Mini Travel Guides

Andrew Hunter of TripHunter gives us four European destination suggestions for chasing some warm sunshine in September and October.

“The days are getting shorter in the UK and as we reluctantly pack away the barbecue and mankini for another year, some of us gaze longingly at the “Summer 2011 Holiday Smackdown” brochure and ask ourselves “Do I really have to wait nearly a year before I get some sun?” No you don’t.  Here are my tips for Autumn sun in Europe.

Malta

Gozo, Malta

Malta is far enough south in the Mediterranean to enjoy prolonged summer warmth. In fact, it’s on approximately the same latitude as Tangiers and Tunis, and enjoys the same type of climate well into the Autumn months. Easily accessible from the UK, Malta is a surprisingly biodiverse island with sandy beaches and rolling green hills, punctuated with honey-coloured limestone buildings give Malta it’s unique profile. Only 2.5 hours away from the UK, Malta is becoming an increasingly popular destination for Autumn sun seekers.

San Sebastian, Spain

San Sebastian, Spain

A surfers and cyclists paradise with temperatures keeping their head above 20°C well into October. The people are friendly, the bars and restaurants still vibrant in the evenings and the ocean swell begins to kick up at this time of year making it even more appealing to surfers and boogie boarders. The 2nd week of September is a particularly good time of year to visit North West Spain, as it’s “Basque Week”. Expect cider guzzling, rowing competitions, traditional Basque poetry, dancing, stone tossing and much, much more.

Santorini, Greece

The Greek island of Santorini

Be sure to book your hotel in advance if you plan to visit this Greek island during September festivities Santorini, Greece.  Captain Nemo from “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea” once called Santorini “the mysterious island” and this observation remains true even today. Truly spectacular volcanoes, beautiful beaches (check out Perissa, Vlihada and Red Beach) and outstanding, if not pricey, hotels. You can expect the weather in Santorini in October/November to be a dry 25°C+ with most evenings still warm enough to wear a t-shirt. I honestly can’t remember the last time I wore a t-shirt on an English October evening.

Tenerife

Lago Martiánez, en Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerifeby Robert

For predictable warmth, Tenerife is hard to beat. With only 6 degrees C difference between the average high and average low, you know you’re in for sunny days and balmy evenings. Only 3.5 hours flight away from the UK, Tenerife is accessible from almost every commercial airport in the UK and is serviced by a variety of different airlines and package holiday providers

So fear not, fellow Vitamin-D junkie, there’s sun to be found in Europe after Summer has deserted UK shores. You just have to know where to look!”

Guest Post: In search of Autumn sun in Europe

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

After my wonderful walk around Naxos town, I decided to explore the rest of the island with a guided Naxos tour. This Greek island really deserves more than a short stop over or a mere beach holiday, because apart from many historical sites, the variety of landscape, tiny villages glued to steep mountains and  terraced fields as opposed to the fertile planes of the coast is extremely interesting to see. The day long tour I took with one of several agencies which are to be found along the harbour in Naxos town is my day trip recommendation. The tour I took lasts about 8 hours, costs €25, leads right along the mountainous interior to another resort named Apollonas on the northern tip and back along the coast to Naxos town.

Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and although all these tours always include one or two stops at factories, workshops, craftshops etc. to entice the tourist to buy some local stuff, the two stops on this tour were quite enjoyable and interesting.

The first was at a small workshop were you could watch how the quite lovely Naxos ceramics were made.

Typical Naxos ceramic

The next was in the town of Halki in the island’s  interior  and introduced us to a really unique speciality of Naxos: the quite potent Kitron liquor which is distilled there. It comes in three colours, orange, light green and plain white depending on what’s added and is basically made from the fruit and leaves of the citron tree which is similar to the lemon tree but stronger in scent and flavour.

Different colors of Naxos Kitron

Looking at the old photographs which document the history of the distillery, not to mention a sip here and there to taste the product, makes that ‘commercial’ stop a delight.

