Mini Travel Guides

Stockholm is in the midst of another winter.  It happens every year and every year it is dark and cold.  That’s one of the reasons Stockholm isn’t always at the top of the list of best places to visit in Europe during the winter.  Which is a shame.  The city has so much to offer.  Stockholm is amazing shrouded in snow, and the Christmas markets are hard to beat.

But there are so many other things going on in the Swedish winter.  Like sports.  There’s bandy, and ice skating, and skiing.  And hockey.  Of course, hockey.  The Swedish professional hockey league, Elitserien, is one of the best hockey leagues in the world.  The talent pool is deep and is usually home to several NHL prospects or former NHL players.  One year the second division even managed to sign Ed Belfour, a potential Hall of Fame player to play for the season.

The nice thing about ice hockey in Sweden is that you don’t need to be interested in hockey.  The game becomes more of a cultural experience.  The singing, the chanting, the mass of people in black coats preparing to head back into the Swedish winter waiting outside, it all comes together to give a greater understanding of Sweden and a look at a part of life that so many people forget when traveling abroad.

It needs to be experienced in person. It also needs to be noted that if you have small children who speak Swedish, the language can be a bit, well, adult.  Be warned, but enjoy!

Swedish Winter Activities – Ice Hockey Games

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A few years before World War II, the horrors of war under the leadership of Hitler were quietly displayed – in Spain. In 1937, bombs fell on the Basque town of Guernica with reports of 250 (or more) dead as the town was destroyed by German and Italian forces under Operation Rügen. The bombing came during the height of the Spanish Civil War as Nationalist forces led by General Francisco Franco were seeking to march into Basque country and take control.

by aroberts

Today, people throughout the Basque country, Spain, and the world remember this tragedy through Pablo Picasso’s famous painting – Guernica.  The Spanish Republican government had commissioned Picasso at the International Exposition dedicated to Art and Technology in Modern Life.  While Picasso was living in Paris, he received the news of the bombing and painted his view of how things looked that day in his abstract, Cubist style.  The result of his work was shocking, yet it was a realistic look at the tragedy of war.

Today, Picasso’s Guernica hangs proudly in the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid.  A masterpiece, the painting is one of the few works in a room meant to draw attention to this tragedy.  A bull stands over a mother holding her dead baby.  A horse is pierced, a soldier is dismembered, and a skull hangs over the body of the horse.  A woman, a light bulb, a bird, and a dark wall are just a few images of this sobering painting.  The symbolism of Picasso’s painting has been discussed and debated by many.  However, his theme rings true throughout the painting – the tragedy of war brings pain to the life of the people caught in it’s wrath.

Picasso’s Guernica has become a symbol of peace, anti-war movements, and even the United Nations.  For the Basque region, it is a symbol of regional pride and nationalism.  For Germany, it is another embarrassment from the reign of Hitler.

If you’ve ever visited the Reina Sofia and seen Picasso’s painting, it has evoked a variety of emotions from people.  Does Picasso’s Guernica have symbolism for Spain today?  Does this tragic painting from 70 years ago still have meaning in our world?

While many things have changed in Germany and Spain from 1937, war is still a part of the world today.  Regardless of your feelings on war and its place in our society, Picasso’s Guernica is a moving, realistic piece about the tragedies of war that all of us can understand.

The tragedy of war – Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid

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During my two week stay in Munich and the Chiemsee this summer, I decided to visit one of the most important documentation centers about recent German history, the Obersalzberg in Berchtesgaden.

Berchtesgadener Land

A trip to Berchtesgaden is feasible as a Munich day trip, the journey takes approx. 3 hours (each way) either by car or train.  Once you arrive in Berchtesgaden take to RVO bus #838 to take you up the mountain to the Obersalzberg. The documentation is a permanent exhibition of the Institute of Contemporary History Muncih-Berlin and to date the only permanent exhibition worldwide to cover all the essential aspects of the Nazi period in Germany.

The halls are arranged around Wachenfeld House which Adolf Hitler purchased in 1933 and then converted into his holiday resort Berghof. And of course, Obersalzberg contains the Führerbunker underneath  the exhibition halls.

Admission to the center is EURO 3 and you can either join a guided tour or walk around on your own, look at photographs, watch old Wochenschaus and videos.

Entrance to the documentation center

Then follow the signs and descend into the bunker. What struck me as chilling in the truest sense of the word was how vast, dark and very cold the many, many rooms are. Having to take refuge in a bunker this deep and big must be haunting, with water dripping off the walls and floors and not much by way of amenities.

Aisles in the bunker

Rooms were marked as office, guest quarters etc. but they resembled prison cells more than temporary living quarters. They are also all totally empty. I expected some sort of furniture or memorabilia of the times, but there is absolutely nothing.

