When you visit Hungary, you experience one of the most unique cultures and history in all of Europe.  Budapest is a very underrated capital with the towns of Buda and Pest separated by the Danube river (one of the many experiences worth checking out is the Szechenyi Baths).  In visiting Hungary, I gained a greater appreciation for its people and the beauty of its country.

While many people only visit Budapest, beyond the city limits is a beautiful countryside known for its wines.  One of these towns worth exploring is the town of Recsk.

Recsk is a village just beyond the town of Eger known for its mining of gold, silver, and other metals.  It’s located in the hills of the countryside and has a beautiful view.  The village isn’t very big and only has about 3,000 people.   While Eger is known for its famous Bulls Blood wine, Recsk enjoys its location in wine country as well.  While the village is small, it has a great school for kids and offers a nice view of life away from the bigger cities and towns of Hungary.

Recsk actually has a dark and somber side to its history which will be the focus of next week’s post.  However, a visit to Recsk wouldn’t be complete without an entertaining visit to a winery.

The Kohari Pince is a beautiful winery located on the hillsides of Recsk offering wine tastings and entertainment.  Upon my visit to this winery, the owners of the winery offered bread and a sample of the numerous wines from the area.  The wines in the area featured a number of different grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and others.  The amount of wine served at the Kohari Pince is very generous so keep that in mind if you are driving.

The wine tasting is just a part of the experience here at Kohari Pince as the views looking out over the Hungarian countryside are spectacular.  However, entertainment was also on the menu as we enjoyed the beautiful music of a Roma (gypsy) violinist.  As the wine flowed, people were encouraged to dance to the music and I had the pleasure of dancing with one of our hosts.

The wine tasting ended with lots of wine and dancing on our visit to Recsk.  For such a small town, it has a lot to offer into the cultural aspects of Hungary as well as great views of its countryside.  While enjoying a wine tasting in Recsk is a fun experience, there is more to explore in this area with a tragic piece of Hungarian history.

Wine tasting in Recsk, Hungary

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

Each year, on the third Thursday in November the Beaujolais wine producers release their Beaujolais nouveau. What was once a very local tradition has in recent decades become an international race to bring Beaujolais nouveau to markets around the world. Beaujolais is a small region to the north of Lyon that has been producing wines since Roman times.

To begin with, the wine producers of the area created a ‘wine of the year’ simply to celebrate the end of harvest. Thus the wine was only fermented for a few weeks, and was intended for immediate consumption, certainly not later than a few months. It was not until the establishment of the Beaujolais Nouveau AOC just before the second World War that the release date for this wine was set at 15 December each year. The release date was changed to 15 November in the early 1950s.

Wine producers began to see the marketing potential of the Beaujolais Nouveau, and by the 1970s the release of the Beaujolais Nouveau and the race to get the first bottles to Paris became a national event attracting considerable media attention. The ‘race’ to deliver the first bottle soon spread to other countries in Europe, in the 1980s, and North American and Asia in the 1990s. And, because of the marketability of Beaujolais Nouveau, in 1985 the release date was changed to the third Thursday in November so as to make the most of wine consumption during the weekend that followed.

Not only is the race to get Beaujolais Nouveau to various destinations the focus of much celebration, but today the town of Beaujeu annually organises a four day fête to celebrate the first tasting of Beaujolais Nouveau. The ‘Sarmentelles de Beaujeu’ is a must for wine lovers who enjoy the history and tradition of wine-making; each year, during the third week of November, thousands of people converge on Beaujeu to be the first to taste this wine – making this the European destination for wine buffs. For 2010, the festival starts on the evening of 17 November and lasts on to midnight for the first tastings.

To be amongst the first to taste Beaujolais Nouveau, the perfect excuse for a long weekend break to the south of France in Autumn! There is still time to plan your break.

The photographs used in the post were taken by gilletdaniel during the Sarmentelles de Beaujeu in 2003.

Beaujolais Nouveau Day – 18 November 2010

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

In London, we have the beloved Gordon’s Wine Bar. We adore Gordon’s, and rightly so. It’s a fabulous little spot, one of my favourites in London, despite it being a victim of its own success (and a well-timed Time Out article). But on a recent trip to Tallinn, I found myself in Gloria on Müürivahe. And it might just have pushed Gordon’s off the top of my ‘favourite wine bar’ list. Or, my favourite bars EVER list. It really is that special and it’s my top tip for visiting Estonia.

