the Empire’s collapse, it still remains proudly on the door – as you can see in this photo – and a visitor to this lovely café may indeed feel he’s been transported back to 19^th century Vienna.

The beautiful window displays change frequently. Even if you don’t manage to go inside to sit down, be sure to see what’s on display in this most famous of Viennese cafés. Demel is located on Kohlmarkt, just a few steps away from the Hofburg.

Café Schwarzenberg

Café Schwarzenberg is on the Ringstrasse, midway between the Opera house and the Stadtpark. It was established in 1861 when the Ringstrasse was first built by tearing down Vienna’s defensive walls.

Café Schwarzenberg  is famous for having been occupied by the Russian army after liberating the city in 1945. Today, the café upholds Viennese traditions and is a pleasant place to stop on your walk around the Ringstrasse. On warm days, there is outdoor seating on the adjoining sidewalk.

Café Central

This is my favourite Vienna café. Opened in 1861, the Café Central is housed in the Palais Ferstel on Herrengasse. Over its long history, the Café Central has seen many famous – and infamous – patrons sipping coffee within its lovely vaulted spaces.

Adolf Loos, Tito, Sigmund Freud, Vladimir Lenin, Adolf Hitler and Leon Trotsky have all spent time here. At a time when many Viennese flats were unheated, many young intellectuals and revolutionaries spent hours nursing their coffees – and staying warm – at the Café Central.

This was the case with Leon Trotsky, who became such a fixture at the Viennese coffee house that when the Russian Revolution began, the Viennese laughed it off, assured that “Herr Trotsky of the Café Central” could never succeed in such an endeavour.

Join the ranks of history and culture with a visit to these beautiful Viennese cafés on your next visit to the Austrian capital. For something more informal Andy recommends Cafe Aida.

If you’re planning a trip to Vienna, check out our piece on Vienna Hotels for All Budgets. If you’d like to search for the best prices available at all Vienna hotels during your trip dates, click here to use the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Best places to slow down and experience Vienna’s café culture

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Known as one of the world’s most glamorous and opulent palaces, Dolmabahce on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, attracts thousands of visitors each year. You should experience the overwhelming architecture and decorations of this Istanbul attraction for yourself.

Dolmabahce Palace

Photo from wikipedia, author: SBarnes

Dolmabahce is Turkey’s largest palace, built by Sultan Adbülmecid I between 1843 and 1856. The mono block building covers 45.000 square meters and features 285 rooms and 68 toilets. The cost was the equivalent of 35 tons (!) of gold and 14 tons in the form of gold leaf were uses to gild the ceilings. In addition, the palace entrance hall is illuminated by  the world’s largest Bohemian crystal chandelier, which was a gift from Queen Victoria and a sweeping staircase with banisters made from Baccarat crystal.

Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles are combined with Turkish ottoman features to create a unique building. Surrounded by gardens, the palace overlooks the Bosporus on a site which originally served as public gardens, a fact from which the name Dolmabahce (full garden in Turkish) is derived.

Clock Tower adjacent to Dolmabahce Palace

The palace was the administrative center of the last Ottoman sultans and became the presidential summer residence of Atatürk, who died here on 10^th November 1938 at 9.05 am. All clocks in the palace remain stopped at the time of Ataürk’s passing.

Whereas you can stroll around other museums and monuments at your leisure in Istanbul Dolmabahce palace can only be viewed with a guided tour.  And you are not allowed to take photographs of the interior.

Sultan's Gate

The tour leads around the most important sections of the palace and you can admire works of art as well as marvelous palace carpets. You can walk around freely in the gardens and to the separate clock tower.

I like to visit by taking the tramway from Sultanahmed to the last stop, Kabatas and then walk along Ciraghan Caddesi , gazing at  the waterfront and admiring  many old mansions which line the street. The walk takes about 30 minutes. Calculate 1 to 2 hours for  the visit to Dolmabahce with the guided tours starting every 20 to 30 minutes.

We’re written about ten of the best hotels in Istanbul for all budgets. You can search for the lowest prices on all Istanbul hotels on the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Dolmabahce, Istanbul: A Palace of Superlatives

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Rome is my favourite European city. I love walking around and seeing all the layers of its long history. Although most visitors concentrate on Rome’s Ancient, Renaissance and Baroque splendours, medieval Rome is also fascinating to explore.

One of my favourite corners of Rome starts at the tiny, cobblestoned street of Via San Paolo della Croce, which leads over the Celian hill. If you come here in the silence of early morning, you would be forgiven for thinking you’ve been transported back in time to medieval Rome, particularly as you near the lovely Basilica of SS Giovanni e Paolo (Saints John and Paul).

This church was built in 410 AD and restructured in the 11^th century by Pope Pascal II, who also erected the lovely bell tower typical of medieval Italian churches. Major renovations to the interior were carried out in the 18^th century, but the pretty exterior remained untouched.

This perfect Roman spot has been admired by countless generations of Romans and tourists alike. The following observations about the church and its idyllic position were recorded by Henry James in his Italian Hours:

No spot in Rome can show a cluster of more charming accidents. The ancient brick apse of the church peeps down into the trees of the little wooded walk before the neighbouring church of San Gregorio… and a series of heavy brick buttresses, flying across to an opposite wall, overarches the short, steep, paved passage which leads into the small square. This is flanked on one side by the long mediaeval portico of the church of the two saints, sustained by eight time-blackened columns of granite and marble. … The place always seem to me the perfection of an out-of-the-way corner – a place you would think twice before telling people about, lest you should find them there the next time you were to go.

