Mini Travel Guides

Looking for a Mediterranean summer resort with history? How about 2000 years of history? Ancient Roman Emperor Tiberius used to enjoy spending summers in this beautiful seaside retreat on the Tyrrhenian Sea and, millennia later, modern-day Romans still escape the city’s sweltering summers by relaxing on the beach of  beautiful Sperlonga, one of my favourite European destinations.

Sperlonga lies south of Italy’s capital, half-way between Rome and Naples. It’s an ideal Rome day trip, taking about 1 ½ hours to drive from Rome or an easy train ride from Rome’s Termini station to Fondi, with a short, connecting bus to Sperlonga.

Sperlonga’s old town is perched up high, with beautiful views down to the wide town beach and turquoise waters below. Sperlonga, known as the “White Town”, is a charming collection of whitewashed homes and narrow, winding, labarynth-like streets simply begging to be explored.

Stop on the charming piazza for a cappuccino or a gelato and watch the world go by. Then head down the ramp or the steps to the beautiful beach below to while away a relaxing afternoon swimming and lounging on the beach, while enjoying the dramatic views up to the town.

With its wide beach and gentle waves, Sperlonga is also the perfect Italian beach holiday destination for families with young children.

Head back up to the town in the evening and dine under the stars at one of the many restaurants in the old town: mussels in white wine sauce, calamari, spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) or grilled fish accompanied by a cool white wine will wrap up the perfect day.

Enjoy your beach holiday fit for an Emperor!

It is a truth universally acknowledged, that all Jane Austen fans will eventually find their way to Bath

Yes, embarrassingly enough, I am one of the “Janeites” :  a lover of all things Jane Austen who has read and re-read her six novels and watched countless adaptations of her works by the BBC, ITV and others.

Bath photo courtesy ITV – the town as the set of ‘Persuasion’

As all fans of Jane Austen  – and even those who dislike her, but were forced to read her during high school English classes –  know, Bath plays prominently in her works. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years and two of her novels, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion, were largely set there.

So, on a recent trip to London with my two young children, I decided to take a London day trip to Bath, two hours away by train from London’s Paddington Station. My husband was not along on this trip and my two sons are too young to protest, so the timing seemed perfect to make my own pilgrimage to Jane Austen’s former hometown. Bath, an elegant town originally settled by the Ancient Romans and containing stunning Georgian and Victorian architecture, is truly a wonderful European destination, even for non-Jane-obsessed travellers.

The Roman Baths (unearthed after Austen’s time in Bath) with the Bath Abbey in the background.

Neha has already written about the excellent Jane Austen Centre , but there is also a Jane Austen walking tour, led by knowledgeable guides who pepper the walking tour commentary with segments from Jane’s letters, scenes from her books and shooting locations of the films.

The Crescent

Fans of the books and films will enjoy the commentary and visiting the real sites of fictional scenes from the books, such as the Assembly Hall where the concert scene in Persuasion takes place, the very room in which the dastardly William Elliot comes between the novel’s protagonists.

The Assembly Hall where Anne Elliot and Captain Wentworth attend a concert in ‘Persuasion’

In addition to points of interest from Jane Austen’s novels, the walking tour takes in many Bath attractions with their striking architecture, including the abbey, the Roman baths, the Pump Room, the Crescent and the Circus and is a wonderful way to get a feel for the city.

Even decidedly non-Jane Austen fans, such as the two I had in tow on my Bath pilgrimage, will appreciate the expanses of green and parks dotting this graceful city. Clearly, Bath sightseeing offers something for everyone, although, alas,  I can’t speak for ‘single women in want of rich husbands’. Readers, any lucky Bath encounters with modern-day Captain Wentworths or Mr. Darcys?

Where the Bosporus becomes the Black Sea sits the remnants of Yoros Castle.  Several hundred years of weather, war, and neglect has left little of the castle standing atop the hill looking out over the water, but it is the centuries old ruins that make this an Istanbul day trip worth taking.