Entrance to the destillery

It was also quite necessary to steady the nerves for the hair-raising road up and down and around never ending mountains, deep ravines with hardly visible bottoms, terraced but often abandoned fields and Naxos’ famous emery mines.

Apart from potatoes (exported all over Greece and further afield because of their outstanding quality) emery and some marble are Naxos’ most famous exports.

We came though the lovely town of Koronas where we witnessed, first hand, a traffic jam Naxos style and many winding streets with shops, boutiques and cafes inviting to a rest.

Traffic jam Naxos style

Then is was back to antiquity, the ‘broken’ kouros of Mesi awaited. It’s a striking example that not all the work of the talented stone masons of the 6th century BC were perfection, this massive, 17m long statue of the God Dionysus got somehow botched, it broke at the neck, was never completed and just left were it was lying at the site of the marble quarry it was hewn from.

The broekn statue of the God Dionysus

Then we reached the costal resort of Apollonas for lunch and, if desired, a swim at the beach. Although it appears that Apollonas was discovered as a holiday resort by Greeks from Athens who decided to build some summer houses there, I was a bit disappointed. The beach is narrow and didn’t even offer sun beds or umbrellas and there was nothing much else to do or see.

Apollonas

Back to Naxos town on a more sedate road leading through the fertile coastal regions I did have a great Naxos tour and discovered the other side of this lovely Greek island.

Exploring the interior of the Greek island of Naxos

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As the history fan approaches the port of Naxos Town standing on deck the ferry, he or she will rejoice: it can already be seen from a distance that nearly 2000 years of history represented by some stunning monuments, can easily be explored and enjoyed within walking distance of each other. Sure, some legwork is required, but it is not too strenuous as opposed to other Greek islands and, as Naxos according to mythology is the birthplace of Dionysos, many lovely bars, cafes and restaurants invite to recharge batteries during the walk.

Cafes in the old part of Naxos

First on my Naxos sightseeing schedule was the Portara which is also the trademark of Naxos. The monumental gates stand on a tiny island connected to Naxos town and the port by a causeway. Built in the 6^th century BC the gates are thought to have belonged to a temple to Apollo which however was never completed. Stone blocks from the unfinished temple were transported and used for other buildings but the gates were just too massive to be moved, so, they still dominate the view and are a must see. t

Portara - gates to the Apollo temple

Be careful though especially if a strong meltemi is blowing which is often the case in summer, I nearly got blown off the causeway but then I weigh only 48 kilos. Waves are crashing against the seawall on either side of the causeway and count on a – rather refreshing – sea water shower on your walk across. The views down the steep cliffs are nearly as amazing as the sight of the gates themselves.

That's what's along the causeway!

Having it made across safely, I had my first refreshment stop in the beautiful café which is tucked in a sheltered niche of the causeway.

Back in Naxos harbour, I made my way along the waterfront and then turned left towards a sign indicating the Old Market. It’s really one of the many access roads to the castle of Marcos Sanudo which is the other trademark of Naxos. Built in 1207 it marked the beginning of the rule of the Venetians over the island which lasted until 1564 when it was conquered by the Ottomans.

Marcos Sanudo's Venetian castle

Exploring the castle and in fact the entire Venetian settlement which covers the hill is a truly unique experience and one of the best things to do in Naxos. It’s uphill but not very steep and broad stone steps make it easy. The Old Market has a lot of wonderful shops, some souvenir, but some with amazing artwork, paintings and antiquities. Much of the way you walk through a tunnel which gives shelter from the summer heat.

Entrance to the Old Market

At every twist and turn Venetian houses with their low entry ways emerge, all inhabited today and many of the mini mansions still in possession of the successors of the original Venetian owners.

I would have loved to visit the Venetian museum, but unfortunately I was too late. Make a note that museums are closed on Monday and on the rest o the week close at 3pm. Some do not open later, but the Venetian museum re-opens at 7.30pm. You can also admire the house of Marcos Sanudo himself, a church at the very top and simply enjoy one fabulous view after another. What I found particularly appealing is that this historical site is not a ‘site’ at all but a richly inhabited part of Naxos town where more than a few studios and apartments are for rent.