Gloria itself is actually all manner of things. It’s a fancy restaurant, with a teeny little guesthouse of only six rooms. There’s also a cigar bar. That’s a strange thing about Tallinn (or Estonia in general? I’m not sure). You can’t smoke in bars, but they do have designated cigar bars for that purpose, which is interesting. But, we were here for the bar. Which means going through the shop in the cellar.

And it’s a fabulous shop. If you didn’t know there was a wine bar behind it, you might never find it. And there’s something exciting about that, isn’t there? But we knew it was there, so we heading right for the little archway, not really sure what to expect.

What you get is rather special. Like finding a secret that no one knows about (we were the only ones in there, save for the waitress). There is not bar as such, well not that we found. Just a little maze of beautifully decorated rooms. Old photos, everywhere, lots of wood, lots of candle light. Tiny tables, little secret corners. Perfect for romancing. Or telling ghost stories.

The wine? Fantastic. Excellent glasses too, as you can see from that photo. The spirit glasses are beautiful. There are pricey options, but you can get a decent glass of red for under a fiver. You can get food here as well, but the menu is small. That said, they do use the same kitchen as the fancy restaurant, and it’s certainly much cheaper. The only downside is that the bar is closed on a Sunday (like a lot of bars in Tallinn), meaning I only got to come here once on my weekend away.

I’m already planning my next trip to Tallinn. Gloria wine bar has a lot to do with that. It’s nothing short of amazing. If you’re in this European city, go here.

If you’re planning a trip to Estonia, you can find the best deals at hotels in Tallin using the search box below.

Tallinn’s hidden gem – Gloria Wine Bar

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

One does not usually associate Turkey with the production of top rate wine and one does not expect wines to grow on steep mountain sides, but, as Turkey is always good for a pleasant surprise, you will find both on a day trip to Sirince.

The place is little more than a village, located high up in the mountains about 8km east of the town of Selcuk. Some tours are available in tourist locations such as Kusadasi, Bodrum or Didim, but not many. Just make your way to Selcuk, by car or bus and then take the dolmus to Sirince from the central bus station. In summer, the dolmus departs every hour on the hour and the ride uphill takes about 30 minutes, the return trip about 10!

As soon as the dolmus leaves Selcuk, the narrow road climbs steeper and steeper and you wonder where the wines are. And then, you see them, in terraces glued to the mountains or in the  sheltered valleys in between.

Despite it being July, everything was so green and the air was pleasantly cool after the scorching temperatures in Selcuk and Ephesus. The dolums stops at the tiny village square and from there you have to rely on your feet and good hiking shoes to manoeuvre the cobbled paths winding between the houses, quite a few of which have been converted into romantic inns. And it’s uphill all the way and down again on your way back, so remember to leave sandals and flip flops at home! I saw a few unprepared tourists having a hard time of it.

As soon as you set foot into the village square you find shops and wineries everywhere, offering their products and inviting you to tastings. The wines made here have a long Greek/Turkish Ottoman tradition and are quite famous. A speciality are the many, many fruit wines, some as exotic as banana and pomegranate.

But, it’s not all about wine. The village itself with its Greek and Turkish houses and the view of the surrounding mountains is lovely and very charming to look at. The small bazaar offers  many hand crafted products, among them hand carved wooden figures and spoons and quite elaborate covers for wine bottles as well as ceramics, hand embroidered linen, soaps and creams based on olive oil and many more nice trinkets which make good souvenirs or gifts.

None of the hustle and bustle of an Istanbul bazaar here, a much more sedate pace rules and the vendors hardly ever say more than a polite ‘merhaba’ or buyurun (please, come in).

There is no shortage of restaurants and cafes where you can rest your feet and fill your stomach. Most of them have wine-covered courtyards where you can enjoy your meal and I was delighted to find that many  offer my absolute favourite: ‘gözleme’ which are the paper thin pancakes filled with potatoes, minced meet, spinach and cheese or eaten plain with honey and nuts.

If you are anywhere in the vicinity during your Turkey holiday, my Europe travel tip is to take a day trip to Sirince perhaps combined with a visit to Selcuk.

As I have said in previous posts, I love the Loire Valley – it really is one of the best places to visit in Europe. My previous trips there have been to explore the architectural heritage of the region, the many Loire Valley castles. But, as the area is so well known for many and various great wines, I decided my next trip would be to investigate the viticulture. And this I did last week; well I scratched the surface. I stayed at a charming holiday cottage and spent my days touring numerous vineyards.

