Mini Travel Guides

If you’ve been to Paris, you’ve seen the work of Baron Haussmann. You may not have even known you were looking at it.  It’s hard to miss, because it permeates the entire city, well, it is the city.  Most city tours of Paris will at least mention Haussmann. To tell you the truth, for a long time my knowledge of “Haussmann’s Paris” was limited to what I had learned on various bus and walking tours of the city. However, in preparation for a course I’m teaching on Parisian history and culture next fall, I’ve researched Haussmann quite a bit. I hope this “short history of Haussmann” will help you to see Paris in a new way on your next trip.

Baron Georges Eugene Haussmann (1809-1892) was appointed by Napoleon III approximately 60 years after the French Revolution to “modernize” the city of Paris. Some of the goals were to encourage economic growth by improving transportation (and the layout of roads) and render the city “revolution-proof” by making it more difficult to build barricades. Haussmann’s answer was to demolish most of the narrow winding streets that had been constructed in the 18th century and replace them with wide, tree-lined boulevards and large green spaces and gardens (sound familiar?).This massive project encompassed all aspects of urban planning. Not just street patterns, but city facilities, public monuments, building facades, the sewer system, every aspect of the city was affected.

Though Haussmann’s approach to urban planning was vehemently criticized by his contemporaries, he is responsible for the “look” of Paris (long straight, wide boulevards with cafés and shops, open spaces for markets, parks/gardens, etc.) that many tourists have come to adore. Haussmann’s arrangement of boulevards is what many people think of when they think of Paris — rationally-conceived, spoke-like boulevards that extend out from central points in the city.

Haussmann also introduced a new style of building. From the beginning of his city redesign, Haussmann established construction specifications for the appearance of the buildings (including their height and the number of floors). You can recognize Haussmann buildings by their stone facades, the balconies on the second and fifth floors and their grey roofs. Haussmann’s vision was a uniform cityscape with basic architectural elements that would make up “la nouvelle Paris.”

Haussmann-style buildings typically have five to seven floors and were designed to house several families (in different sized spaces) under the same roof, thus making most neighborhoods in Paris accessible to a wider variety of social classes. The ground floor typically housed a business of some sort, so the first floor was the home of those who ran the business. The second floor was reserved for the wealthiest families who could afford to live high enough from the road to avoid noise, but wouldn’t have to climb too many flights of stairs. The top floor was generally reserved for servant staff and was comprised of a number of small independent rooms with common facilities.

Whether you love or loathe his work, one thing is for sure– Paris would not be the same city it is today if it hadn’t been for Haussmann.

Written By Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

Paris is known for her beautiful, serene cemeteries. They usually double up as open museums, where some of the world’s most famous are resting. Following this, my Europe travel tip of the week is the very popular Père-Lachaise Cemetery; there is a lot of history to be found here, as well as tourists.

Located on a gentle hill, the walk around this Paris attractions can be fairly exhausting. But the thick, leafy trees and winding cobblestone lanes make it a beautiful one.

The cemetery is named after Père de la Chaise, confessor to King Louis XIV. The present day cemetery used to house a Jesuit order, and this is where the priest lived.

The cemetery was opened in 1804, but because of its location (a fair distance from the heart of Paris) it wasn’t used much. It took much campaigning by Napoleon, who was worried about the unsanitary condition caused by Paris’s over crowded cemeteries, to encourage its use. This included relocating a number of graves of famous Parisians from other cemeteries to this one.

Some tombstones are elaborate and works of art. Others have a simple sophistication to them. Some though have been forgotten and are in conditions of disrepair, and yet that doesn’t translate into an eyesore. They still retain their elegance.

With thousands of graves and tombstones here, things can get jumbled. The chaos of multiple gravestones though is offset by neat street names and direction boards.

Père-Lachaise is the resting place for a number of celebrities. The most popular resident (or at least the most visited by tourists) is Jim Morrison. Other big names include Chopin, Proust, Colette, and Oscar Wilde.

While entry to the cemetery is free, I’d recommend arming yourself with a cemetery map. It is easy to get lost inside and a map makes it a little easier to find the tombstones you want to see without spending hours and hours wandering around, unless that’s the whole idea of the visit of course.

Have you visited this cemetery or any other Paris cemeteries? What was your experience there?

We all know about Paris’ typical tourist haunts, but what aspects of the City of Lights appeal to locals? A few days ago, I was fortunate to interview Frédéric, a Parisian “insider.” We talked quite a bit about what this singular city has to offer, as well as his advice for tourists.

Thank you for agreeing to share your thoughts about Paris. What brought you to the city?
I arrived a year ago for work and because I have many friends who live in Paris.  I’m 29 and I work at the Department of Ecology.

What are your favorite restaurants/bars in the city?