I arrived back down on the other end of the promenade where you find a café which offers the richest and most sinful ice cream dishes I have had in a long time.

A well deserved ice cream at the end of the day trip

Exploring the history of the Greek island of Naxos

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

It seems everyone was quite interested in my mention of Europe’s most westerly point – all four or five of them!  It seems that Europe’s boundaries are a very antiquated way of defining the continent.  Do you count the sovereign islands that dot the Atlantic, Arctic and Mediterranean?  What about Russia – is it in Europe?

For your sun birds looking to head south, this problem causes grief no matter what direction we had.  But, if you’re looking for the most southerly point on the European continent, the winner is Gavdos, Greece.

Gavdos is a tiny piece of land floating south of the much larger island of Crete.  Cape Trypiti is at the southern end of the island, where a huge slab of rock juts out into the sea, pointing due south.

The island itself is more popular as a bird migration stop than a tourist haven.  Facilities such as bed & breakfasts or restaurants are few and far between, but the lack of tacky souvenir shops might be a secret blessing.  The hot spot is a faux lighthouse (it is a reproduction of one that was formerly there) that is now a cafe.

Otherwise spend some time here relaxing – it’s fairly good for walking and hiking given the lack of obstructions, and the lack of many tall trees means your views are rarely blocked.

Have you been to Gavdos?  What did you think?

Photos by Wolfgang Staudt

European continent’s most southerly point: Gavdos, Greece

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

The Greek island of Crete has seen Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman rule but some of the most spectacular traces of Venice have been left in the capital Heraklion.  The Venetians ‘conquered’ Crete in 1204, but for once not by way of bloody wars and violence; no, they simply bought it in a complicated deal which involved many power changes in the entire area. And they came to stay – for more than 400 years, until in 1669 they finally lost it to the Ottomans after the longest siege in history which lasted no less than 24 years! The last outpost, the tiny island of Spinalonga, resisted even longer, thanks to the tremendous fortifications which the Venetians built to defend their strategically important island.

Morozini Fountain, Heraklioin

I stayed in the lovely coastal town of Agia Pelagia, approx. 35 km west of Heraklion and decided to make a day trip to do some Heraklion sightseeing.  As I like to do, I took the local bus which runs four times a day and costs €3.50 to enjoy a journey for which the expression ‘scenic route’ could have been invented. Downhill it goes through hair pin bents to tight that the bus sometimes had to reverse to manage or to let an oncoming car pass, opening up views of the coastline far below, caves, mountains, castles, chapels, tiny islands floating in the sea, hidden sandy beaches, you name it it’s there.

I never cease to marvel at the skills of the bus drivers, who negotiate these dangerous roads with one hand on the wheel, the other clamping their mobile phone to their ear as if they were cruising along a comfortable 4 lane motor way. I did breathe a silent little sigh of relief when the bus joined the main road which leads into the center of Heraklion. The route at the central bus station which is very conveniently located within a short walking distance from Heraklion’s first, and major, Venetian attraction: the massive Fortress of Koulos which sits along the harbour.

Fortress of Koulos by bazylek

First stop was the lovely Marina Café,  which affords a view over the many yachts and the castle beyond. Known as Castella a mare in Venetian times and built in it’s present form between 1523 and 1540 you can walk around at your leisure and admire the thick walls, many carvings and the symbol of the Lion of San Marco everywhere.

Heraklion is at present undergoing a major ‘face lift’ which means that many historical sites and modern building are marred by scaffolding and other construction paraphernalia but even so you can see enough to get an idea of how massive and at the same time graceful the Venetian structures are.

Across the road from the fortress you find huge vaulted buildings which used to be the Venetian shipyards, but as they are being restored it is somewhat difficult to get really close.

Remains of Venetian shipyard in Heraklion by bazylek

Modern (and expensive) apartment buildings are springing up all along the seafront and a long promenade is in the final stages of completion.

Next to the ship yards used to be the red light district and, as a knowledgable local friend pointed out to me, two brothels remain in operation. They are not what you would expect, just two tiny white house, side by side, with no signs whatsoever but, as he told me with wink, a red light comes on at night.

