Mini Travel Guides

Many people may wonder if my geography is correct when I speak of Europe and the World Cup. A couple of weeks ago I wrote about “Getting ready for the World Cup through European travel” and with the World Cup kicking off  this Friday June 11 in South Africa, one of its biggest, most passionate audiences will be in Europe. France, Italy, Germany, Portugal, Spain, Serbia, England, Slovenia, Denmark, Netherlands, Slovakia, Switzerland, and Greece all take their shot at winning the World Cup.

The World Cup in South Africa - Europe's biggest destination? (Photo by Clare Appleyard)

For the casual fan or for someone who is not interested in football at all, one may wonder how this relates to seeing more of Europe. The answer to that question?  The people of Europe.  Anyone who travels to these European countries will see a side of Europe that only appears once every four years. Of all the football fans in the world, only South Americans can compete with Europeans in their passion for football.

The World Cup is the biggest sporting event on the planet. And for many countries in Europe, football is either the biggest or second biggest sport in the country. For the next 5 weeks, businesses may close, bars and pubs will be full, jerseys will be worn, and fans will celebrate with passion or express their disappointment in defeat. The World Cup matters and any visit to these countries will be a visit like no other.

While many people travel to see Europe’s museums, beaches, mountains, historical sights, and landmarks, the true beauty of this continent is found in its people. Go beyond the places and meet the faces that make up the rich culture and heritage of any European country. This will be on full display during the World Cup.

Do Germans drink beers and celebrate with restrained enthusiasm? Do Italians scream and yell wildly, throw huge parties, and close down the streets in celebration? What about in Portugal, France, Spain, or Serbia?  Observing how people engage in this event and how they react in victory and defeat can give you a lot of insight into each country’s culture.

Talk to people on the streets. Ask the security guard at a museum what he plans to do for the World Cup. Strike up a conversation in a pub or bar. It’s an easy conversation starter so you can get to know people. In both small towns and big cities, even in countries that didn’t qualify for the World Cup, people will be watching.

One of the biggest, most anticipated match ups in the opening round is England versus the United States.  Both sides of the Atlantic are excited about this one (while England may be a bit more interested and even a little more nervous).  In war and in peace, the English and Americans have long been allies and rivalries between the two are friendly.  However, this may be the biggest match up between these two countries since 1950.

The World Cup – what does it mean to you?  Will you be watching?  As an American, football (i.e. soccer to us) is not a big sport here.  Many people here hate the sport and even many sports fans will be nothing more than casual observers as they root for the USA.  However, if (and probably, when) the USA bows out, many TVs will be turned off.

As an American who is passionate about football, it is my hope that this catches the attention of many here in the US.  For Europeans, this event is as big as it gets.  And for anyone traveling around Europe the next five weeks, it will be a wonderful opportunity to engage the wonderful cultures of Europe during the biggest sporting event in so a the world.

Alien artwork and medieval Swiss cities don’t usually go hand in hand.  But in Gruyères, a city better known for cheese than aliens, science fiction fans the world over can marvel at the artwork of H.R. Giger, the man who received an Oscar for his work on Alien.

Before arriving in Gruyères, I had never heard of H.R. Giger.  I am not a science fiction fan, I haven’t even seen Alien.  It didn’t matter; the HR Giger Museum housed an impressive display of artwork, regardless of my propensity to science fiction.  The work ranged from drawings, oil work, sculptures, movie props, and everything in between.

Part of the appeal was not so much the artwork, which at times was just too disturbing, but the setting.  Outside, a cheese festival was going on in the medieval European city.  A 13^th century castle loomed on top of the hill.  The surrounding mountains were shrouded with fog.  It was stereotypically Swiss.  Inside, the museum was dark.  Mechanical.  Alien.  It was stereotypically not Swiss.  And I loved it all.

There’s even a bar and café across the street from the museum that is designed and decorated in biomechanical style used by Giger in his artwork.

A Europe travel tip, after having written about kid friendly things to do in Switzerland such as the Natural History Museum in Geneva, it is important to realize that the H.R. Giger Museum cannot be described as kid friendly.  The artwork is dark, foreboding, and often times sexual.

Geneva is stereotypically known to be filled with diplomats and bankers.  Not something the average kid wants to see when travelling through a European city.  Luckily the Natural History Museum of the City of Geneva is a great place for kids, and, because admission is completely free, a great way to save a bit of money in notoriously expensive Geneva.

There’s nothing like walking into a museum and being met by a dinosaur. And a two-headed tortoise named Janus.  A fitting moniker, considering Janus’ namesake was the Roman god of gates, often depicted with two heads.  Janus has become a bit of a cult favorite at the museum; there is even a two-headed tortoise donation bin just in front of the large dinosaur.  Proving once and for all, that dinosaurs might be impressive, but it’s the tortoise that keeps plodding along, even today.