There is a path leading up to Yoros Castle, much of it near a military base with signs reminding you that no pictures are allowed.  At least on most of the hike.  Once atop the hill, you’re free from any military zone, and with the view spreading out before you, you’ll be glad you brought your camera.

I found myself standing atop the hill near Yoros Castle as the sun set.  The result was a beautiful view as Istanbul’s city lights came to life.  The large illuminated flag of the nearby military establishment was a reminder of the military significance of the fortress throughout history, guarding the strait.

The ruins are open and free to the public.  This means that you can wander in and around the castle, completely unmolested.  It also means that people climb on the ruins, scaling the walls as if they were besieging the fortress.

Some of the most famous sights in Istanbul are located on the European side of the city. But the Asian side has plenty to offer as well.  Yoros Castle is a great day trip from the European side of Istanbul to the Asian side. So when planning your doing your Europe travel planning, don’t forget just how close you are from Asia while in Istanbul.

If you have the good fortune to visit Turkey in spring and during the off season, your Europe travel planning should include a day trip to one of my favourite Europe destinations, Miletos, the most important city on the Turkish Aegean coast in antiquity.

Ilas Bey Mosque floating in the mist

Spring is a lovely season , with plenty of sunshine, rolling hills covered in fresh green and countless fruit and almond trees in full bloom. It rains occasionally too and after a few days of downpour, my friends and I ventured out on our drive from Didim, half way between Izmir and Bodrum, north/east towards Söke.

The turn off to Miletos is just after you come through a sleepy little town by the name of Akkoy.

The road is secondary and not busy, even in full season. This has a lot to do with the fact that Miletos, like the Ephesus museum in Selcuk, is somewhat neglected on the ‘must see’ tourist schedule. A blessing, really, because it allows you to enjoy a fascinating and truly mysterious site without crowds and tour guides.

Miletos lived through at least three periods of prosperity during the Greek and Roman period and under Alexander the Great. It lost importance during the Ottoman Empire and sank totally into oblivion thereafter.

Located at the mouth of the Meander River, Miletos once had no fewer than five ports and was the most powerful of the Roman provinces of Asia Minor as well as the biggest and richest of the 12 Ionian cities on the Aegean coast. Over the centuries, the river stilted due to alluvium swept towards the sea and today it’s totally landlocked. As the ports disappeared, so did the importance of the city as a crossroads of trade as well as the centre of conquests.

But, Mileto’s impressive past has left behind a plethora of excavated sites which give a true picture of how vast and important it once was. Much is still hidden under the hills and who knows what treasure may  come to light over the next years.

Home to such distinguished scientists and artists as Thales, Anaximander and Anaximeder, the city’s grit- like layout was invented by Hippodamus, a sensation at the time which served as ‘blue print’ for Roman cities.

Coming around the last bend on the approach to Miletos, you are greeted by the sight of the only remaining building of the Ottoman Empire: the Ilas Bey Mosque of 99 steps. Due to the recent rain, the moss covered mosque loomed out of the morning mist and made for a romantic opening of letting the mind drift to the past.

Find somewhere to park and then head for the amphitheatre which has survived earthquakes and wars nearly intact.

Amphitheatre in Miletos

Constructed in Greek times, it was amplified during the Roman period and has seats for 15 000 spectators. Acoustics are amazing as you can easily find out for yourself. What I love about Miletos is that part of fallen columns, statues and sculptures are just lying around in the grass surrounding the amphitheatre and you can touch and even have fun without anybody telling you off. The site evokes the impression that you have happened upon a testimony of antiquity by chance and wander around as you please rather than ‘visit’ an organised place. This state of affairs contributes to the sense of mystery, because you can’t help pushing away a bit of earth with your foot and playing at hobby archaeologist.

Conversation with a Greek philosopher

Climb up the steps of the theatre to the top, but be careful: tourists may not be too fond of the site, but sheep are and they leave their traces behind!

