Mini Travel Guides

Many Germans and other Europeans will be angry that a question like this would even be asked. For many years, Germany has put forth legislation and come down hard on anything related to the Nazi regime. Concentration camps, like Dachau, serve as reminders of the horrors of the Nazi regime. Germany has banned neo-Nazi groups. Denying the holocaust is a crime. So while it seems a bit far-fetched and extreme to say Germany could revert back to the days of Nazi rule, it may not be as far off as many think.

Dachau Concentration Camp

Recently, German Chancellor Angela Merkel stated that multiculturalism in Germany has been a failure in a recent speech to the Christian Democratic Union Party.  As foreign workers have come to Germany for work, Merkel stated that the integration of these foreigners hasn’t worked and that multiculturalism has indeed failed.  Her comments received a standing ovation as there seems to be a growing attitude in Germany that foreigners may no longer be welcomed.  While some may see these comments as a bit of an exaggeration for political purposes, there has been more information that signals this could be a growing concern in Germany.

A recent survey by the Friedrich Ebert Foundation think tank has revealed some scary attitudes of Germans – enough to raise some eyebrows.  13 percent of Germans would welcome a Fuhrer, the term for leader associated with Hitler for running the country with a firm hand.  While the percentages are low, it signals growing frustration in Germany.  But that’s not all.

Sixty percent of Germans want to restrict the practice of Islam while 17 percent think Jews have too much influence.  This is scary.  When examining the results of this survey, it seems to indicate that many Germans want to restrict foreigners, think the country should be ruled firmly, and that a number of ethnic groups are having too much influence in Germany.  While it doesn’t mean the Nazi regime is back, it could lead to an increase in Nazi groups and a bias against foreigners.

Unfortunately, this type of attitude isn’t just contained to Germany.  Other European nations, the US, Africa, and other nations are looking to close their doors to foreigners.  However, attitudes like this in Germany may remind many people of the attitudes and frustrations that existed during Nazi times.

Maybe these attitudes are just a reflection of the economic struggles many countries are going through.  Maybe German resentment is growing towards other nations in the EU for having to hold it up by bailing out countries like Greece.

From the German Chancellor to the people of the country, there seems to be a growing frustration with the way things are in Germany.  Do you believe this is a troubling sign for Germany?  Will reports like these affect your  European travel itinerary planning?

Is Germany in danger of going back to the Nazis?

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The south of Bavaria offers several beautiful lakes like the Tegernsee, Starnberger See or, my favorite, the Chiemsee. All are suitable for a daytrip from Munich, easily reached either by train or car.

I like the Chiemsee, because apart from the beauty of the lake surrounded by mountains, there are two islands to be enjoyed.  Each  is famous for something different. Herreninsel is the location of King Ludwig’s last dream castle and the Fraueninsel ‘s attractions are the Abtei, a very special kind of smoked fish and the works of several artists who have made their home on the island.

Departing with a ferry from the Fessler fleet, Prien is left behind and 20 minutes later the white washed walls of the Benediktiner Kloster rise out of the water, topped by a tower.

Fraueninsel and Abtei

Nuns have been living and working in the Abtei since it was founded by Duke Tassilo II of Bavaria in 782. They continue to do so today and maintain the cloister and themselves by offering spiritual retreats and talks and by running their cloister shop where they sell a well known – and quite strong – Klosterlikör, hand made marzipan often in the shape of Christina symbols, a wide variety of interesting books and their very own votive candles.

Handmade marzapan

In about 1 – 1 ½ hours at a leisurely path, you can walk around the entire island, it’s that small.

Romantic benches invite to a rest

Along the way you can rest on romantic benches overlooking the water and shaded by centuries old oak trees, or recharge batteries by stopping at one of several kiosks where you can sample a speciality which is only made on the island: smoked Renkenfilet. It’s a fish, similar to trout or mackerel, which is only found in the Chiemsee and the fishermen of the Fraueninsel have a secret and special way of smoking the filets. Served in a bun and topped with a mixture of cream and horseradish accompanied maybe by a beer which is also brewed in a tiny brewery on the island, you are fit to continue your stroll.