Then I climbed broad stone steps and headed into the old town of Heraklion. Near St. Titus Square you find another fine example of Venetian architecture: the Loggia which housed the town hall and opposite the famous Morozini fountain with four Venetian lions spouting water. Remnants of a Venetian palace are nearby, but the ruins are closed to the public, It is however planned to restore them in the future.

Venetian Loggia near St. Titus Square

The whole area is a pedestrian zone which makes it easy to stroll around, stop at any of the many tiny shops and cafes or visit a covered market which offers fruit and food as well as the ever present Greek sponges.

Enjoying a drink in Heraklion's old town

There is of course the Archaeology museum to visit with its treasures from Knossos and Feistos and, returning to the bus station you can catch a tour bus to Knossos which is only 5 km away. A full day can easily be spent in Heraklion enjoying old and new side by side.

Entrance to Knossos

What are your recommendation for places to visit in the Cretan capital of Heraklion?

Exploring Heraklion’s Venetian Past

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

On a day trip from Heraklion to the traditional mountain village of Achlada, located approx. 25 km west, I discovered how luxury and the protection of the environment can go beautifully hand in hand by a visit to the Mourtzanakis Residence.

Eco tourism has come a long way from being rather basic and more associated with pitching your tent in the wilderness and picking berries in the forest (without littering of course) than with soft beds, rain showers and every imaginable creature comfort you could wish for.

Villa of the Mourtzanakis Residence

The hotel which consists of a main building and four individual villas nestles cosily wedged among steep mountains dotted with thousands of olive trees and affords stunning views of the sea below.

It was actually the view and more explicitly the sunset which, according to Marcos, the owner’s , story inspired the creation of this resort. ‘I sat there one night,’ he said, ‘and saw the sun go down and I thought: this is the place to create a  refuge for stressed-out  people, to contemplate Crete’s wonderful nature, to get in touch with the local flora and fauna, to experience Greek hospitality and sample its rich and unspoilt cuisine and, last but not least, to help protect the island and its eco system.’

Sunset over Achlada

And he set to work. The villas are all built from local stone and designed like traditional houses with a fire place and an upper gallery, called oda. The surrounding  walls and pavements are equally made from hand hewn stone making use of local craftsmen and the work is not yet finished.

The rooms are furnished in a minimalist yet comfortable style, but the main attraction is the library with its huge collection of history, art and entertainment books, the lounge with its fireplace where the multi national guests meet for a ‘raki’ to exchange their live stories and talk about the excursions, trips and adventures of the day.

Guest lounge and fire place

Greek breakfast at it’s finest, including only local products like cheese and honey, is served at a communal table and prepared by Marcos’ wife Esmeralda (as she has a multi national background too, her name varies). She is a remarkable lady who didn’t have a clue about cooking, but fully supporting her husband’s idea of this eco haven, engaged the help of local women and learned all the details from them in no time at all.

Birthday party for a guest from France

A swimming pool invites to a dip and the vast terrace is the place to chill out in the evening.

Herbs and plants abandon in the surrounding gardens and no meal is served without making ample and skilful use of them.

Marcos or his son who is an absolute expert, will take you on a walk to the village of Achlada with its Venetian past and many, many tiny alleys and half decaying stone houses which however are now on the brink of restoration.

Things to in the area around the Achlada Mourtzanakis Residence

Only a few miles on is the small town of Agia Pelagia with four beaches or you can make your way to Fodele and visit the birth house of the great painter El Greco and stop at a tiny Byzantine chapel which is not much to look at from the outside but takes your breath away as soon as you enter. The entire chapel was covered with paintings and images of the saints, the holy family and other Christian motives and so much has been preserved and the colours seem so incredibly fresh that you  think they might be no older than say 100 years.

Birth House of El Greco

Byzantine Chapel near Fogele

Photography is not allowed inside but you can buy postcards.

Round off the day with a stroll through the ‘town center’ of Fodele with its massive, century old olive trees, have a coffee at one of the tiny cafes and simply enjoy.