With the right people, the vineyards themselves can be very interesting; they are not just row upon row of grape-producing vines. Look closely at the photograph above and you will see dotted about the vineyards small and somewhat quaint buildings. These buildings can be seen everywhere, in various states of repair, or disrepair. A close up of one can be seen in the photograph below. These are maisons de vigne, that once provided shelter for meals and rest to the farmers who worked the vineyards. Now, with more modern farming techniques and less of a reliance on the horse, workers tend to go back to their houses for lunch and to escape the midday heat.

And scattered amongst the more standard vineyards, using more usual techniques are the vineyards of those who experimented, those tried something different. One of those was the successful draper Antoine Cristal. This man, who knew some very influential people and was friends with the French President Georges Clémenceau, is credited with introducing Loire Valley red wines to wider market in the mid to late 1800s. The Loire Valley had until then been known only for its white wines. Cristal is also famous for his Le Clos des Murs, vineyard of walls, pictured below.

The quality of wine is said to be dependant on the growing conditions of the vine itself. Cristal believed the best wine would be produced from vines whose roots were in shade but where the grapes were in direct sun. So he produced his ‘vineyard of walls’, where he placed the root in the shade of the wall, and the vine was then passed through a whole in the wall and allowed to grow in direct sunlight.

Visiting this fascinating and quirky vineyard, and learning of its history, was a real treat and a surprise. When he died Cristal bequeathed his Clos des Murs to a local Hospital, and still today Cristal’s vineyards produce some very fines wines.

As I have said in previous posts, I love the Loire Valley – it really is one of the best places to visit in Europe. My previous trips there have been to explore the architectural heritage of the region, the many castles. But, as the area is so well known for many and various great wines, I decided my next trip would be to investigate the viticulture. And this I did last week; well I scratched the surface. I stayed at a charming holiday cottage and spent my days touring numerous vineyards.

With the right people, the vineyards themselves can be very interesting; they are not just row upon row of grape-producing vines. Look closely at the photograph above and you will see dotted about the vineyards small and somewhat quaint buildings. These buildings can be seen everywhere, in various states of repair, or disrepair. A close up of one can be seen in the photograph below. These are maisons de vigne, that once provided shelter for meals and rest to the farmers who worked the vineyards. Now, with more modern farming techniques and less of a reliance on the horse, workers tend to go back to their houses for lunch and to escape the midday heat.

And scattered amongst the more standard vineyards, using more usual techniques are the vineyards of those who experimented, those tried something different. One of those was the successful draper Antoine Cristal. This man, who knew some very influential people and was friends with the French President Georges Clémenceau, is credited with introducing Loire Valley red wines to wider market in the mid to late 1800s. The Loire Valley had until then been known only for its white wines. Cristal is also famous for his Le Clos des Murs, vineyard of walls, pictured below.

The quality of wine is said to be dependant on the growing conditions of the vine itself. Cristal believed the best wine would be produced from vines whose roots were in shade but where the grapes were in direct sun. So he produced his ‘vineyard of walls’, where he placed the root in the shade of the wall, and the vine was then passed through a whole in the wall and allowed to grow in direct sunlight.

Visiting this fascinating and quirky vineyard, and learning of its history, was a real treat and a surprise. When he died Cristal bequeathed his Clos des Murs to a local Hospital, and still today Cristal’s vineyards produce some very fines wines.

I hate Leicester Square. There is nothing good about this area of Central London. Nothing. I find myself walking the long way ’round it to get to Soho because my hatred of it is so strong. If you want to find yourself surrounded by aimless tourists taking photos of cinemas (why?) and soulless expensive bars, then head here.

But there’s a little secret around Leicester Sqaure that no one tells you about. There are little secret wine bars. Some not even a hop skip and a jump away. Some just a hop. And they’re good. Lovely, in fact. And they’re ruining my ideals of Leicester Square being that gateway to hell. So, if you do end up here (and I don’t know how, but on any trip to London you always will), here are my Europe travel tips for the best bars in the area. The ones that will keep you smiling enough to forget you’re even here.

Cork and Bottle (Cranbourn Street) This is my saving grace in Leicester Square. It’s hidden away, it’s unique, it’s a world away from the movie premiers and screaming children. And it’s lovely. Friendly staff, fantastic wine (and cheap bubbly by the glass) and you’ll stay much longer than you planned.