From the plateau behind the amphitheatre you can appreciate the grit and have a perfect view of the remains of the agora, temples and other buildings which were essential to a city of antiquity.

Agora and temples in Miletos

Meander downhill towards the bath and come full circle to your starting point. Sketches, maps and explanations are displayed throughout the site, so you know what you are looking at.

Stumble over masterpiece of sculpture

There are a few stalls which sell the usual souvenirs and just one little café where you can have a drink, rest your feet and enjoy a final view of this Turkish archaeological site which, basically and happily, has been left alone.

When my family and I are back in America, we spend a lot of time in Harlem, New York City, so on a recent trip to Amsterdam, we were curious to take a fifteen minute train ride to see Haarlem, the New York neighborhood’s namesake from back in the distant days when Dutch was the lingua franca of the Big Apple.

Haarlem,  just 20 kilometers west of Amsterdam, is extremely easy to reach and a great Europe destination. Trains depart approximately every 15 minutes from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station (round-trip tickets are 7.50 euro adults/ 3 euro children). Although Haarlem is the Netherlands’ eighth largest city, it’s a European city with small town charm that makes for a pleasant Amsterdam day trip from the busy capital.

Grote Markt is the picturesque main town square. We were unfortunate not to have been here on a Saturday, when the entire square is the site of a large and colourful outdoor market. My Europe travel tip would be to try to make it here for the market, which must be lovely in this dramatic town square.

One of the draws of Haarlem is the Gothic cathedral, Sint-Bavokerk. The cathedral is also famous for its flamboyant, 18^th century  pipe organ, said to be among the best organs in the world. Famous musicians and composers who have performed here, including Händel and the then-10-year-old Mozart,  have confirmed this claim, expressing their enthusiasm for the organ’s superb quality.

Haarlem was also home to the Golden Age Dutch artist Frans Hals (1580 -1666) and the excellent Hals Museum (open daily 11:00– 17:00, Adults 7.50 euro ) contains the largest collection of his paintings in the world.

It’s pleasant to walk around this small city and to wander around the banks of the Spaarne River. My Europe tip is to enjoy a few hours here exploring picturesque Haarlem.

Part of each year I live in a small Turkish town called Didim, a once upon a time fishing village located half way between Izmir and Didim’s more famous sister Bodrum.

The great advantage of the place is that it’s ideally placed for excursions to other Turkish locations such as Ephesus or the delightful port town of Kusadasi as well as being conveniently close to some lovely Greek islands.

Kos is only a few hours away and my friends and I embarked on a boat trip to visit the birthplace of Hippocrates. This is one of my favorite Europe travel tips.

In the summer, ferries leave once a day from Didim/Altinkum, otherwise one has to go to Bodrum  from where the crossings run year around.

The ferry from Altinkum is a hydrofoil which is good because it shortens the time of the crossing to only 2 – 2 1/2 hours, depending on the wind condition. On the other hand it’s only half the fun, because you can’t enjoy the sight of the many islands dotting the Aegean Sea from an open deck. You are locked in tightly below, the windows are covered with spray but you effortless – and fast- whiz above the waves.

Customs and immigration on arrival at Kos are swift and very well organised. You don’t lose much time going through the formalities and step onto the pier, heading towards the capital of Kos, also called Kos.

A huge castle wall runs along the pier and you get your first glimpse of the ever present black cats lounging on the sun heated stones. At the end of the pier we turned left and walked uphill through some of those lovely, narrow Greek side streets which mostly consist of steps.

Side streets in Kos, blue and white dominate

Surrounded by gardens and swaying palm trees lies the first of Kos’ famous sites: the ruins of an ancient gymnasium.

Ancient gymnasium in Kos

Turn left again and you reach what we had really come to see: the world famous plane tree under which the Greek physician Hippocrates supposedly used to sit and teach his disciples. The tree is truly a sight to behold, ancient, gnarled, some branches  supported by scaffolding the trunk split by lightning, the tree has withstood the ages and remains a symbol of the science, wisdom and advanced knowledge of antiquity.