Beach at Agia Pelagia

The Achalda Mourtzanakis Residence is very highly rated by guests on TripAdvisor, so it sounds like one of the best places to stay on Crete.

Staying at the Mourtzanakis Residence in Achlada on the Greek island of Crete

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For anyone with a even a passing interest in European archaeology, the Greek island of Crete is certainly one of the best places to visit in Europe. The island has some of the iconic archaeological sites that will satisfy any passion for prehistory; the most well known of these is the ancient Palace of Knossos. But for anyone who would like to experience an island that is not thronging with bus/ferry-loads of tourists all jostling for the perfect picture against a backdrop of now questionable archaeological reconstructions, rediscovering just a few of the many hundred Byzantine churches should be on your Crete sightseeing itinerary.

At the beginning of the last century there were said to be over 800 Byzantine churches. These are small churches scattered about the island, some are located in very quaint and picturesque villages, others now out in open fields. They date from about 1000 years ago to the sixteenth century, therefore during the Venetian rule of Crete. And many still have some of the most amazing fresco-style wall paintings. Most of the Byzantine churches still standing today, that contain the wall paintings such as those photographed below, date to the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

My Europe travel tip for anyone wishing to go off the beaten track on the island of Crete is to get yourself a good guidebook and head for the district of Rethymnon. The ancient Venetian port and fort of Rethymnon should not be missed either. But, head out from the city and explore the Cretan countryside. Most good guidebooks for Crete indicate the location of these churches, and once you have found one or two, you will then get a feel for what you are looking for and the others will come quickly. There are about 150 in the Rethymnon district alone. Some of the churches are out in the middle of fields (above), while others are in small villages. Here you will find some some great, local restaurants, where there is little or no English spoken, but some great authentic food.

Having visited Crete a number of times, and seeing all the major archaeological sites, during my last trip I spent a week staying at a self catering villa just north of Rethymnon and used that as a base to explore the area. I was quite surprised to find many of the churches left open and unattended. But these lovely Crete attractions do not see that many visitors, so perhaps it is not that surprising.

Some of the wall paintings are very fragile, well they are over 500 years old, so be mindful of the age of this artistic tradition and do not touch them as your fingers have acidic sweat that destroy the pigments.

Many people may wonder if my geography is correct when I speak of Europe and the World Cup. A couple of weeks ago I wrote about “Getting ready for the World Cup through European travel” and with the World Cup kicking off  this Friday June 11 in South Africa, one of its biggest, most passionate audiences will be in Europe. France, Italy, Germany, Portugal, Spain, Serbia, England, Slovenia, Denmark, Netherlands, Slovakia, Switzerland, and Greece all take their shot at winning the World Cup.

The World Cup in South Africa - Europe's biggest destination? (Photo by Clare Appleyard)

For the casual fan or for someone who is not interested in football at all, one may wonder how this relates to seeing more of Europe. The answer to that question?  The people of Europe.  Anyone who travels to these European countries will see a side of Europe that only appears once every four years. Of all the football fans in the world, only South Americans can compete with Europeans in their passion for football.

The World Cup is the biggest sporting event on the planet. And for many countries in Europe, football is either the biggest or second biggest sport in the country. For the next 5 weeks, businesses may close, bars and pubs will be full, jerseys will be worn, and fans will celebrate with passion or express their disappointment in defeat. The World Cup matters and any visit to these countries will be a visit like no other.

While many people travel to see Europe’s museums, beaches, mountains, historical sights, and landmarks, the true beauty of this continent is found in its people. Go beyond the places and meet the faces that make up the rich culture and heritage of any European country. This will be on full display during the World Cup.

Do Germans drink beers and celebrate with restrained enthusiasm? Do Italians scream and yell wildly, throw huge parties, and close down the streets in celebration? What about in Portugal, France, Spain, or Serbia?  Observing how people engage in this event and how they react in victory and defeat can give you a lot of insight into each country’s culture.

