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Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen

“Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen, salty old queen of the sea….”  On my first trip to Europe, as a teenager, I landed in Copenhagen humming the catchy tune from the movie, Hans Christian Andersen. Ever since, when I’m in Denmark I think of  the song, because Copenhagen truly is wonderful. It’s a beautiful harbor city of islands, museums, parks and palaces; narrow cobblestone streets, wide boulevards and winding waterways, all  waiting to be discovered.

A boat tour on the canals is fun and gives an easy overview. Or take the hop-on, hop-off buses (water or land)  and stop wherever it suits you. Nyhavn is the place to stroll and people- watch, sit at a sidewalk cafe, and listen to street music. This quay by the harbor is lined with colorful buildings on one side and bobbing boats on the other.

Everyone wants to see the city’s emblem, Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale statue, the Little Mermaid. Tourists are sometimes disappointed — it’s only a tiny statue, after all — but the Mermaid has charm. Since August, 1913, she has perched wistfully on a rock in the harbor, and every August, swimmers dive in and swim in formation to create the number of years she’s been there. Assuming the tradition continues, it will be 100 in 2013.

During your exploration of Copenhagen you’ll see striking modern architecture, such as the controversial Opera House, with its swooping roof and enormous crystal chandeliers, which opened in 2005. More recently, the big blue Concert Hall opened in January 2009 with state-of- the-art acoustics in its four halls.

Not-to-be-missed attractions in Copenhagen

The Round Tower, built in 1642. Walking the spiraling ramp to the top (268 meters; 880 feet) takes you to a panoramic view of the city. The tower is the oldest functioning astronomical observatory in Europe.

Amalienborg Palace, the elaborate, Rococo winter residence of the royal family. Of the four buildings in the complex around a large courtyard, two are open for tours. Every day at noon, tourists gather to watch the changing of the Royal Guard.

Christiansborg Palace, in the center of Copenhagen, has been Denmark’s seat of government for 800 years. You can take guided tours through the fabulously decorated rooms, including the throne room. Don’t miss the underground part — under the palace are the ruins of a castle from 1167.

Tivoli Gardens, the world’s oldest amusement park, is a place of wonder and enchantment. The park’s colorful lights, restaurants, thrilling rides, and performances make it a continuous celebration. It’s gorgeous at night.

On many streets you’ll see nude photographs and posters in shop windows. Most Danes have no problem with this; they not only don’t like censorship, they consider an open attitude to be healthy. And good health is valued here. Danes bicycle on brightly decorated bikes, walk a lot, and eat well — plenty of seafood, smorrebrod (open-faced sandwiches) made with dark rye bread, and hearty Danish beer. Denmark has a reputation as the happiest country in the world. Do you think there’s a  connection?

Copenhagen has so many outstanding museums with superb collections of art, ancient artifacts, and historical treasures, they deserve special attention. Look for those in my next post.  Meanwhile, go shopping. Stroll the Stroget, Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street, and find hundreds of shops and every major designer house. Lots of street performers are there, too. Three of Copenhagen’s best-known and loved stores are Georg Jensen Silver, Royal Copenhagen Porcelain, and Rosenthal Studio-Haus. They’re all fun to visit, whether you purchase or not. Royal Copenhagen’s “lifestyle store” on Amagertorv now has a pink-walled cafe offering open-faced sandwiches, delectable cakes and coffee and tea, all served, of course, on the company’s fine porcelain. With nods to Danish design, a royal heritage, and humor, it is declared an “anti-Starbucks experience.”

Copenhagen is a gourmand’s delight, with a multitude of restaurants, several boasting Michelin stars. They range in price from sidewalk stands selling tasty hot dogs topped with shredded onions to ultra-pricey food palaces. At the high end, Noma springs to mind.  This fabulous two-starred restaurant, in a renovated waterfront warehouse, is considered to be one of the world’s ten best. The menu features elegant, contemporary Scandinavian food and great wines.

Era Ora, also expensive, is arguably the best Italian restaurant in the city, serving light and sophisticated Mediterranean meals along with excellent wines. It’s in an 18th-century building by the canals. Kong Hans Kaelder is known for world-class, inventive cuisine. Everything here is top-quality, including the fresh seafood prepared and presented with style. The restaurant is in a vaulted cellar in Copenhagen’s oldest building.