Hippocrates Tree/Kos

To this day there is an island tradition involving the tree. Every 5^th of September, the housewives of Kos take two wreaths made of pomegranate, grapes, garlic, olive branches and some leaves of the Hippocrates tree to the sea. The old wreath is cast into the sea and the new one is placed on the beach where it needs to be lapped by exactly 40 waves. Pebbles are also collected and a procession with the new wreaths and the pebbles returns to the tree. The trunk is touched for good luck and the new wreath is hung in the house to protect its inhabitants for another year. The pebbles are placed in a corner and are supposed to ward off wagging tongues!

Meandering back towards the sea front and admiring some of the colourful boats moored there, we reached another small park which is graced by a modern statue of Hippocrates surrounded by his admirers. I couldn’t help myself, I found Hippocrates’ backside more attractive than the front.

Many tourists come to Kos for duty free shopping and these establishments abound. We had come for another purpose though: apart from visiting the tree we made a bee line for one of three fish restaurants we had already tested in the past. It is quite a surprise that two countries which are so close together and fish in the same sea can have such difference in the quality of sea food. Each of the three offers a sea food platter for €25 which is so enormous that two people can easily share. Big king prawns, sword fish, sea bass, a selection of fresh salads, fries and mashed potatoes spill over  the platter. Nothing like that is to be had in Didim and we indulged to our heart’s content.

Some cheese, a coffee, another stroll along the seafront and it was already time for the return ferry at 6 pm.

Colorful boats in the port of Kos

A wonderful daytrip was rounded out by a spectacular sunset over the Aegean Sea, which in Homer’s immortal words, turned ‘wine colored’.

Homer's wine colored sea

Have you visited the Greek island of Kos, what did you most enjoy doing there?

Kolmården bills itself as the largest zoo in Scandinavia and if you are interested in biology, or just have small children, it is great addition for your Europe travel planning. And plus, it isn’t every day you get to see giraffes near European cities.

The zoo is an impressive display of animals from all over the world and boasts several hundred animals.  Hundreds more are born every year, and a rhinoceros was born this past winter.  There is even the opportunity for a safari like drive through in the aptly named Safari Park (although this is considered a separate ticket).  The park features giraffes, ostriches, zebras, and lions with paws the size of my head.

Kolmården is only about an hour and a half drive from Stockholm.  It’s easy to get there just following the highway, but a detour onto the smaller roads through the Swedish forests makes for a much prettier drive. Although it also raises your chance of getting lost.  Luckily, even on the smaller roads, Kolmården has managed to get quite a few sign-posts along the way.

Adult tickets cost 310 SEK and children 200 SEK to visit both the zoo and the Safari Park.  That ticket price includes access to the zoo and marine park, the Safari Park, as well as plenty of child-friendly activities like the Wild Park and Bamses World.  Each year, the zoo focuses on one endangered animal and money from the entry price is given to that cause.  In 2010, the gorilla will be the focus of Kolmården.

If you’re hoping to get away from the stress that sometimes comes from travel in a big European city, take the time to head off to Kolmården.

Whenever I visit a new European city, I always try to take at least a day or two to explore somewhere away from the city, and it was no different when I was in Latvia’s beautiful capital, Riga. My guide book suggested a day trip to Sigulda, about 50 km away in the valley of the Gauja River, and I wasn’t disappointed.

Sigulda and its surrounds are easily reached by public transport and there is plenty to explore. It’s a really historical town and I looked round both the 13th century ruins of the old Sigulda Castle and the 19th century Kropotkin’s Palace – both spots for plenty of photos. There’s also a history museum and then the part I enjoyed best, a large sculpture park, with interesting artworks set in endless greenery – I really felt like I was far away in the countryside, which is always a nice contrast to a city stay.