- American Breakfast : A Pulp Fiction-style diner with good food.
Metro: Cardinal Lemoine

- Schwartz’s Deli : A typical diner in the historic Marais neighborhood.
Metro: St. Paul

- Aki : A great Japanese restaurant, try the okonomiyaki and noodles…yum.
Metro : Opéra

- The Bellevilloise: This is a nice bar, especially in the summer when you can enjoy the terrace, impressive architecture and     
eclectic live music programming.
Metro: Gambetta

- The Clockwork Orange: Nice owner, great happy hours and cheap cocktails.
Metro: Oberkampf

- Le Motel: Small bar hidden near the Bastille, very good cocktails, good techno music.

Metro: Bastille, Ledru Rollin
8 passage Josset
75011 Paris, France?

- The Rocket: Delicious, unique cocktails, nice ambiance
Metro: Beaubourg

- Le Rendez-vous des amis: Small bar with inexpensive, good wines (especially the reds).
Metro: Abbesses, Pigalle
23 rue Gabrielle

- Le Truskel: A bar where British rock stars go after their concerts, great rock music and beer.
Metro: Grands Boulevards, Bourse
12 Rue Feydeau
75002 Paris, France

What are your favorite arrondissements or neighborhoods?
Opéra for restaurants, bookstores and Japanese stores. Bastille and Oberkampf districts in general, Beaubourg for its cool bars and restaurants.

In your opinion, what are some of the most unique/interesting aspects of Paris?
The architecture, museums, restaurants, going out … there’s always something to do in Paris. Each arrondissement (district) is a mini-city to explore with its own characteristics.  

What is your favorite season in Paris?
Summer, because there are fewer Parisians around the city.

{Laughing} So, what is a place, activity, etc. that is a “must see/must do” in the summer that most tourists might miss?
In the summer, a walk / nap in the park of Buttes Chaumont , an artificial park that offers a beautiful view of the city.  Don’t forget to have a glass of wine at the bar Le Rosa Bonheur (in the park) that stays open until one o’clock in the morning, an ideal place to dance to 70’s and 80’s music while drinking wine.
Metro: Buttes-Chaumont

The area of Buttes aux Cailles is a very nice area for going out and dining. You’ll find a lot of lesser-known, small typical French bars and restaurants.
Metro: Tolbiac or Place d’Italie

Is there any general advice you have for visitors to Paris?
Paris is not a very spread out city, so if the weather permits, I recommend using the Vélib (bike rental) at automatic kiosks throughout the city at a very reasonable price. It takes about an hour to bike from north to south or east to west. Getting around by métro is faster but the sightseeing is not as good when using this mode. Finally, the bus can also be used even though the network is not very clear. Taxis are a more reliable way to return to where you are staying after 2:00 am on the weekend (because the métro shuts down).

Overall, avoid touristy bars and restaurants along the main avenues, where beers can cost up to 15 euros a liter. Go down the narrow side streets to find restaurants and bars that are authentic with more reasonable prices.

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

Paris is one of the best places to visit in Europe, more so when looked at from a great height. Most people climb the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and the Notre Dame Tower for the best Paris, but if what you want is a 360 degree view of the city, head to the Tower Montparnasse (Tour Montparnasse); my Europe travel tip for the week.

Situated in the bohemian chic Montparnasse area of Paris, this tower is a non-descript glass and steel skyscraper. It looks and feels out of place between the beautiful Parisian architecture; a major eye sore, much like another famous local landmark. But what it lacks in appearance, it makes up by offering spectacular Paris views.

The tower, the tallest in the city, takes you up almost 200 meters in a quick 38seconds – they’ve even installed a timer in the elevator that counts down the seconds to almost a dot. The tower operates everyday through the summer from 9:30 am to 11:30 pm.

My suggestion is to visit the tower post 10:00-10:30pm when the city gets dark.  From this vantage point, you can most of Paris’ landmarks – from the illuminated Eiffel Tower and the Arc to the Louvre and the Paris gardens, and beyond.

Have you visited the Tour Montparnasse? What did you think of the view and the photo op it offers?

Paris has to be one of the best places to visit in Europe.  The Eiffel Tower evokes romance and awe with the unique beauty of this tower from the Universal Exhibition.  The Louvre inspires  with all of its paintings and beautiful classical pieces.  Notre Dame exudes Parisian architecture at its finest and is revered by the French and foreigners alike.  While Versailles can overwhelm with its size, meticulous detail, and beautiful gardens, many places in Paris tell a story of French and Parisian history.

With all the Paris attractions on offer, one of my favourite Paris museums is the Rodin Museum which displays the sculptures and art of Auguste Rodin.  Opened in 1919, the Rodin Museum features a number of Rodin’s greatest works.  Known as a sculptor, Rodin discovered a love for sculpture at an early age and spent most of his life perfecting this art for which he has become so well known.