Le Beaujolais (Litchfield Street): A little too expensive for regular trips (over £11 for two small glasses) but it’s very charming. Staff are friendly and there’s seats outside (albeit not with the greatest view, but you’ll forget you’re so close to Charing Cross road). It wouldn’t be my first choice, but if there was an empty seat on a sunny evening…

Gordon’s (Villiers Street): Every knows about Gordon’s now, don’t they (thanks Time Out, you’ve gone and ruined it), but it’s still my favourite wine bar in the whole of London. Get there early, grab a bottle and nab that table before anyone else can. Don’t you dare think about leaving, if you do I’ll steal your table.

Terroirs (William IV Street): The newest wine bar on the block and already getting quite a reputation. Great wine, good food and all for a decent price is making people flock here. It’s next on my list.

National Portrait Bar (St Martin’s Place): This place is a little gem. Not only do you get to pretend that you’re a little bit cultured, you get a rather lovely view of London from this top floor bar. Opening hours are a bit annoying (the bar is only open when the gallery is and you’ll get kicked out at 6, even on a Saturday) but it’s such a lovely bar. My favourite in the area, and one of my favourite in London.

Flickr image from Paulaloe’s photostream.

I first visited France 21 years ago as a young archaeology student touring the many prehistoric caves in the south west. It really was a trip of a lifetime. But you know, as passionate as I was about my work in archaeology, after a few weeks of visiting numerous archaeological sites even I felt needed a break from prehistory before continuing with a few more weeks of more archaeology. There was only one place to go, the city of Bordeaux. Ever since my first visit, Bordeaux for me is associated with relaxing, people watching and taking in a city atmosphere.

I think Bordeaux is one of France’s most interesting and beautiful cities, and as such it is certainly one of the best places to visit in Europe. Bordeaux is not only the city to visit for wine aficionados on a city break, it is a must for shopaholics and lovers of great architecture.

Perhaps the best area to head for is the Triangle d’Or, the ‘golden triangle’ – this is by far the prettiest and most historic part of the city. The ‘golden triangle’, which is formed by the roads cours de l’Intendance, cours Georges Clemenceau and allées de Tourny, has beautiful pedestrian streets and boulevards with amazing architecture, it is home to designer and couture boutiques, trendy restaurants and bistros, and such famous landmarks as the Grand Théâtre. Rue Ste-Catherine is said to be the longest pedestrian street in Europe – with over 100 boutiques that range from the most luxurious to the cheapest.

As European destinations go, the City of Bordeaux has something for everyone, on all budgets

Argentina is world-renowned for its fine wine and meat, offered to visitors at bargain-basement prices unimaginable in the north of the Americas or in Europe. While the quality of traditional Argentine foodstuffs is high throughout the provinces of this vast country, there are other items which vary dramatically with geographical location. For example, European visitors [...]

I am not a wine drinker. I can’t tell the difference between grapes and I don’t know how to pair wine with whatever I may be eating. Which is why I was a bit skeptical when climbing aboard the 38 at Schottentor in the European city of Vienna. I was heading out to Grinzing, a northern area of Vienna known for its Heurigen. Wine taverns.

About twenty minutes later, having snaked through the city in a trolley, I climbed off in a picturesque part of Vienna. The area is one of those classic Europe destinations, small churches, small houses, small streets. And it’s beautiful. That it sits on a hillside speckled with vineyards only adds to the ambiance. It’s a perfect Vienna day trip.

I wandered around a bit, but quickly found myself drawn to a little Heuriger advertising the new wine that the area is known for with a small sign and the traditional pine bough signifying that the establishment was open. The Heurigen tend to only be open at certain times of the year and so it is important to look for that hanging pine bough.

I don’t know if it was a good year for wine, or if it was a good wine. It didn’t matter. Not with the tree-covered courtyard, good company, and the sun still shining. Wine enthusiasts may be drawn to the potential of the year’s harvest, travel enthusiasts are drawn to the atmosphere.

One warning, when the sun is shining, the place is packed with tourists. Apparently, so much so that the Viennese stay away. Therefore my Europe travel tip if you still want to experience Grinzing and avoid the crowds, pick one of the dirt roads leading up the hills and start walking. The Vienna views are stunning and a perfect way to end a visit to Grinzing.