Leaving the spendy stratosphere for a bar and restaurant that is easier on the wallet, Barock provides a quiet, romantic setting and good value. Here you’ll find  contemporary Danish cooking and a well-considered wine list. There are outdoor tables in summer. For even fewer krone, and a delightful change, take a picnic to a park. A few choices: the Kastellet area near the Little Mermaid, the Botanical Gardens, and the Kongsgarten, Take-out foods are available in myriad delis and bakeries.

A Few Copenhagen Hotels We Recommend

Those looking for the ultimate in discreet luxury, stay at the posh Hotel d’Angleterre, a 250-year old monument to civilized living (closed for remodeling until 2012). Many notable names are on its illustrious guest list.

The 5-Star Radisson Blu Royal Hotel is located near the Tivoli Gardens and the Rosenberg Castle ans has easy access to the train station. Relax in this modern, but comfortably designed hotel.

The Less luxurious but providing charm and comfort, 3-Star Hotel Alexandra is centrally located, only 500 meters from Tivoli,  and has 61 rooms. The decor is Danish, the breakfast excellent, and the friendly staff will lend you a bicycle if you wish to ride.

For the modest budget, we recommend the 2-Star Saga Hotel, a family-run property located in the heart of Copenhagen, in the trendy  quarter of Vesterbro, near Central Station and the Tivoli Gardens.

Related posts:

  1. Up Close Picture of the Week: Copenhagen, Denmark
  2. Visit a Happy Place: Copenhagen, Denmark
  3. Copenhagen: a First Time Visitor’s Guide


Samsø Island, Denmark – Living the Green Dream

As a result of taking a “green” travel quiz, I learned just enough about a small island in Denmark to pique my interest. The question was: “According to Norse Mythology, this is the island in Denmark where Odin, the Norse God, learned Seid Magic”. Of course, I answered Faroe Islands. Wrong! The actual answer is an eco-utopia called Samso Island. Now I was on a mission to find out more about this unique island.

In 1997, The Danish Energy Agency sponsored a national contest to select the off-shore island with the best plan to become 100% energy-sustainable within a 10-year time frame. The results have been amazing.

Samso Island is located 9 miles off the Jutland Peninsula and a two-hour ferry ride from the mainland (Hou port). Although this island has formed a forward thinking social energy revolution, many travelers say a trip to the island is a trip back through time. The island has a population of about 4,300. There are 21 wind turbines that power the island, providing enough energy for the island and more. They sell leftover energy to the mainland for a profit. This island is completely self sufficient.  The introduction of these renewable energy projects has led to new markets and new well-paying jobs. Samso inhabitants now embrace a lifestyle that has stimulated their economy, improved their way of life, and kept their environment clean.

When visiting Samso you will need to bring your hiking boots and an eco mindset. You will also want to rent a bicycle to explore the area. Public transportation is also an option; the regular bus services are run by an energy-efficient telebus system where buses drive on request.

The first place to visit to fully appreciate what this island is all about is the Samsø Energy Academy where you will learn more about the results of the island experiment and “green technology” in general. Located in the Town of Ballen, a picturesque harbor village, this academy is a perfect example of building while leaving no carbon footprint.

One unique option when visiting Samso is to experience the Prairie Wagon Holiday. Take a few steps back in time and tour Samsø at a slow pace as two Norwegian Fjord horses pull your prairie wagon around the island. Then spend your nights at permanent camp  sites with other “prairie settlers”. They even provide a modern electrolux propane fridge on site which is essential for the beer that goes with the barbeque!

Next on the tourist route is Brattingsborg Manor, located in a park in the south of Samso. The manor was built in the English style in 1871-98. The main road passes the park and leads on through a wooded area to the coast. It is open to hikers and cyclists during daylight hours from June to August, and it is an extremely popular location for country walks. The “Vesborg Fyr” lighthouse to the south acts as a landmark.

The largest hotel on the island is the Ballen Badehotel with 37 rooms. This hotel is open seasonally April to Oct. All rooms are equipped with flat screen TVs and have free internet access. There is a seaside golf course nearby and the hotel will book golf packages for you. Their restaurant is considered the best on the island, offering classic Danish and French cuisine prepared with fresh, quality ingredients from the local farms and fishers. Most of the food is organic; locally grown produce growers thrive as the local people try to avoid imported produce grown with oil-based chemical fertilizers. In the summer months, you can usually hear a live orchestra playing in the courtyard to accompany your meal.