The Rodin Museum features a beautiful garden filled with his sculptures as well as a building which houses more sculptures, sketches, paintings, Rodin’s collections (Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet), and other memorabilia on the life of Rodin.  The building which houses the collections was once a residence of Rodin, the Hôtel Biron.  While the museum contains some sculptures, information on Rodin’s life, and paintings from his collections, many people focus on the garden and the statues on display.

His most famous statue, The Thinker, is displayed in the garden.  There are actually two sculptures of The Thinker – one in the gardens of the museum and one on his tomb.  However, many come to Paris to see his most famous piece of art.  While The Thinker is his most famous piece, other well known sculptures by Rodin include The Kiss and The Gates of Hell.

The Rodin Museum is a peaceful, inspirational journey through the life and art of Rodin.  The building and the garden are worth the visit.  For those that don’t like painting and traditional art, Rodin’s sculptures are pieces to amaze and inspire while enjoying a beautiful stroll through this fabulous museum, garden, and lake.  Even if you are not a fan of art, checking out Rodin’s works throughout the garden will inspire and awe those who don’t love art at all.

Getting to the museum is easy as it is a short walk from the Varenne Metro stop in Paris.  Even if art isn’t your thing, enjoy the outdoors with Rodin’s sculptures and admire art which seems to come to life.  Maybe seeing The Thinker will inspire creativity in us all.  Rodin made “thinking” a beautiful work of art.

If you’re Europe travel planning and would like to include a lot of art appreciation in your Paris sightseeing, Thomas has some suggestions in Paris 2010 for Art Lovers.  If you only have time for one museum or aren’t that into art, Amanda recommends the Musee d’Orsay.

Most of you who have traveled to Paris have most likely landed at the Charles de Gaulle or Orly airports. Another airport seving Paris is Beauvais- Tillé which is located approximately 55 miles north of Paris in the town of Tillé. The Beauvais airport welcomes flights from many low cost/budget European airlines including: Ryanair, Wizzair, Sterling, BlueAir and Norwegian Air Shuttle. Unlike larger airports, Beauvais is only open from 6:30am to 11:30pm and there is no luggage storage. From Beauvais, it is possible to catch a flight to a variety of other European capitals including: Barcelona, Budapest, Dublin, Rome and Stockholm. There are several options for making the easy trip (approximately an hour and a half) from Beauvais to Paris proper.

Getting from Beauvais to Paris

Shuttle Bus
There is direct bus service from Beauvais to Paris’ Porte Maillot (located on the Metro line 1 and RER line C), which takes about an hour and twenty minutes. When returning to the airport, buses depart from Paris at the coach park on Boulevard Pershing, across from the Palais de Congrès. Buses leave from Paris 3 hours before each departing flight and from Beauvais Airport 20 minutes after each arrival. The cost for a one-way ticket is 14 euros. Tickets can be purchased at the coach station in Paris or at Beauvais Airport.

Train
You can catch hourly trains on the Paris-Creil-Beauvais (regional network) line that depart from the Beauvais train station (accessible via shuttle or taxi from the airport). Trains arrive at the Gare du Nord station in Paris (some transfer at the Creil train station). The cost is between 12 and 14 euros. The travel time without a transfer is typically an hour and a half.

Taxi
It is possible, yet pricey, to take a taxi from Beauvais to Paris. The hour and a half ride costs  about 120€ (minimum) and takes about an hour and a half. Taxis can be found right outside the arrivals terminal.

Car Rental
Most of the main car rental companies (Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National/Citer, etc.) have branches at Beauvais. The car rental stations are located near the exit of the arrival terminal (the shuttle stop is also in this area) and cars can also be returned to this area or near Paris’ Porte Maillot (cars can also be rented here if you prefer to take the shuttle into the city).  
Driving from Beauvais to Paris is relatively simple. Follow the A16 south and it will lead you directly into the city. Ask your hotel’s concierge or host for more specific driving directions for when you arrive in the City of Lights. Via Michelin is also a good resource for charting your course.

Paris – one of the best places to visit in Europe – is certainly a fantastic city for art lovers, but for a traveller with just an average level of interest in art, it can be a bit overwhelming, and most people probably end up just heading to the super-famous Louvre. Of course, the Louvre is a pretty impressive affair, but if you only have time for one gallery visit while you’re in Paris, my Europe travel tip for this week is to skip the queues for the Mona Lisa and instead head down to the Musee d’Orsay.