Janus, lives a sparse existence in a terrarium in the foyer of the museum.  That sparse existence though, according to the museum, is for Janus’ safety.  Instead, Janus spends the days idly in his terrarium, eating lettuce. Despite his lack of movement, Janus draws a crowd, and I found myself waiting patiently as children much younger than me admired the two-headed tortoise.

The Natural History Museum in Geneva is great to remember when doing your European travel planning.  Especially if you have kids. Or if you are 26 and still act like one when confronted with a two-headed tortoise. I’d also recommend a walk through Bastions Park.  There are many other free things to do in Geneva highlighted by guest author Margaret Docherty.

If you’re planning a Geneva city break, find the lowest prices at hotels in Geneva with the HotelsCombined metasearch.

As I wandered throughout Bastions Park in the European city of Geneva, Switzerland, I was struck by the dichotomy of the park itself.  So many of the churches of Geneva represent the austerity of the Calvinist movement and fittingly, here at the edge of Geneva’s Old Town, a wall commemorating four of the Protestant founders of the reformation stretches hundreds of feet.  The Reformation Wall is hard to miss and is a prominent sight while at Bastions Park.  The desert colors of the wall seem to reflect the religious leanings of the men depicted on it.

But the park itself is vivid.  With color. With people.  With activity.

Bastions Park was founded as one of the first botanical gardens in Geneva.  While it is no longer a botanical garden, it is filled with beautiful Swiss flora.

Entering through the park gates, I was met by oversized chess and checkers boards filled with people, young and old, contemplating their positions before bounding over to make their move.

To the left were several ping pong tables being use with varying degrees of success.  Some saw sustained rallies, while others saw games of fetch.

To the right was a May Day celebration with food, music, and the requisite protesters and petitions to be signed.

There was even a live band playing at the far end of the Reformation Wall.

The quite reflectiveness of the wall, mixed with the liveliness of Bastions Park was fascinating and a great way to spend some time exploring Geneva.  We have some Europe travel tips for free things to do in  Geneva on the Europe a la Carte Blog.

Montreux is another one of those lovely hamlets you’ll find along the coast of Lake Geneva.  It makes the perfect daytrip from Geneva, if you’ve used up all your free Geneva attractions.  It’s also near Lausanne, another great Lake Geneva stop.

Montreux is mostly known for their Jazz Festival but there are lots of other things to do.

You can see why they call it the Swiss Rivieria

Chateau de Chillon.  This has to be one of my favourite castles in all of Europe; it’s just outside Montreux, and if the weather is suitable you can walk there (45 min).  It’s built on a tiny island just off the main road, so you can’t miss it, but the reason is this used to be a toll station.  It offers some amazing views over Lake Geneva, and the interior condition is in very good order.  This castle inspired the Lord Byron poem, the Prisoner of Chillon.

Hauts de Montreux.  Some day this is one of the best hiking spots in all of Switzerland.  Even if you’re not a big hiker, you can just enjoy the train ride (Montreux-Oberland-Bernois) back and forth.  Be sure to book in advance for the best prices.

Terrace Life. Montreux is filled with fabulous hotels with jazz bars, live pianists, brass and gold and glitter.  Sound expensive?  Yes – it is.  But it’s worth it for the experience – at least have a drink and enjoy the atmosphere.  Many of the hotel/restaurant establishments near the train station are a little less expensive.  Otherwise, if you’re just on a tight tight budget, go for a stroll along the lake.  Especially at dusk, it is a charming experience.

The trains to/from Montreux are awfully expensive.  Be sure to book ahead for savings.

Photo by abhijeet.rane

In this guest post, Margaret Doherty gets a taste of the high life in the Swiss Bernese Oberland.

“The spectacular mountains, valleys and lakes of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland have been on the tourist trail since the Grand Tourists first discovered the region in the eighteenth century.

Lauterbrunnen Valley, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

Imagine a classic Swiss landscape. Waterfalls cascade from a high pine-topped valley. Cow bells tinkle as their well-fed owners leisurely munch the lush meadow grass. Snow-capped mountain peaks glisten in the sunshine. Small herds of goats dot the steep hills above wooden chalets with colourful flower-filled window boxes and orderly lines of tasty fruit and vegetables in their gardens. Guess what? You’ve just conjured up summer in Lauterbrunnen in the heart of Switzerland’s Alpine region.

I’m staying in a mobile home in a Eurocamp Camping Jungfrau site that nestles discretely in the village at the bottom of the valley between the Weisse Lutschne river and the Staubbach waterfall that has counted Byron and Goethe among its admirers. With its train station, bus and cable-car connections, Lauterbrunnen is an ideal spot from which to explore the region declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Staubbach Waterfall, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

There are many levels of walks and hikes in the area, from gentle child-friendly descents to something rather more strenuous, which is no surprise with the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau among its famous peaks. The network of trains, cable-cars, buses and private mountain railways that provides access to the various valleys and mountain villages can seem confusing at first but you’ll soon get the hang of it. Small rack-railways that have been pulling visitors up incredible gradients for over 100 years take you up the mountains while cable cars glide smoothly up steep hillsides and small four-person gondolas make steady progress through distant valleys. Easy excursions from Lauterbrunnen include the mostly flat walk through the stunning Lauterbrunnen valley from the village to the Trummelbach Waterfalls past wild-flower meadows and smallholdings.