Smoked Renken filets

Which then leads to the artists and the potteries in particular. Three or four are located in one of the romantic island houses. Klampfleutner makes the most beautiful tiles and an example is even exhibited in the Heimatmuseum in Prien.  My eye was caught by the exceptional colors and subjects of another piece of pottery. A plate or bowl made to look like coral and an entire aquarium are works of art I have never seen elsewhere.

Ceramic bowl made to resemble coral

You can watch the artists at work and they are happy to explain their techniques. An  ideal place for a souvenir or a gift for friends at home. If you prefer paintings, you’ll also find an art gallery.

Returning back to the jetty, I visited the parts of the Abtei which are open to the public and the Klosterkirche where you can admire what’s known as Bayerischer Baroque in it’s most opulent form.

Ferries back to Prien or onwards to Herreninsel or else a roundtrip run every hour and, if needed, even more often.

Flagship of the Fessler fleet

Exploring the Fraueninsel in Bavaria, Germany

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Amanda has been doing a wonderful job writing about all there is to see in Berlin (Check out here Best of Berlin Travel Tips as well as Berlin’s Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Museum). And to be perfectly honest, she inspired me to revisit the trip I made there a while back.

I knew very little about the history behind the Berlin wall.  I’m at the age where I don’t really remember the events leading up to the fall of it, and it wasn’t distant enough to necessarily be covered in depth in my history classes, but not close enough that it was covered in my current events classes.  Basically, my education failed me.

I knew the wall fell. I knew it fell in 1989. I knew it was symbolic and historic and plenty of other -ics.  But I didn’t know what to expect when. visiting this Berlin sightseeing attraction.  It’s a strange idea in the first place.  How does one visit something that is historic for its very destruction?  I wanted to see it because it no longer existed.

That’s what made exploring Berlin so much fun though.  Because walking around the city, I suddenly stumbled upon a lone cement panel.  Remnants of the Berlin wall.  I headed to the east side and found a large stretch of wall which out into perspective just how high it was, just how dominating it was.  And of course, I wandered through the East Side Gallery and realized that here was an incredible stretch of the wall still standing.

Some trips stand out.  Berlin stood out.  For what was there, and for what wasn’t.  It’s a strange European travel tip, I know, but go to the city of Berlin and look for what isn’t there as well as what still remains.  Wandering around the city looking for the history of the wall becomes one of the best places (and non-places) to visit in Europe.

The Berlin Wall: Famous for its destruction

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One thing that always strikes me about planning travel in Germany is that there are so many medium-sized towns to explore. Every German city or town is a little different, and visiting some that are not too high on the typical tourist’s agenda can give you a more authentic experience, I think.

Recently we spent a day in Koblenz, a town of around 100,000 people, an ideal Frankfurt day trip, pretty much in the middle of Germany. It’s got a few sightseeing spots like the Deutsches Eck (a park overlooking where the Rhein and Mosel Rivers meet – very pretty), a relatively popular Military Museum, and Koblenz is also full of sculptures and fountains – like this one above, probably my favourite.

But more than ticking the boxes, visiting a European city or town like Koblenz is a way to experience something local. We strolled past the shops – even did a little shopping! – had a great lunch out in the sunshine, complete with some good German beer, and did our fair share of people watching too. I was also desperate to eat a Currywurst – a not particularly healthy German snack consisting of a chopped up sausage, special curry sauce and a piece of bread – and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Considering it was the middle of peak season and other cities we visited were packed full of tourists, Koblenz made a relaxing change.

Stroll Through Koblenz for a Typical German Town Experience

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When I wrote up our top Berlin tips recently I discovered I’ve never posted about one of my favourite things to do in Berlin, visiting the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. While I find the actual Checkpoint Charlie site now a little tacky – you can have your photo taken there with actor-guards, for a price – the nearby museum is really worth a visit.

The Haus am Checkpoint Charlie actually started way back in 1962 and was founded as a private museum by Rainer Hildebrandt as a museum of “non violent international protest”. Right from the start they collected items that had been used in escapes or escape attempts over the wall, and today those are the most interesting exhibits for me. It’s hard to imagine that back when they started the museum, they probably thought the Berlin Wall would be there for the rest of their lives – and now it’s gone and the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie museum is a tourist attraction which people from any country can freely visit.