For a start, the Musee d’Orsay is housed in an interesting building – it is a former railway station of impressive proportions, and adds an extra level of interest to your gallery experience. And like the Louvre, it also houses a diverse array of accessible artwork – enough Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh to suit the average art-lover as well as collections of sculptures, photography and so on. Of course it’s a popular Paris attraction, but I found it wasn’t quite as crowded as the Louvre, and the building itself – as you can see in the picture – is very open and airy. All in all, I had a much more pleasant afternoon at the d’Orsay, so it comes as a highly recommended.

When planning your visit, be aware that the Musee d’Orsay is closed on Mondays, like many museums and galleries. At the moment there are some renovations in progress, due to be finished in March 2011. Current admission price is €8 and you can buy your tickets online in advance if you want.

There are few things in life more enjoyable than having a drink and delicious eats on a patio when the weather is divine. Spring is here and summer is right around the corner, so it’s time to don your lunettes de soleil (sunglasses) and grab a table at one of Paris’ best terrasses.

Here are some ideas to get you started.

There are few views of the city more captivating than the one from Le Georges, the restaurant on the 6th floor of the Centre Georges Pompidou. I love the clean contemporary style of both the interior of the restaurant and its large terrasse. I recommend grabbing a kir (dry white wine with a dash of blackberry liquor), some escargot, and watching the sunset. Best to make a reservation by calling in advance.
Le Georges
Tel:+33 (0)1 44 78 47 99
Metro: Rambuteau, Hôtel de Ville or Châtelet

If you find yourself in Montmartre, head to L’été en pente douce, located at the top of rue Muller. I was immediately won over by the lively ambiance on la terrasse and the many locals who, according to my friend, frequented this spot. There was a glass full of Japanese rice snacks in different flavors on our table that we promptly demolished. Our server was happy to bring us refills, gratuit (free). We shared a bottle of La Treille Muscate at a very reasonable 15€ and their copious cheese platter, a steal at 5.90€.
L’été en pente douce
23, rue Muller
Metro: Abbesses or Anvers

K’fé court is a relatively new restaurant with five locations throughout Paris. I visited the 119 boulevard Pereire location and was impressed by the modern, relaxed feel of both the interior and their lovely terrasse. I was lucky to arrive during their extended happy hour (5-9 on weeknights) and enjoyed light dishes and selections from their extensive cocktail and wine list.

K’fé court
119 boulevard Pereire
Tel. +33 (0)1 48 88 01 20
Metro : Pereire

For a gourmet terrasse experience try Le Café Very, located in the middle of the Jardin des Tuileries. Chef Gilles Choukroun has created a menu of delectable small plates featuring a variety of fine cheeses and meats with a Mediterranean twist. These little gems along with a well-curated wine list and the verdant splendor of the Tuileries makes for a “very” satisfying outdoor dining experience.
Le Café Very
Metro: Tuileries or Concorde

One of Paris’ most stylish restaurants, Le Café de l’Homme, also happens to have one of the classiest terrasses. Seeing as its located directly across from the Eiffel Tower, one can hardly quibble about the view (you can also see la Seine and the sweeping Champs de Mars). The food is primarily trendy but with a traditional flavor (think roasted lamb with artichoke purée) and the wine list is superb.
Le Café de l’Homme
17 Place du Trocadéro
Metro: Trocadéro

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

35 rue du Faubourg Monmartre. A street that’s a little off centre, more than a little off the beaten track, and stumbled upon only by accident. And home to A le mere de Famille, Paris’ oldest and most famous confectioners, my Europe travel tip for this week.

The shop is gorgeous. Filled to the bursting with sweet treats like the candied fruits above. They have a huge amount of (very creamy) chocolate, but the rest of their wares are just as tasty.

The packing might be simple, but it’s elegant and perfect. Detail is important in this shop. And so is interior design for that matter.

Such pretty fixtures. Think classic French and old curiousity shop elegance (as only the French could do so well).

It’s like Willy Wonka chocolate factory! Only real, and a bit more expensive.

Isn’t it pretty? Everything just so. Unfortunately there are no samples – probably to stop pesky people like me buzzing around the counter like an annoying tourist.

Not a huge sweetie fan? There’s lots of jams and jellies to choose from as well.

A bar of chocolate will set you back around €4, and there are some great bargains if you’re willing to look around. The shop is geared up for tourists (although I’m sure that wasn’t the case back in 1761) but everything you buy here will be tasty. A la mere de Famille is an institution and just strolling through back streets from the Pompidou will lead you here. It’s a beautiful shop and you should definitely pop your head through the door. Bet you don’t come out empty handed. There’s also the temptation of delicious Parisian pastries as described by Andy, can it really be true that French women don’t get fat with all these goodies on offer?

Paris is a city of neighborhoods or arrondissements. One of the most dynamic neighborhoods in Paris is the Marais, where you will find  the Musee Carnavalet.  Read more about the Marais here.

Photo by Bill Fogarty  for EuropeUpClose.com