Dripping walls

Another point of interest to visit in Berchtesgaden is the Eagle’s Nest, a big chalet which was a project of Martin Borman and presented to Adolf Hitler as a50th  birthday present . It’s located high up on a mountain and there is an access road which was blasted out of solid rock and completed in only 13 months. Since 1952 the Eagle’s Nest road is closed to public traffic and a bus service takes visitors to a viewpoint. From there a stone lined tunnel leads straight into the mountain and an elevator which takes the visitor up another 406 ff straight through the heart of the mountain and into the building itself. The Eagle’s Nest is open from mid May until the end of October.

Footpath down from Obersalzberg to Berchtesgaden

I didn’t visit the Eagle’s Nest because after my visit to the Obersalzberg, I walked back into Berchtesgaden on a winding footpath which leads through dense forest and affords views of the beautiful Berchtesgadener Land. It was also a means to unwind after the truly moving experience of viewing the documentation.

Reliving recent German history in Berchtesgaden

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A few weeks ago I wrote a post about the Compiègne Forest and the Armistice monuments there. Besides this wonderful forest, there is also a Château de Compiègne – which was the royal residence for French monarchs, and also for Napoleon and Napoleon III. Since the mid 1300s a royal château was cited in the forest because the French kings used it for their hunting activities. But the castle we see today was renovated and remodelled in a neoclassical style during the second half of the eighteenth century for Louis XV, who particularly liked hunting and spent much of his time here. Together with the castles at Versailles and Fontainebleau, Compiègne was one of three seats of royal government.

Château de Compiègne.

During the revolution the castle was all but gutted, the furniture was sold off and the art was taken to Paris and the nations central museum. In 1807 Napoleon ordered renovations, and then in the 1850s Napoleon III and his wife used it as an autumn residence. Consequently the castle has both First French Empire (1808-1810) and Second French Empire styles of decoration, although there are traces of earlier monarchist decoration.

Just one of many royal apartments.

Today the château incorporates not one but three museums – well these places are palatial! First there are ‘Les Appartements Historiques‘, in which you can tour examples of royal apartments from the eighteenth century, as well as the First and Second Empires. Then there is the Musée du Second Empire, which is the rule of Napoleon III from 1852 to 1870. This ‘museum’ displays the national collection of paintings, sculptures and other objects from this period in France’s history. And finally, the Musée de la Voiture et du Tourisme. Founded in 1927 this ‘museum’ has well over a hundred bicycles, animal drawn carriages and early cars that tell the history of the car and tourism.

An old fire cart – you can see the hose.

Together with the various attractions in the forest, the Château de Compiègne with its three museums make a wonderful day-trip from Paris. It’s only a 50 minute journey by train from Gard du Nord. Or you may prefer to have a more leisurely visit by staying overnight in a hotel in Compiègne.

For practical information about the castle, see the museums’ website.

Château de Compiègne, France: Three Museums in One

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La Coruna, Galicia’s second largest city is far more than an important commercial port. The history of Spain’s north eastern province is reflected in many monuments and sights which are well worth a visit.

The most important landmark is the Tower of Hercules which looms on a peninsula approx. 1.5 miles from the city. Built in the 2^nd century, probably under the rule of Trajan, the Roman  lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse in the world which has been in use uninterruptedly for some 1900 years. It’s about 180ff tall and you can climb up right to the top. Its current shape dates from 1788 when it was restored.

The Tower of Hercules

To get there go on the blue and white streetcar, another of La Coruna’s peculiarities. Or else, to get the full impact, make your way to the Paseo Maritimo and catch one of the sightseeing boats which tour the port of La Coruna and go far out into the bay. The boats depart when there are a minimum of 12 passengers and the trip lasts about an hour.

Back on land make your way to the Castillio de San Antonio, a massive fort which was built in the 16^th century to defend the city which came often under siege from pirates and hostile armies which had their eyes on the wealthy city.

Castillo de San Antonio

You can climb around, but don’t miss to visit the archaeological museum which is housed within the castle and features a collection of period furniture and a chapel among other treasures.

Exhibit in the archaeology museum/Castillo de San Antonio

Head uphill towards the old town of La Coruna and admire the Plaza de Maria Pita and the monument to the sword wielding lady. She is a local heroine who, in 1589 by an act of enormous courage, foiled the attempt of the English fleet and the generals Norris and Drake to breech the city walls.

Statue of Maria Pita

Opposite you find a park and the tomb of Sir John Moore who was killed in the battle of La Coruna between the British and the French and was buried in La Coruna at his request.

The narrow cobbled streets of the old town are nice to wander and are lined with countless cafes selling Tarta de Santiago, a cake with ground hazelnuts and the ever present coffee.

Head back towards the sea front and go for a stroll along the port until you reach Jardin Mendez Nunez. It’s a particularly beautiful park, green and lush and full of flowers. Within a gastronomic surprise awaits:  casetas which represent and sell typical food and drink of every region in Spain.

