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Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

In London, we have the beloved Gordon’s Wine Bar. We adore Gordon’s, and rightly so. It’s a fabulous little spot, one of my favourites in London, despite it being a victim of its own success (and a well-timed Time Out article). But on a recent trip to Tallinn, I found myself in Gloria on Müürivahe. And it might just have pushed Gordon’s off the top of my ‘favourite wine bar’ list. Or, my favourite bars EVER list. It really is that special and it’s my top tip for visiting Estonia.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

Gloria itself is actually all manner of things. It’s a fancy restaurant, with a teeny little guesthouse of only six rooms. There’s also a cigar bar. That’s a strange thing about Tallinn (or Estonia in general? I’m not sure). You can’t smoke in bars, but they do have designated cigar bars for that purpose, which is interesting. But, we were here for the bar. Which means going through the shop in the cellar.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

And it’s a fabulous shop. If you didn’t know there was a wine bar behind it, you might never find it. And there’s something exciting about that, isn’t there? But we knew it was there, so we heading right for the little archway, not really sure what to expect.

What you get is rather special. Like finding a secret that no one knows about (we were the only ones in there, save for the waitress). There is not bar as such, well not that we found. Just a little maze of beautifully decorated rooms. Old photos, everywhere, lots of wood, lots of candle light. Tiny tables, little secret corners. Perfect for romancing. Or telling ghost stories.

Tallinn’s hidden gem   Gloria Wine Bar

The wine? Fantastic. Excellent glasses too, as you can see from that photo. The spirit glasses are beautiful. There are pricey options, but you can get a decent glass of red for under a fiver. You can get food here as well, but the menu is small. That said, they do use the same kitchen as the fancy restaurant, and it’s certainly much cheaper. The only downside is that the bar is closed on a Sunday (like a lot of bars in Tallinn), meaning I only got to come here once on my weekend away.

I’m already planning my next trip to Tallinn. Gloria wine bar has a lot to do with that. It’s nothing short of amazing. If you’re in this European city, go here.

If you’re planning a trip to Estonia, you can find the best deals at hotels in Tallin using the search box below.


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Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.


Wine tasting and mountain charm in Sirince, Turkey

One does not usually associate Turkey with the production of top rate wine and one does not expect wines to grow on steep mountain sides, but, as Turkey is always good for a pleasant surprise, you will find both on a day trip to Sirince.

The place is little more than a village, located high up in the mountains about 8km east of the town of Selcuk. Some tours are available in tourist locations such as Kusadasi, Bodrum or Didim, but not many. Just make your way to Selcuk, by car or bus and then take the dolmus to Sirince from the central bus station. In summer, the dolmus departs every hour on the hour and the ride uphill takes about 30 minutes, the return trip about 10!

Wine tasting and mountain charm in Sirince, Turkey

In the dolmus on my way to Sirince

As soon as the dolmus leaves Selcuk, the narrow road climbs steeper and steeper and you wonder where the wines are. And then, you see them, in terraces glued to the mountains or in the  sheltered valleys in between.

Despite it being July, everything was so green and the air was pleasantly cool after the scorching temperatures in Selcuk and Ephesus. The dolums stops at the tiny village square and from there you have to rely on your feet and good hiking shoes to manoeuvre the cobbled paths winding between the houses, quite a few of which have been converted into romantic inns. And it’s uphill all the way and down again on your way back, so remember to leave sandals and flip flops at home! I saw a few unprepared tourists having a hard time of it.

Wine tasting and mountain charm in Sirince, Turkey

Old house converted into an inn

As soon as you set foot into the village square you find shops and wineries everywhere, offering their products and inviting you to tastings. The wines made here have a long Greek/Turkish Ottoman tradition and are quite famous. A speciality are the many, many fruit wines, some as exotic as banana and pomegranate.

Wine bottles

Turkish wine bottles

But, it’s not all about wine. The village itself with its Greek and Turkish houses and the view of the surrounding mountains is lovely and very charming to look at. The small bazaar offers  many hand crafted products, among them hand carved wooden figures and spoons and quite elaborate covers for wine bottles as well as ceramics, hand embroidered linen, soaps and creams based on olive oil and many more nice trinkets which make good souvenirs or gifts.

Wine tasting and mountain charm in Sirince, Turkey

Wood carvings

None of the hustle and bustle of an Istanbul bazaar here, a much more sedate pace rules and the vendors hardly ever say more than a polite ‘merhaba’ or buyurun (please, come in).