I was there in summer, but it’s apparently quite famous as a winter destination – there’s skiing to be had, too – although I wonder if it might get a bit too crowded in winter! The city council of Sigulda has a detailed website if you want some Europe travel planning information.

Rotterdam is an excellent city break or day trip from the popular Europe destination of Amsterdam. The city is Holland’s port, one of the largest ports in Europe. I love walking along the river and exploring the many shops and little cafes. But more importantly,it’s also home to some of Europe’s most bizarre architecture. I believe in this case, pictures are worth a thousand words.

As this photo by Gastev shows, all seems normal on the surface. It’s a bit unusual to see such an American-esque skyline in Holland, but anyway…

But then wow – from nnova’s photo you realise not all of the skyscrapers are “normal”….

Some day the Rotterdam Library (on the left here in Sasha’s photo) looks like a cruise liner. And I don’t need to explain which building is called the pencil building.

Ah, and then we end up at the Cube Houses – Silvain takes a good shot, but these are probably the most photographed piece of architecture in Rotterdam.

We’d be here all day if I pointed out all the unique, unusual, bizarre, strange, interesting, weird, scary, odd architecture. So, my Europe travel tip for architecture enthusiasts when Europe travel planning is schedule a stop in to see Rotterdam’s architecture.

One of the (many) reasons I like living in Rome is the wonderful year-round climate. Still, come winter time, I do miss seeing snow – if not actually shovelling it – so I am happy to be close enough to the mountains to enjoy nice weekends skiing in Italy.

One of my top Europe travel tips is to visit the mountains close to Rome, the Apennine mountains in the neighbouring region of Abruzzo. Although Abruzzo skiing is not as good as that in the resorts of northern Italy, the proximity and convenience of the Abruzzo resorts make them extremely popular weekend destinations for Romans and a great Europe destination.

Abruzzo is an ideal travel destination in all seasons. In the winter there is downhill and cross-country skiing, sledding and ice skating. In the summer, there is fantastic hiking, biking and horseback riding. Abruzzo is still a fairly undiscovered Italian region and tourist masses never descend upon the charming mountain towns in the same numbers as they do in neighboring regions such as Tuscany and Umbria. Yet the towns are lovely, the food and wine extremely good, the mountain air rejeuvenating and the nature breathtaking.

One of the most popular Abruzzo skiing resorts for Romans also happens to be one of the closest and easiest to reach by highway, the town of Ovindoli. Ovindoli is about a 1 ½-hour drive from Rome and all but the last 15 km is easy highway driving. It is equidistant from the airport in Pescara, on the Adriatic coast. The town itself is small, with plenty of hotels and apartment rental options and many restaurants serving up hearty mountain fare.

Food in Abruzzo is simple, but excellent. Regional specialties include the chitarra pasta, fresh egg pasta – thicker than linguine, but narrower – served with the local saffron sauce, delicious gnocchi (especially good in this potato-producing region) with ragù (tomato sauce with meat), sausages, scamorza (melted cheese) or arrosticini (lamb skewers), all of it perfectly accompanied by the regional red wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

My family and I often enjoy Abruzzo skiing at Monte Magnola , just 3 km from the center of town. If you are driving up with your own car, head up early as the parking lots fill up quickly. There is also a frequent shuttle bus which departs throughout the day from the town square.

The mountain is panoramic and is popular with skiers and snowboarders. There are also easy slopes for children and beginner skiers and lessons can be easily arranged.

Just a few kilometers from Ovindoli is a second ski resort, Campo Felice . The closest towns are Rocca di Cambio (at 1434 meters from sea level, this is the highest town in the Apennine mountain range) and Rocca di Mezzo.

This isn’t an area used to lots of foreign tourism, so fewer people will speak English or other foreign languages. Nevertheless, you’ll be able to make yourself understood and will most likely have a great time in this unspoiled region. Enjoy your Abruzzo skiing holiday!