There are also more general exhibits explaining the history of the Berlin Wall and the shop in the ground floor is one of the most interesting museum shops I know – I love the old posters from Berlin Wall days. The Checkpoint Charlie Musuem is one of those clever Berlin attractions which stays open late (I love sightseeing at night!) – its daily opening hours are 9.00am to 10.00pm.

(Photo of an escape attempt courtesy of Olivier Bruchez)

Berlin’s Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Museum

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Berlin is one of the most exciting cities in Europe, and my personal favourite European travel destination Berlin’s got everything: fascinating museums, lots of tasty food, interesting locals and of course, the legacy of a truly up and down history. I’ve collated the best things to do in Berlin, written by members of the Europe a la Carte blogging team to help you plan your trip to the German capital.

Best Museums in Berlin

Museum lovers will be in their element in Berlin. Heather recommends the Pergamon Museum, saying it’s one of the best Berlin museums on the Museuminsel (Museum Island).

Part of the Ishtar Gate at the Pergamon Museum by luisvilla

Less well-known but equally inspiring, Lindsay says the Käthe Kollwitz Museum gave her a lot of food for thought.

Inside the Käthe Kollwitz Museum by Lindsay Sydenham

Heather also suggests visiting the Jewish Museum and the Anne Frank Museum. Personally, I’d say the Jewish Museum is the best museum in Berlin, and well worth at least an afternoon.

Part of the intriguing Jewish Museum by Goodnight London

Best Street Art in Berlin

What would a visit to Berlin be without finding part of the Berlin Wall? Marcus shared his experience at the East Side Gallery.

A famous panel of the Berlin Wall at the East Side Gallery by qyphon

Best Views in Berlin

One of my favourite outings in Berlin is a walk up into the spiral dome of the Reichstag. Not only do you get to enjoy its impressive architecture, but you also get great views over the city.

Inside the dome of the Reichstag by pit-yacker

Best Shopping in Berlin

Berlin’s a great place to shop, and the Ku’damm or Kurfürstendamm is definitely the hotspot – and Heather lists some nearby sights if shopping gets too much.

The Kurfürstendamm by night by Schrottie

Lindsay recommends a visit to the Art Nouveau style Hackesche Höfe complex consisting of eight interlinked courtyards.

Jugendstil courtyard at the Hackesche Hofe by paularps

Best Free Attractions in Berlin

It costs nothing to enter the Berlin Cathedral, says Lindsay, who claims it’s one of her favourite spots in Berlin.

The impressive Berlin Cathedral by ilm19

Best Food in Berlin

Lindsay suggests that a traditional Turkish döner is a delicious typical Berlin food to try – thanks to the influence of the city’s large Turkish population.

Ready to eat: a Turkish döner by andynahman

Best Transport in Berlin

To get a quick overview of where many of the main Berlin attractions are, Heather recommends a rickshaw ride.

Rickshaws parked near Brandenburg Gate by swamysk

Best Day Trips from Berlin

If you want to escape the city, head to Sanssouci Palace, enjoyed by Marcus as a relaxing getaway.

World Heritage site Schloss Sanssouci by Gertrud K

If you’re planning a trip to Berlin, you can find the best deals at Berlin hotels using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Your Berlin Tips

With so much more Berlin sightseeing on offer on the main tourist trail like Checkpoint Charlie and the Brandenburg Gate, the list of great things to do in Berlin is practically endless. If you have some tips, please let us know in the comments.

Twitter Tips

@Welcome Beyond: ‘Berlin Underworld’ is also worth visiting: http://bit.ly/adUMeQ

Best of Berlin Travel Tips

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The Munich museum the Residenz was the Stadtschloss of the kings of Bavaria. One of the best ways to get there is by bicycle, set off on a sunny afternoon for a ride through the Hofgarten to reach the Residenz.

Hofgarten in Munich

Chain your mount to the many clearly indicated railings and enjoy a walk through the elaborate design, including a labyrinth, of the park and garden. A few steps away is the Residenz.

Munich loves bicycles

It’s open every day from 9am to 6pm, so it’s an ideal Sunday destination. Joint admission for museum and treasury is EURO 9 and,

My favorite is the treasury. When visiting you have to check in bags, backpacks and anything bigger than a small purse. (You can keep your kids though). Duke Albrecht V made a provision in his will that all valuable pieces which the ruler’s passion for collecting had assembled, should forthwith be given a special place and could never, ever be sold. That was the beginning of what today can be admired in the treasury. His successors continued to add and the treasury was first opened to the public in 1897.