Wine tasting and mountain charm in Sirince, Turkey

Sirince bazaar

There is no shortage of restaurants and cafes where you can rest your feet and fill your stomach. Most of them have wine-covered courtyards where you can enjoy your meal and I was delighted to find that many  offer my absolute favourite: ‘gözleme’ which are the paper thin pancakes filled with potatoes, minced meet, spinach and cheese or eaten plain with honey and nuts.

If you are anywhere in the vicinity during your Turkey holiday, my Europe travel tip is to take a day trip to Sirince perhaps combined with a visit to Selcuk.


Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

As I have said in previous posts, I love the Loire Valley – it really is one of the best places to visit in Europe. My previous trips there have been to explore the architectural heritage of the region, the many Loire Valley castles. But, as the area is so well known for many and various great wines, I decided my next trip would be to investigate the viticulture. And this I did last week; well I scratched the surface. I stayed at a charming holiday cottage and spent my days touring numerous vineyards.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

With the right people, the vineyards themselves can be very interesting; they are not just row upon row of grape-producing vines. Look closely at the photograph above and you will see dotted about the vineyards small and somewhat quaint buildings. These buildings can be seen everywhere, in various states of repair, or disrepair. A close up of one can be seen in the photograph below. These are maisons de vigne, that once provided shelter for meals and rest to the farmers who worked the vineyards. Now, with more modern farming techniques and less of a reliance on the horse, workers tend to go back to their houses for lunch and to escape the midday heat.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

And scattered amongst the more standard vineyards, using more usual techniques are the vineyards of those who experimented, those tried something different. One of those was the successful draper Antoine Cristal. This man, who knew some very influential people and was friends with the French President Georges Clémenceau, is credited with introducing Loire Valley red wines to wider market in the mid to late 1800s. The Loire Valley had until then been known only for its white wines. Cristal is also famous for his Le Clos des Murs, vineyard of walls, pictured below.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

The quality of wine is said to be dependant on the growing conditions of the vine itself. Cristal believed the best wine would be produced from vines whose roots were in shade but where the grapes were in direct sun. So he produced his ‘vineyard of walls’, where he placed the root in the shade of the wall, and the vine was then passed through a whole in the wall and allowed to grow in direct sunlight.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

Visiting this fascinating and quirky vineyard, and learning of its history, was a real treat and a surprise. When he died Cristal bequeathed his Clos des Murs to a local Hospital, and still today Cristal’s vineyards produce some very fines wines.


Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

As I have said in previous posts, I love the Loire Valley – it really is one of the best places to visit in Europe. My previous trips there have been to explore the architectural heritage of the region, the many castles. But, as the area is so well known for many and various great wines, I decided my next trip would be to investigate the viticulture. And this I did last week; well I scratched the surface. I stayed at a charming holiday cottage and spent my days touring numerous vineyards.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

With the right people, the vineyards themselves can be very interesting; they are not just row upon row of grape-producing vines. Look closely at the photograph above and you will see dotted about the vineyards small and somewhat quaint buildings. These buildings can be seen everywhere, in various states of repair, or disrepair. A close up of one can be seen in the photograph below. These are maisons de vigne, that once provided shelter for meals and rest to the farmers who worked the vineyards. Now, with more modern farming techniques and less of a reliance on the horse, workers tend to go back to their houses for lunch and to escape the midday heat.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

And scattered amongst the more standard vineyards, using more usual techniques are the vineyards of those who experimented, those tried something different. One of those was the successful draper Antoine Cristal. This man, who knew some very influential people and was friends with the French President Georges Clémenceau, is credited with introducing Loire Valley red wines to wider market in the mid to late 1800s. The Loire Valley had until then been known only for its white wines. Cristal is also famous for his Le Clos des Murs, vineyard of walls, pictured below.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

The quality of wine is said to be dependant on the growing conditions of the vine itself. Cristal believed the best wine would be produced from vines whose roots were in shade but where the grapes were in direct sun. So he produced his ‘vineyard of walls’, where he placed the root in the shade of the wall, and the vine was then passed through a whole in the wall and allowed to grow in direct sunlight.

Vineyards of the Loire Valley, France

Visiting this fascinating and quirky vineyard, and learning of its history, was a real treat and a surprise. When he died Cristal bequeathed his Clos des Murs to a local Hospital, and still today Cristal’s vineyards produce some very fines wines.