The picturesque car-free town of Murren, a cable-car and tram ride from Lauterbrunnen, is where Sir Arnold Lunn set the first slalom in 1922 and organised the first world championship in downhill and slalom racing in 1931. It’s also one of the places from where you can reach the Schilthorn and its revolving Piz Gloria restaurant, famous for its turn in “Her Majesty’ Secret Service” or take a cable car up to the child-friendly meadows of Allmendhubel.

The snow-capped peaks that surround Murren, Bernese Oberland

Wengen is another car-free village easily accessible from Lauterbrunnen by train – you can even walk to it but it is quite steep so I opted for a leisurely walk down, enlivened by the speedy mountain bikers I met hurtling past at a much faster, and scarier, rate than me. There are many walking routes around Wengen depending on how long, how far or how challenging you want them to be. For one of the best, take the cable car up to the Mannlichen plateau which overlooks the valley towards Grindelwald and Grund in the distance surrounded by magnificent mountain peaks in all directions. It’s worth it for the nose-bleed inducing view alone, but the paths that spin off in many directions will probably prove too tempting and you’ll be drawn further along the mountain ridge and down into the valley.

The latest innovation to help visitors enjoy and understand the area is the iphone Klimaguide which can be rented for 20 Swiss francs a day plus deposit. Seven of the region’s walks are featured with selected stopping points where you can learn about effects of climate change on the area and also identify the plants and flowers you might see on your journey.

One of the big tourist attractions – and therefore one of the busiest – is the trip to the Jungfraujoch, ‘Top of Europe’, with the highest train station in Europe. To reach the top the train actually goes through the Eiger. It makes two five-minute stops inside the mountain, at Eigerwand and Eismeer, where you get a real sense of the immensity of the ice-covered mountain on the way to the top. On my visit, the views that on a clear day can extend to the Vosges in France and Germany’s Black Forest were obscured by cloud and sleet. But it proved yet another fine example of the achievements of Swiss engineering in making such a majestic landscape accessible.

Eiger views, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

To see the mountains from a different angle and to rest any weary legs, a boat trip on Lake Thun (round trip around 5 hours) or Lake Brienz (round trip around 3 hours) offers a leisurely jaunt, giving you the chance to stop off at a number of villages on the lakes if you wish. Oberhofen on Lake Thun with its twelfth century castle and six acre garden laid out in 1840 is worth a visit and is typical of many of the villages such as Spiez and Thun with their cobbled streets, medieval churches and castles on wonderful lakeside settings. Interlaken, the town between lakes Thun and Brienz, has two train stations: Interlaken West and Interlaken Ost (east). They are about 15-20 minutes walk apart at either end of town. Boat trips serve Lake Thun near Interlaken West and Lake Brienz from Interlaken Ost (see boat signs at the stations). Interlaken West is the station nearest to the centre of town. (Just check on return boat times or the possibility of a shorter train ride home if there’s a station at your chosen destination.)

Oberhofen Castle, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

Top tips

To find out what the region has to offer My Switzerland and My Jungfrau are good starting points. Broadly, the summer season runs from May to Sept/Oct so check that any destinations/activities will be fully operational if they are key to your visit.

When walking always wear suitable footwear and clothing, take plenty of water and snacks and keep to the marked paths. The local tourist office can provide plenty of information and advice.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast. You can find out what it’ll be like at the campsite notice boards or at the local tourist office. And remember, air temperature drops by around 0.6C with every 100m increase in altitude so bear that in mind when heading for the heights.

Save on buying bottled water. Most villages have numerous drinking-water fountains where you can replenish water bottles for free.

Lake Brienz, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

There are many other ways to explore the region in summer, from cycling, scooter-biking, taking an exhilarating trip on the First Flyer ( like the US Zip Flyers) or for the real adrenalin junkies, a tandem paraglide over the stunning scenery.

Camping Jungfrau has a shop on site for all your basics an Lauterbrunnen has a small Co-op supermarket. There’s a much larger Co-op opposite Interlaken Ost train station. Shops are largely closed on Sundays and often closed for lunch.

The Swiss Travel System offers a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad to help reduce costs and match your specific travel needs. For details go Swiss Travel System or call free (from the UK) on 00800 100 200 30.

Margaret Doherty has written two other guest posts about Switzerland for the Europe a la Carte Blog:

Welcome to Free Geneva

Best Basel Attractions