If you are looking for a nostalgic, relaxing, and healthy break from your daily hectic routine, Samso Island is just the place for your next eco-vacation.

Written by Carla Scott for EuropeUpClose.com

Related posts:

  1. Living Truly Green in Dublin, Ireland
  2. Denmark Tourist Information
  3. Copenhagen‘s Hotel Fox, a Decorator’s Dream


Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

If you’re holidaying in Copenhagen, you will have to search hard to get a cheap hotel room – and anything approaching a budget price is a little further out of the city centre. But if your budget is a bit higher there are plenty of good hotels located in the city centre. The information in this list of ten of the best Copenhagen hotels is for double rooms on a week night in September 2011 with verified guest ratings of at least 80%; prices are the best quoted for that night and include taxes and fees.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

View from a Copenhagen canal cruise

Copenhagen budget hotels

A little further out of town than some of the more expensive hotels, the Crowne Plaza Towers Copenhagen (88% rating, £95) is close to an underground station and only a short drive from the airport. It has modern fittings and amenities and a restaurant in house, as well as being a short walk to other restaurants and shops.

Not exactly budget-priced – but we are talking Scandinavia, after all – the Kong Arthur Hotel Copenhagen (82% rating, £115) is located mid way between the centre of Copenhagen and the airport. It faces Copenhagen’s lakes and is furnished in an antique style. As you are a little further out of the centre the restaurants might be important – they have an eclectic mix of three serving Spanish tapas, a sushi restaurant and an Italian place too.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

Round bed at Kong Arthur Hotel Copenhagen by Hardo

Copenhagen mid-range hotels

The Hotel Copenhagen Island (80% rating, £129) is where Karen stayed on her recent trip to Copenhagen and you can read her full review for further details. As an Aussie I’m intrigued to see that the architect who designed the Copenhagen Island Hotel is the son of Jorn Utzon who won the contest for designing our Sydney Opera House. And like the Opera House, this hotel is also waterside and looks particularly attractive.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

Hotel Copenhagen Island

The Adina Apartment Hotel (84% rating, £132) is a fifteen minute walk from the centre and located near the harbour. The apartments all have kitchen facilities and a separate dining area built in and you can get two bedroom apartments as well.

The Imperial Hotel Copenhagen (80% rating, £126) is one of the cheaper, yet still good, options for a central Copenhagen hotel. It is right in the city centre near Stroget and the Tivoli Gardens and is a moderate size with 240 rooms.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

Stroget in Copenhagen by plassen

Copenhagen high-end hotels

The Clarion Hotel Mayfair Copenhagen (84% rating, £158) labels itself a boutique hotel and was fully renovated in 2008 – although with 106 rooms it’s quite large for a boutique hotel. It is centrally located near the Tivoli Gardens and the Central Train Station. Room prices include breakfast and also a light buffet meal every evening.

One of the more luxurious spots in town, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Copenhagen (82% rating, £238) is also centrally located close to the Stroget and the Tivoli Gardens – in fact many of the rooms have views over Tivoli; it’s also almost opposite the main train station.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

Tivoli Copenhagen by stoneflower

The Marriott Hotel Copenhagen (82% rating, £170 – can be pricier, with rooms often going up to £300) is in the city centre, close to the Christiansborg Palace and the Town Hall Square. It’s quite large with almost 400 rooms and includes a gym and a swimming pool.

As fits a hotel with “admiral” in its name, the Admiral Hotel Copenhagen (82% rating, £164) is right on the harbour and close to the Christianborg Castle. The rooms might be a little small for the price but the location makes up for it if you are planning to do plenty of Copenhagen sightseeing.

The Bertrams Hotel Guldsmeden Copenhagen (84% rating, £179) is actually sold out for the date we checked – so it must be doing something right – but the best available price would have been £179. It is close to the Tivoli Gardens and the Stroget and has a few bonuses like an organic breakfast buffet.

Your tips for the best Copenhagen Hotels

If you have any recommendations for places to stay in Copenhagen please leave a comment.

Ten of the best Copenhagen Hotels for All budgets

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

I stayed at the Copenhagen Island Hotel for three nights in early November 2010, arranged by TBEX, when I attended the TBEX Europe bloggers event, where I gave my “So You Wannbe a Travel Blogger:  Keeping It Real” talk.