An elaborate crown in the treasury

I love the intimate atmosphere of the ten rooms where the secular and  the ecclesiastical pieces are lovingly exhibited. It’s more like visiting the family treasures that a very rich uncle keeps in his mansion as opposed to visiting a museum of the magnitude of say –  Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace. Crowns, necklaces, artifacts and religious objects as well as a few bejeweled weapons are each displayed in their separate glass cases and bathed in dim light which brings out the sparkle.

Part of the royal insignia

The museum shop offers a great selection of books about the history of Bavaria, the kings and queens and the provenance of the treasures. As the Residenz is conveniently located in the center of Munch, the museum trip can easily be ended by a walk or cycle to nearby Odeonsplatz or a coffee in the Hofgarten cafeteria.

Other Munich attractions worth visiting are the BMW Car Museum and St Peter’s Church tower.

Munich Museums – The Residenz

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Although I got somewhat side tracked by my discovery of the sights in Prien am Chiemsee in my recent day trip from Munich, I did make it over to Herreninsel to visit Herrenchiemsee, the last and most costly castle built for King Ludwig II of Bavaria.

I made my way to the dock in Prien/Stock where the ferries depart which take visitors either on a round trip of the Chiemsee or to the Herreninsel and Fraueninsel. The best and most romantic of the fleet is the Ludwig  Fessler, a paddle steamer and I was lucky to catch that one.

The Ludwig Fessler paddle steamer

The trip to the Herreninsel is short, some 15-20 minutes but it’s already beautiful to watch the castle which was modelled on the Palace of Versailles appear among the woods from the lake side.

Facade of Schloss Herrenchiemsee

Currently, a new movie, The Three Musketeers, is being shot in Bavaria and the romantic structure of Schloss Herrenchiemsee provides a perfect backdrop for filming. The cast include such celebrities as Orlando Bloom and Christopher Waltz, but, sadly on the day I visited, no filming took place and I missed that excitement.

But Herrenchiemsee is quite a curiousity. It’s a prime example of what happens, when a king runs out of money: one half of the castle is furnished and decorated with incredible opulence and baroque beauty and in the other you find nothing but bare and stark walls, including what Ludwig called his bath which is, in fact, a massive swimming pool which was to be heated by the most advanced heating system available at the time.

Leaving the ferry, you make your way to the ticket counter and book your guided tour to see the interior of the castle and the museum on the ground floor. Horse drawn carriages await to take you through the woods and slightly uphill to the castle and gardens, but I preferred to walk along the summer path which takes about 20 minutes.

Horse drawn carriages on the way to the castle

Guided tours are available in several languages and I could have spent many more hours admiring the richness and fabulous decorations of the famous staircase and the mirror hall, but the tour guides are relentless and you are not allowed to stroll on your own. You can’t take pictures either.

Ludwig ‘s idol was King Louis XIV of France and he planned Herrenchiemsee as a monument to his hero as well as a place of rest and  retreat from the world  from himself. No expense was spared to surpass even the splendor of Versailles but finally the monarch ran out of money and  could find no further resources to borrow. His last dream castle remained unfinished although habitable, but Ludwig only spent nine days at Herrenchiemsee in the fall of 1885 and a year later he drowned in still unsolved circumstances in the Starnberger See.

Louis XIV was the sun king, whereas Ludwig II adored the night and the moon. Blue was his favorite color and he ordered a special blue lamp in the shape of a globe to submerge his bedroom in moonlight.

The museum on the ground floor exhibits his death mask as well as many furniture from the castle and from the Residenz, his main residence  in Munich. After all that sparkle, gold and blue it is very nice to walk in the vast gardens and to watch the fountains and statues and then to walk on to the monastery which is important in modern German history because it was here that the new German constitution, the Grundgesetz, was hammered out in 1948.