Talk to people on the streets. Ask the security guard at a museum what he plans to do for the World Cup. Strike up a conversation in a pub or bar. It’s an easy conversation starter so you can get to know people. In both small towns and big cities, even in countries that didn’t qualify for the World Cup, people will be watching.

One of the biggest, most anticipated match ups in the opening round is England versus the United States.  Both sides of the Atlantic are excited about this one (while England may be a bit more interested and even a little more nervous).  In war and in peace, the English and Americans have long been allies and rivalries between the two are friendly.  However, this may be the biggest match up between these two countries since 1950.

The World Cup – what does it mean to you?  Will you be watching?  As an American, football (i.e. soccer to us) is not a big sport here.  Many people here hate the sport and even many sports fans will be nothing more than casual observers as they root for the USA.  However, if (and probably, when) the USA bows out, many TVs will be turned off.

As an American who is passionate about football, it is my hope that this catches the attention of many here in the US.  For Europeans, this event is as big as it gets.  And for anyone traveling around Europe the next five weeks, it will be a wonderful opportunity to engage the wonderful cultures of Europe during the biggest sporting event in so a the world.

Santorini is an island of white stuccoed buildings that contrasts beautifully with the deep sapphire sea.  Santorini, the sensuous island calls to the adventurer and dreamer alike.

Photo and story by Caitlin Dwyer for www.europeupclose.com

I can never resist visiting a museum which sounds interesting and when I heard about the Folklore Museum on the Greek island of Samos I simply had to go and take a look.

Samos is a European destination with many attractions and, as I was there only on a day trip from the Turkish port of Kusadasi, I had to make a choice. The comparative shortage of time (5 hours) between arrival and departure of the ferry, necessitated the use of a taxi rather than the local bus to get to the town of Pythagorion on the opposite coast.

Although the museum is of great importance to the traditions and history of the island, it is little known, even by the locals.

The happy go lucky taxi driver understood ‘museum’ and ‘Pythagorion’ just fine and took off in the right direction.

However, he dropped us in front of the archaeology museum which is brand new and not even open to the public.

Luckily the curator who just happened to leave the building, knew what we wanted to see and explained that the Folklore Museum is actually located within the complex of a luxury hotel, The Doryssa Bay seaside resort and spa. Who would have thought about that?

Equally luckily the resort was only a 10 minute walk away and we finally arrived at our destination.

The Doryssa Bay resort looks very impressive and quite nice. We made our way to reception and  asked about the museum, still not 100% sure if we had come to the right place. It’s really neither advertised nor indicated anywhere, so it’s quite an insider tip.

A lady who introduced  herself as  a historian came forward, lead us through a few archways and – lo and behold – we were greeted by a very pretty sight.

Traditional Samos houses within the Doryssa Bay resort complex

Little white and blue painted houses surrounded a courtyard and she explained that these were reproductions of old Samos houses. Then she continued on to another building and we entered the museum proper. It was certainly worth all the roundabout ways to get to this place.

There are about five rooms and each one holds exhibits of a particular part of life on the island of Samos before WWII. And that’s really what the museum is all about. To maintain and recreate arts, crafts and customs of the times.

Not a single piece is allowed into the museum which has not been used or produced in Samos.

A room is recreated which shows what living and sleeping accommodations looked like, with storage space for food on the upper gallery.

Kitchen and oil lamps in the museum

Old traditional clothes are exhibited on mannequins and tools for fishing, harvesting and cooking are arranged in another room.

Clothes and bedspread adorned with hand made lace

I admired the finest hand made lace which is typical of traditional dresses.

She continued to explain that the museum also runs workshops where people can learn how bread is baked in the traditional way or how tiles are painted and glazed.

The museum was founded and is funded by the Nicolaos Dimitrion Foundation and you are not asked to pay an admission fee, but a donation of your choice is appreciated.

We finished out tour by looking at the quaint houses again and then returned to modern times by sitting on the terrace of the hotel and enjoying a complimentary coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.

A well deserved rest after all that museum-hunting!

If you visit, be aware that the museum closes at 1.30 pm, a ‘deadline’ we nearly missed because we had such problems finding it.