The hotel was designed by Danish architect Kim Utzon, son of Jorn who was responsible for the Sydney Opera  House. It is located either a 20 minute walk from Central Station or a five minute walk from Suburban Line rail station.  There’s a shopping centre next to the hotel.  As soon as you enter the hotel you get an impression of modernity, light and space.

Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

Copenhagen Island Hotel lobby

I was fortunate to be allocated a room at the back of the hotel with a balcony and a waterfront view.

My room was very stylish but a little on the small side with very little wardrobe space.  The hotel advertised free wifi throughout but I was unable to pick up a decent signal anywhere in my room. However when I mentioned this at reception they told me that they were aware of the problem and a wired connection was available in the room. One evening I had problems getting online even with the wired connection, so I phoned reception to check if there was a problem. A charming member of staff came up to my room to try to assist. I did use the wifi in the lobby and the signal there was excellent.

Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

My room at the Copenhagen Island Hotel

I managed to sit out on the balcony a couple of times, albeit it wearing my jacket, to admire the view.

Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

View from the balcony of my room at Copenhagen Island Hotel

The buffet breakfast was very good with a selection of cooked breakfast, cold meats, cheeses, fresh bread, fruit juices and Danish pastries.

Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

The sloping restaurant frontage at the Copenhagen Island Hotel

I think that the Copenhagen Island Hotel is in a lovely location, with attractive rooms in a beautiful building and with very warm and helpful staff.  It makes a good base for a Copenhagen city break, as long as you don’t mind not being right in the city centre and don’t have much luggage.

Review of Copenhagen Island Hotel

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Petanque in Copenhagen’s King’s Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

I didn’t have nearly enough time explore Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, during my visit in November 2010. I only had one free day for sightseeing, as I was in Copenhagen mainly to attend the TBEX Europe travel bloggers event. I took a Canal Cruise in the morning and decided to walk around in the afternoon, as I’d be sitting around a lot that evening at the airport and on the flight back to the UK.  I checked out my map and decided to head to King’s Gardens.

Petanque in Copenhagens Kings Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

King’s Gardens, Copenhagen

As I strolled through the Gardens I spotted a group of men  playing petanque (boules). I though that with the autumnal colours and Rosenborg Castle in the background, it was a lovely image of Copenhagen.  As I like to chat with locals when I travel, I approached the players, explaining I was a travel blogger and would they mind if I took some photos.  They all agreed that I could snap away.

Petanque in Copenhagens Kings Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

Rosenborg Castle in the background

Petanque in Copenhagens Kings Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

Can you spot the ball in the air?

Petanque in Copenhagens Kings Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

Who’s going to win this game?

Thanks very much guys for being so affable and giving me a little taste of local life with you on a sunny Autumn afternoon in the beautiful city of Copenhagen.

Petanque in Copenhagen’s King’s Gardens on a Sunday afternoon

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

When I was in Copenhagen in early November 2010 I went on a canal cruise, the one hour DFDS Guided Tour courtesy of Visit Copenhagen. It was a sunny but cold morning but I was prepared for that with my double trousers, thick fleece and hat. With all my warm garb, I was able to stay out at the front of the boat while many other passengers sought shelter in the covered, heated middle section of the boat.

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

Nyhavn, where I joined the Copenhagen Canal Cruise

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

Cruising down Nyhavn

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

The spire (to left of photo) made of dragon’s tails at the Old Stock Exchange

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

You can just make out the stained glass construction on the quayside

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

Back on terra firma in Nyhavn

I think that a Copenhagen Canal Cruise is a great way to see the city.

Copenhagen Canal Cruise: A Photo & Video Tour

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Europe a la Carte Podcast 11 November 2010: Visiting Copenhagen

In the 11 November 2010 edition of the Europe a la Carte Podcast I talk about my recent visit to the Danish capital of Copenhagen.

As I was there primarily to speak at TBEX Europe, a travel bloggers conference, I had limited time for Copenhagen sightseeing.  I went on a Canal Cruise, visited Rosenborg Castle and walked around King’s Garden and the Botanic Garden.

Europe a la Carte Podcast 11 November 2010: Visiting Copenhagen

Rosenborg Castle, Copenhagen

I stayed at the Copenhagen Island Hotel designed by Danish architect Kim Utzon.