Leicester Square’s Secret Wine Bars

Leicester Squares Secret Wine Bars

I hate Leicester Square. There is nothing good about this area of Central London. Nothing. I find myself walking the long way ’round it to get to Soho because my hatred of it is so strong. If you want to find yourself surrounded by aimless tourists taking photos of cinemas (why?) and soulless expensive bars, then head here.

But there’s a little secret around Leicester Sqaure that no one tells you about. There are little secret wine bars. Some not even a hop skip and a jump away. Some just a hop. And they’re good. Lovely, in fact. And they’re ruining my ideals of Leicester Square being that gateway to hell. So, if you do end up here (and I don’t know how, but on any trip to London you always will), here are my Europe travel tips for the best bars in the area. The ones that will keep you smiling enough to forget you’re even here.

Cork and Bottle (Cranbourn Street) This is my saving grace in Leicester Square. It’s hidden away, it’s unique, it’s a world away from the movie premiers and screaming children. And it’s lovely. Friendly staff, fantastic wine (and cheap bubbly by the glass) and you’ll stay much longer than you planned.

Le Beaujolais (Litchfield Street): A little too expensive for regular trips (over £11 for two small glasses) but it’s very charming. Staff are friendly and there’s seats outside (albeit not with the greatest view, but you’ll forget you’re so close to Charing Cross road). It wouldn’t be my first choice, but if there was an empty seat on a sunny evening…

Gordon’s (Villiers Street): Every knows about Gordon’s now, don’t they (thanks Time Out, you’ve gone and ruined it), but it’s still my favourite wine bar in the whole of London. Get there early, grab a bottle and nab that table before anyone else can. Don’t you dare think about leaving, if you do I’ll steal your table.

Terroirs (William IV Street): The newest wine bar on the block and already getting quite a reputation. Great wine, good food and all for a decent price is making people flock here. It’s next on my list.

National Portrait Bar (St Martin’s Place): This place is a little gem. Not only do you get to pretend that you’re a little bit cultured, you get a rather lovely view of London from this top floor bar. Opening hours are a bit annoying (the bar is only open when the gallery is and you’ll get kicked out at 6, even on a Saturday) but it’s such a lovely bar. My favourite in the area, and one of my favourite in London.

Flickr image from Paulaloe’s photostream.


There is More to Bordeaux than Wine

I first visited France 21 years ago as a young archaeology student touring the many prehistoric caves in the south west. It really was a trip of a lifetime. But you know, as passionate as I was about my work in archaeology, after a few weeks of visiting numerous archaeological sites even I felt needed a break from prehistory before continuing with a few more weeks of more archaeology. There was only one place to go, the city of Bordeaux. Ever since my first visit, Bordeaux for me is associated with relaxing, people watching and taking in a city atmosphere.

I think Bordeaux is one of France’s most interesting and beautiful cities, and as such it is certainly one of the best places to visit in Europe. Bordeaux is not only the city to visit for wine aficionados on a city break, it is a must for shopaholics and lovers of great architecture.

There is More to Bordeaux than Wine

Perhaps the best area to head for is the Triangle d’Or, the ‘golden triangle’ – this is by far the prettiest and most historic part of the city. The ‘golden triangle’, which is formed by the roads cours de l’Intendance, cours Georges Clemenceau and allées de Tourny, has beautiful pedestrian streets and boulevards with amazing architecture, it is home to designer and couture boutiques, trendy restaurants and bistros, and such famous landmarks as the Grand Théâtre. Rue Ste-Catherine is said to be the longest pedestrian street in Europe – with over 100 boutiques that range from the most luxurious to the cheapest.

There is More to Bordeaux than Wine

As European destinations go, the City of Bordeaux has something for everyone, on all budgets

There is More to Bordeaux than Wine


Argentina: Sweeter in the South!

Argentina is world-renowned for its fine wine and meat, offered to visitors at bargain-basement prices unimaginable in the north of the Americas or in Europe. While the quality of traditional Argentine foodstuffs is high throughout the provinces of this vast country, there are other items which vary dramatically with geographical location. For example, European visitors [...]

Vienna Day Trips: Wine, Spring and Grinzing

I am not a wine drinker. I can’t tell the difference between grapes and I don’t know how to pair wine with whatever I may be eating. Which is why I was a bit skeptical when climbing aboard the 38 at Schottentor in the European city of Vienna. I was heading out to Grinzing, a northern area of Vienna known for its Heurigen. Wine taverns.