Across the road is one of Spain’s oldest and most prestigious book shops: Libreria Arenas. Browse for books about Galicia which you won’t find anywhere else and let yourself be advised by the enormously helpful assistants.

Should you stay over night, consider a very quaint hotel in Calle Ramon y Cajal: the Hotel Moon. It’s a boutique hotel which you might walk past if it weren’t for the astronaut on the pavement. It’s very futuristic in design and everything revolves around the phases of the moon, including the white and ice blue color scheme. The rooms are comfortable and spacious and offer a lot for EUROS 50 for a single. The first floor restaurant has a blue glass floor and the downstairs café serves set meals for 10 Euros which are very filling.

Welcome to the Hotel Moon!

La Coruna is a city which cherishes culture and music and if you are lucky you can go to an open air concert in the Plaza Maria Pita. La Coruna isn’t short of museums and churches either or if you feel like to spot of really good shopping, head for El Corte Ingles. Much of La Coruna can be managed on foot, otherwise take a taxi whichall run with meters.

You can find the best deals at hotel in La Coruna on the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Things to do in La Coruna, Galicia, Spain

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Winter is a surprisingly good time to visit Stockholm.  Or at least December is.  Despite the dark, the Christmas lighting and any snow lying around really brightens up the city.

With all that darkness, brightening up the city is pretty important to most Swedes.  That’s what makes Lucia such a great holiday.  Way back when calendars weren’t always on the same page as they are now, the longest day of the year was said to be the 13th of December, St. Lucy’s day.  Today, that tradition is celebrated in Sweden with candles to light the winter (and plenty of delicious baked goods).

The traditional celebration involves a young woman, chosen as Lucia, leading a procession of stjärngossar, or star boys.  On her head is a wreath of candles, and in her hands she carries lussekatter, or St. Lucy’s Buns, along with coffee.

In the early 1900s, an official Lucia was elected in Stockholm and that has continued to this day.  Every year, voting is held for Lucia, who is then crowned at Skansen and leads a procession on Luciadagen.

This year, the crowning will occur on the 4th of December, the procession will, of course, be held on the 13th of December. Skansen during the Christmas season is an amazing experience.  Coupling that with the Lucia procession is even better and makes for one of the best places to visit in Europe during the holiday season.

If you’re planning a visit to the Swedish capital find the best rates at Stockholm hotels on the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Photo by Bengt Nyman.  More photos by Bengt Nyman here.

St. Lucy’s Day in Stockholm, Sweden

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I spent a very enjoyable afternoon walking around the village of Deia in the north west of the Spanish island of Mallorca.  I was taken by the beauty of the paintings of religious scenes on tiles embedded in walls throughout the village. I tried to find out more about the paintings in an online search but nothing came up. Below are photos of some of this “street art” in Deia.

Please leave a comment if you have any information about Deia’s religious “street art”.

Religious “Street Art” in Deia, Mallorca: A Photo Tour

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When Rome sightseeing at the Colosseum, be sure to take the time to cross the street and peer into the area known as the Ludus Magnus. Two thousand years ago, this was the largest and most prestigious of Rome’s gladiatorial training schools.

The Ludus Magnus was built during the reign of Emperor Domitian (81-96 AD). Ancient records of its construction exist, but it had been built over and its exact location remained a mystery until it was unearthed in an excavation in 1937.

Renderings based on excavations and ancient records are believed to be quite accurate. As the image below illustrates, the Ludus Magnus once boasted s central practice arena where gladiators learned and trained, surrounded by limited seating for spectators. Rooms around the training area contained barracks for the gladiators and storage for the equipment. Underground tunnels connected the Ludus Magnus with the Colosseum.

Rendering courtesy www.livius.org

Today, just over half of the arena and the barracks remain. The brick-work of the present-day ruins would have been covered with marble at the time of Ancient Rome.

Peer down at the remains of the school that once trained Rome’s best gladiators. Better yet, enjoy stunning views of the Ludus Magnus and the Colosseum over a glass of wine from the rooftop terrace of the adjacent Hotel Gladiatori .

If you are visiting the Ludus Magnus, you are just three blocks away from the portico marking the spot where  Pope Joan’s true identity was discovered. Why not enjoy a short stroll in the pretty neighborhood of Celio in order to visit this curious medieval site?

When in Rome: Ludus Magnus – training ground of gladiators

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Tomorrow, 11 November – Armistice Day, is observed and commemorated differently around the World today. In France it is a national holiday, and most if not all communes will hold ceremonies at their monuments aux morts where they will remember their forefathers who fought and died for their country during World War I.