Europe a la Carte Podcast 11 November 2010: Visiting Copenhagen

View over waterfront from balcony of my room at Copenhagen Island Hotel

You can subscribe to the Europe a la Carte Podcast in itunes or audioboo.

Europe a la Carte Podcast 11 November 2010: Visiting Copenhagen

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Grundtvig’s Church: A Copenhagen Must

Architecture lovers who find themselves in Copenhagen will no doubt head for one of the city’s most stunning architectural sites, Grundtvig’s Church.  If you’ve not heard of it, you’ll want to visit as soon as you take one look at a photograph.

Grundtvig’s Church: A Copenhagen Must

As one of the largest churches in Denmark as the biggest art structure of modern times, they say that this church is half monument and half religious building.  Similar to some of the world’s monumental buildings, it took two decades to finish, started in 1921 and finished in 1940.  The architect was a man by the name of P. V. Jensen Klint, though his sons carried on the work to completion, with further renovations and completion of additional buildings.  That brilliant is made up of over six million yellow bricks.

The exterior of this Copenhagen attraction is stunning, but inside it’s even more stunning.  The walls are white, giving you the impression of being in a gigantic pearl.  It has two organs, one which is the largest in the country (naturally, right?).

This architecture is called expressionist, which Wikipedia says is “distortion, fragmentation or the communication of violent or overstressed emotion.”  While I can’t say how this relates directly to Grundtvig’s Church, I can say you’ll feel your own emotions overstressed while you tour the building.  It really is that incredible.

This Copenhagen church is open to the public and is located the northern side of Copenhagen, in the Bispebjerg district.

Photo Credit: seier+seier

Grundtvig’s Church: A Copenhagen Must

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


I’m a speaker at TBEX Europe in Copenhagen 4 – 6 November

I’m delighted (and slightly apprehensive) to let you know that I’m one of the speakers at TBEXEurope in Copenhagen,  Denmark from 4 – 6 November 2010.

TBEX Europe - Travel Blogger Events in Europe

Travel Blog Exchange (TBEX) was created in 2009 as an online community for travel bloggers and web travel writers. This’ll be the first TBEX event to be held in the old continent and it’s great to see a big travel blogger event in Europe.

This’ll be my first visit to Denmark, so I’m looking forward to exploring Copenhagen.

TBEX Europe - Travel Blogger Events in Europe

Copenhagen by jimp994

Are you coming to TBEX Europe?  You can register here, the cost is $50 for travel bloggers.

You can follow the event on Twitter with the hashtag #tbexeurope.

I’m a speaker at TBEX Europe in Copenhagen 4 – 6 November

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Bring a flashlight.  Or if you don’t bring a flashlight, be sure to bring change so you can pay to use one.  I didn’t.  Instead, I stumbled around an underground casemate trying to use my cell phone for light.  It wasn’t the best way to see what was otherwise an incredible exhibition.

Under Kronborg Castle, in Helsingør, Denmark are the casemates (protected gun positions in a vaulted chamber beneath a defensive wall).  In those casemates you will learn the Danish history of Holger Danske.  A legendary character who is said to rise up and protect Denmark when the country finds itself in danger.  It’s a great story and one that has prevailed for several centuries.  So much so that one of the largest resistance movements in Denmark during WWII was called Holger Danske.

Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Early on in the casemates, a statue of Holger Danske greets you.  It is an impressive statue and sets the tone.  The rest of the casemates though takes some exploring.  And you are free to explore nearly everything and everywhere.  Use your flashlight.  Not just to keep you from stumbling, but to read what is written on the walls.

Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Facts about Denmark, the Holger Danske legend, the WWII resistance line the walls of the casemates.  Not every wall.  That would be too easy.  And not nearly as fun.  Instead it becomes almost a sort of scavenger hunt as the flashlight guides you through Danish resistance history.

Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Be warned, it is dark down there.  It is damp down there.  It’s even a bit cold down there.  And having grown up with two brothers, I am well aware that there were plenty of places to hide to scare my siblings.  Keep that in mind if traveling with young children.  Aside from that, the casemates at Kronborg Castle are one of my favorite places to visit in Denmark and a great Helsingor sightseeing attraction.

If you plan to stay in Helsingor, you can find the best deals on hotels using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.