I love James’ description of  this “out-of-the-way-corner”. That’s exactly how I feel when I have this little slice of Rome to myself, before the crowds and the cars. Here are the heavy brick buttresses he describes.

If Henry James’ description can’t coax you to SS Giovanni e Paolo, then perhaps what lies beneath might do the trick. Underneath these dramatic buttresses are the Case romane , the Ancient Roman houses, which opened to the public in 2002, following extensive excavations.

These are the homes where John and Paul, officers under Emperor Constantine, were said to have lived. They were martyred in 361 and the basilica that takes their names was built over their former dwelling place.

Excavations began in 1887, uncovering a site of more than 20 rooms, some with vivid, well-preserved frescoes.

Photo courtesy of the Case romane web site

These homes are a wonderful glimpse into Roman life between the 2^nd and 4^th century. A small but interesting museum displays objects excavated from the homes. Check the museum’s web site for opening hours and ticket information

Enjoy your visit to medieval and Ancient Rome at the Basilica of SS Giovanni e Paolo. For more of medieval Rome, see the Shrine to Pope Joan and the beautiful mosaics of Santa Prassede.

If you’re planning a visit to the Italian capital, you can find the best deals at Rome hotels using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

When in Rome: SS Giovanni e Paolo and the Ancient Roman houses

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Where in the world can you travel from one continent to another for less than a simple London bus fare? Exactly, only in Istanbul.

For a very enjoyable day trip take the ferry from either Eminönü or Karakoy and embark on a 40 minute ‘cruise’ to Kadiköy. Arriving at the ferry terminal you feel the much more sedate, typically Turkish middle class atmosphere of the ‘other’  Istanbul. There is no sign which says Welcome to Asia, people don’t look different or speak another language, but the first thing you notice is the absence of camera toting tourists.

Typical shop window in Kadiköy

Instead you are greeted by a sea of flowers, as right opposite the ferry terminal, in a vast square is one of the most beautiful flower markets I have seen in Istanbul. Right next to it you find another historical train station: Haydarpasa station, very much in the style of Sirkeci Gare but less spectacular. Once the terminal for the famous Bagdad-Istanbul line, it now serves trains to Asia.

Flower market near ferry terminal

The beauty of Kadiköy is not as eye catching as the overwhelming array of world famous buildings and monuments which you find at every twist and turn in Sultanahmed and beyond. Hence the absence of tourist groups. You have to look a bit closer to find the charm of Kadiköy. A lot of the attraction is about food and drink and many cafes and restaurants which  excellent Turkish dishes, at much lower prices than on the other side. I loved this patisserie which specializes in sweets and decorations for new babies.

Sweets and gifts for babies

The main street, Bagdat Caddesi is a commercial place with department stores and other outlets ,much frequented by locals from both sides of Istanbul. A streetcar runs along, blue and white in color but, sadly, plastered from top to bottom with adverts.

You will find art as well in Kadaköy, like this bronze hand, but, again, rather subdued as opposed to ostentatious. Stroll along, shop or window shop, sit in one of the restaurants and then make your way to the bank of the Bosporus to admire some very fine, old, wooden mansions.

Bronze hand in Bagdat Caddesi

Return to the European side either again by ferry or over one of the bridges where, indeed, you will see a sign saying: Welcome to Europe.

Kadiköy on Istanbul’s Asian side

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While planning a trip to Latvia’s capital, I was very surprised to read that the historic center of Latvia boasts the largest collection of art nouveau buildings in Europe.

I have lived in both Prague and Vienna and both cities impress visitors with their stunning art nouveau architecture. The work of Czech artist Alphonse Mucha is even credited with popularizing the movement, so I was surprised to learn that it was actually Riga offering the widest range of buildings in this whimsical and beautiful style.

Art nouveau, also known as Jugendstil (from German) or Liberty (the name used in Italy), was most popular at the turn of the 20^th century.

The height of its popularity happens to coincide with a major urban development project in Riga. Between 1896 and 1913, the city expanded outside the boundaries of the medieval center. This urban planning effort resulted in a new circle of pleasant parks surrounded with new housing constructed in what was soon to become the city’s ubiquitous art nouveau style. Riga’s new constructions were mainly created by German, Austrian and Finnish architects.

photo courtesy of www.riga-life.com

Following the failed 1905 revolution, a wave of nationalism swept through Riga. The art nouveau style was affected, too, with distinctly Latvian design elements – such as Latvian folk elements and local building materials – finding their way into building projects.  The movement was known as National Romanticism.

Photo courtesy of bonsaiinformation

In 1997, Riga was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site , in part for what UNESCO calls Riga’s “outstanding universal value by virtue of the quality and the quantity of its Art Nouveau/Jugendstil architecture, which is unparalleled anywhere in the world.”

If you’re planning a trip to Riga you can find the best hotels deals using the HotelsCombined pirce comparison site.

Riga’s stunning art nouveau architecture

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