This bronze sculpture of a sword that strikes the Imperial Eagle of Germany is set in Alsatian sandstone and inscribed “To the heroic soldiers of France – Defender of Fatherland and of Right – Glorious liberators of Alsace and Lorraine”, photograph by Mark Wilson.

Armistice Day, as we all know, marks the end of World War I, the day the Germans surrendered to Allied forces. Armistice was signed, by the various signatories representing the Allied forces and the Germans, between 5:12 AM and 5:20 AM, Paris time, and surrender was scheduled for 11 O’Clock that day, 11 November 1918. This was the hurried result of what was a desperate and pressured process that had begun towards the end of October when German leaders realised defeat was imminent. After a flurry of telegrams between the German command and Allied leaders, the threat of revolt breaking out throughout Germany forced the issue.

The German delegation was taken to a secret location, and in the Allied Commander-in-chief, Marshal Ferdinand Foch’s private railway carriage the final details of the Armistice agreement were thrashed out for three days. That secret location was the forest of Compiègne.

Photograph by Mark Wilson.

Still today the exact spot in the forest commemorates the signing. Slabs of granite mark the spot where the Foch’s carriages stood, and where the carriage occupied by the Germans stood.

Foch’s train went back into service, but in November 1927 it was returned to the exact spot where the Armistice was signed. The carriage was placed in a specially constructed shelter, known as the Clairiere de l’Armistice. There the carriage remained until 22 June 1940 Hitler, Goering, Keitel, von Ribbentrop and others marched into the Clairier, and in the very same carriage the Nazis demanded and received the surrender armistice from France.

Photograph by Johnny Rooke.

The Clairiere de l’Armistice was destroyed during the Occupation of France during World War II, and Foch’s carriage was taken as a trophy to Berlin. But in the dying days of the Third Reich, Hitler ordered the SS burn the carriage and destroy the ashes – nothing was to be retrievable. But on 11 November 1950 a replacement carriage – itself built in 1913 at the same time Foch’s carriage was built and correct in every detail – was rededicated on a restored Armistice site in the forest of Compiègne.

Compiègne is only a 50 minute train journey to the north from Paris’s Gard du Nord. There are around 20 trains a day. For anyone visiting this great European city, Karen has written produced a great summary of all best things to do in Paris, as included on the Europe a la Carte blog. Beside the Armistice memorials in the forest of Compiègne, there is also the spot where Joan of Arc was finally apprehended. And besides the forest there is the Château de Compiègne, the seat of the Second French Empire – but that will have to be the topic of a future post.

Armistice in the Compiègne Forest, France

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I love the elegant city of Vienna.  It’s one of my favourite European destinations. Despite having lived there many years ago and having visited frequently over the years, it was only on a recent visit that I finally got to a performance at the Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule).

The Spanish Riding School is housed within Vienna’s Hofburg. The beautiful Lipizzaner horses and their skilful riders perform daily (except Mondays) and  tickets for the performances can be booked in advance on-line.

Before or after the performance, you can cross the street and peek in at the stables of the Lipizzaner. These horses have been bred for Vienna since 1580 when Habsburg Archduke Charles II founded the imperial stables, in what is now Slovenia.  In 1920, following the breakup of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the imperial stud was established in Piber, just west of the city of Graz. The Lipizzaner you are seeing today can all have their bloodlines traced back more than four hundred years to the original Habsburg stables.

The Winter Riding School performing hall is truly spectacular. It was built in 1735 and it is here that daily performances are held. Ticket prices are fairly steep, but I was in Vienna with my children, who love to ride. I thought it would be a special treat for them to see the performance. In the end, I ended up being just as enthusiastic. It’s wonderful to be seated in this stunning hall,  watching the horses and riders undertaking their elegant “ballet” performance set to classical music. Before the fall of the Habsburg Empire, these performances were only viewed by honoured guests of the Court.

Interesting commentary in German and English follows each segment of the performance. Spectators learn how the carefully selected riders begin their careers  at the Spanish Riding School and how the knowledge of this imperial tradition is passed on orally from more experienced, Master riders to their young pupils. Those students, upon reaching Master rider status, must also be prepared to instruct the younger generation.

Each junior rider is eventually put in charge of a young horse and is responsible for the horse’s care and training.

Photo courtesy equisearch.com

The performance is fascinating to watch – the riders and their horses carrying out precision movements to the music of Mozart and Strauss. The horses’ jumps, pirouettes, courbettes and intricate steps are truly impressive to experience.

Photo courtesy lobelinepr.com

My tip is to take in a performance of the Austrian Lipizzaner on your next visit to Vienna. It’s the only riding school of its kind in the world and it’s a true pleasure to experience a performance of this imperial tradition still going strong after 430 years.

If you’re planning a trip to Vienna have a look at our recommendations in the “Best Places to Stay in Vienna for all Budgets“.

Enjoying Vienna’s Lipizzaner horses at the Spanish Riding School

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.