About twenty minutes later, having snaked through the city in a trolley, I climbed off in a picturesque part of Vienna. The area is one of those classic Europe destinations, small churches, small houses, small streets. And it’s beautiful. That it sits on a hillside speckled with vineyards only adds to the ambiance. It’s a perfect Vienna day trip.

Vienna Day Trips: Wine, Spring and Grinzing

I wandered around a bit, but quickly found myself drawn to a little Heuriger advertising the new wine that the area is known for with a small sign and the traditional pine bough signifying that the establishment was open. The Heurigen tend to only be open at certain times of the year and so it is important to look for that hanging pine bough.

Vienna Day Trips: Wine, Spring and Grinzing

I don’t know if it was a good year for wine, or if it was a good wine. It didn’t matter. Not with the tree-covered courtyard, good company, and the sun still shining. Wine enthusiasts may be drawn to the potential of the year’s harvest, travel enthusiasts are drawn to the atmosphere.

Vienna Day Trips: Wine, Spring and Grinzing

One warning, when the sun is shining, the place is packed with tourists. Apparently, so much so that the Viennese stay away. Therefore my Europe travel tip if you still want to experience Grinzing and avoid the crowds, pick one of the dirt roads leading up the hills and start walking. The Vienna views are stunning and a perfect way to end a visit to Grinzing.


Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

I am hardly the first to wax poetic about the beauty of Provence, but with a region as spectacular as this one, it certainly bears repeating. My husband, young children and I took a wonderful holiday in Provence’s Luberon Valley. We based ourselves in a little mas provençal (traditional regional homes of stone) just outside the charming hillside town of Gordes and used this as our base to explore the region. Gordes, like many of the picturesque hilltowns in the region, bears the classification as “un des plus beaux villages de France” (one of the most beautiful villages of France). You’ll be sure to agree before you even reach the town, because the approach to this idyllic village, perched high on a hilltop is so breathtaking. Our house had beautiful views up to the town. The location is perfect for a relaxing holiday and there are enough charming hilltowns and places of interest in the vicinity to ensure that you’ll never grow bored. Considering the almost guaranteed sunshine in southern France for much of the year and the wonderful food and wine, you certainly have the makings of a  perfect holiday.

Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

Close to Gordes is the “ochre” town of Roussillon . This former ochre mining town once provided 17 different hues of ochre and you will find them all of those shades displayed on the colourful homes in the old town. It makes a beautiful impression in the bright summer sunlight. Visit the old ochre quarries and enjoy a pleasant walk through the paths to admire the stunning ochre colours set off beautifully by the green trees.

Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

Oppède-le-Vieux has only a few cafés and restaurants in the restored homes at the bottom of the hill, but as you work your way up to the medieval town, it is mostly in ruins. You’ll love wandering around this spectacular remains of the town with lovely views over the valley below. The medieval castle ruins are perched on top. The drops can be quite steep, so be careful while admiring those stunning views. Take along good walking shoes and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of this special slice of  Provence.

Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

Just slightly further afield, although technically not part of the Luberon Valley, is the jagged landscape of the Dentelles interspersed with lush vineyards and charming wine-producing villages. Not to be missed is the wonderful town of Vaison-la-Romaine . This was originally a settlement of the Ancient Romans and the Pont romain (Roman bridge) is still used to cross the town. Incidentally, the ancient Roman engineering has fared better than that of nearby modern bridges in recent floods. The cobblestoned roads are steep, winding and lovely. The ruins of the 12th Century castle are at the top of a steep climb and this panoramic point offers spectacular views below. Reward your efforts at one of the numerous town restaurants and be sure to accompany your meal with one of the excellent local wines.

Beauty and tranquility in the Luberon Valley, Provence

Other towns of interest in the Luberon are Lacoste, Ménerbes, Bonnieux, Isle-la-Sorgue. If you are there in June, you will be lucky enough to see the fields full of lavender. And be sure to dedicate some time to visiting the colourful local markets – towns each have their own market days – come prepared to stock up on all the wonderful, local delicacies. The  only unpleasant moment of this vacation is when it’s time to leave.


Cafayate

Just at 165 kilometers from Salta is this little town called Cafayate. With its 11.785 inhabitants it´s situated at 1683 meter height and surrounded by vineyards. We drove from Cachi to Cafayate in about 5 hours and this was an amazing trip. You see lama´s crossing the street, loads of peppers that have been put [...]