Gardens of Schloss Herrenchiemsee

Because of the filming a lot of scaffolds did impair the views and to make matters worse the magnificent Schlosshotel  which offers luxury accommodation and a lovely garden for a typical Brotzeit is also shrouded in dust sheets and canvas because major repairs are under way, but even so a trip to the Herreninsel is a memorable outing in all seasons. In very harsh winters,, the Chiemsee freezes solid and sometimes it’s even safe to walk across the ice to Prien.

Herrenchiemsee, Germany: location of the latest Three Musketeers movie

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Oktoberfest is one of the biggest celebrations in Germany.  While the name can be a bit deceiving, Oktoberfest actually happens in late September.  And if you have ever been to Germany during this festival, it is a beer lover’s dream!  The Hofbrauhaus brewery has one of the largest tents at the Oktoberfest, where only its own beer is served.

Hofbrauhaus am Platz  Munich from bongo vongo‘s photostream

In Munich, the brewery has a long standing history, owned by the government, it is popular with locals and tourists alike.  Hofbrauhaus am Platz a great place to enjoy some of Germany’s best beers while taking in the local atmosphere.  While many other pubs and bars in Germany are more traditional, there is something about the Hofbrauhaus that makes this place worth visiting.

For one, it’s incredibly big.  With huge tables, entertainment, and a restaurant, the Hofbrauhaus is big enough for locals and tourists alike.  There are even tables reserved for regular guests at various hours throughout the week and month.  Visiting the Hofbrauhaus is an experience in itself as it goes back many years in German history.

The first idea for a Hofbrauhaus goes back to the late 16th century under the Duke of Bavaria, Wilhelm V.  In 1592, a master brewer was hired and the first “brown” Hofbrauhaus started at the Alter hof.  A brown ale was the only thing served back then.  Since that time, beers evolved and the Hofbrauhaus has been part of the beer evolution for over 400 years.

The Hofbrauhaus has had a long history in Munich and it’s not without controversy.  In 1920, Hitler declared the 25 theses of the National Socialist program (which later became the Nazi party) here at the Hofbrauhaus.  History even records some of the first attacks on Jews here at the Hofbrauhaus.

Fortunately, the Hofbrauhaus has many more pleasant memories in its history.  It’s 400 year history marks the evolution of beer in Germany and it is the center of many great moments in German history.  Whether history was being made or being discussed, the Hofbrauhaus is a long standing tradition of German beer and a part of the culture.

While many people enjoy the atmosphere, beers, and celebration that is Oktoberfest, the Hofbrauhaus is a German institution that deserves a visit.  Enjoy a beer, meet some locals, and enjoy a piece of tradition in Germany.  The Hofbrauhaus has recently opened breweries in other cities like Bremen, Hamburg, and similar sites all over the world.

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Celebrating Oktoberfest – the Hofbrauhaus in Munich

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After packing, booking child-friendly hotels, finding a suitable hire car and thinking about the long flight from Australia to Europe, all with my four-month-old baby, I have good news for all of you who have asked me: we all survived the trip! In fact, as far as European trips go, this was one of the easiest I’ve ever done and actually a lot of fun with our baby in tow.

So, what worked well on our trip? Here’s a summary:

• The car hire worked perfectly – I’d never rented a car from Frankfurt Airport but it’s superbly organised there, whichever agency you choose. Our rental included a baby seat which was clean and safe and was in fact liked much more by our baby than his car seat back home!
• The hotels we used were friendly and accommodating when it came to our baby. In a small one I ended up having the run of the kitchen to boil up water and whatever else I needed to do. Any baby equipment supplied like cots were already in the rooms when we arrived and were of great quality.
• We didn’t pack too much! Thanks to some crazy “summer” weather which had the temperatures ranging widely during our stay, we even had our baby wear all the clothes we’d brought for him. It was also easy to buy extra supplies of things like nappies in Germany, as I’d expected.
• The long haul flight was easier for our baby than us – he had the benefit of being able to lie down in the bassinet provided and he slept most of the way. Lucky thing!

And what went wrong? Not too much! But just in case you need to learn from my mistakes:

• Pack some larger clothes for your baby. We were away almost a month and by the end our poor baby boy was a bit cramped in the clothing we’d packed – he’d grown so much!
• And if you’re taking a baby to visit relatives, make sure there’s enough space in your suitcase to pack all the presents you receive for him! We had a bit of juggling to do as we packed for our return trip.

Surviving European travel with a baby

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